does anyone know where i can get the round rubber and metal discs this guy used for his custom motor mounts he made putting his 455 olds engine in his 55 olds..i know the bottom block he made just trying to get the top circle ones..thanks
Sure, those are early Ford bisquit type motor mounts, used from 32-48. Speedway and others sell them. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Universal-Bolt-Through-Engine-Mount-Cushion-Kit,1199.html Don
The bolts he has used are not specific for those biscuit rubbers. The proper bolts have a step in the shaft as not to allow over tightening. A squashed rubber will lose its cushion effect.
I agree with Don in post #2 that they look like early Ford. No experience but I have heard good things about the ones from Bob Drake, https://www.bobdrake.com/Categories2.aspx?Id=dd9cf8ab-681b-4f9f-8ea0-f79fa2c2c0e8 You might be better off if you could use the original mounts for the engine. Charlie Stephens
Drake's are far superior and have the metal band in the rubber not washers as the Speedway units. Drakes have been out of stock for over a year. I would like to know where you get the good ones also. I believe Drake is the only source for the correct style of the 37-48 Ford with the 1 1/8" hole. Maybe someone knows of another source.
The Ch***is Engineering mounts are good. Just be sure to get real ones, they have the CE part number molded into them. There are guys on eBay listing CE mounts; but shipping inferior mounts.
+2 on the CE mounts , mine have lasted 11 yrs. .....the ones from speedway split the second year dave
anyone use this http://www.tdperformance.com/site/?d=304&dt=108&Keyword=4514&YearID=&MakeID=&ModelID= i found it at trans dapt... its a universal 455 olds engine swap mounts
3banjo's that's a set up shot. But I didn't use the proper ford bolts as they were too long, I did use the rubber part under the the mount though. Don, this set up is no different to the 'hurst' motor mount that was popular in the 60's. I couldn't use stock mounts as 1. I didn't have any and 2. the sanderson headers wouldn't work on one side with the steering box so it required the headers to be cut at the head flange and be totally made to fit. weight wise, with alloy heads and intake I dropped 200lbs off the original motor and box and yes might be a bit of a distance but it does work. Also this has been road tested as this is my every day car, not my weekend cruiser. I will do a build thread for those olds guys in similar situation.
Joes |Antique Auto ( www.joesantiqueauto.com )still carry the Drakes type mount. I got a set a couple of months ago. They have the built in steel support and lipped base ring. Much better quality than the Speedway ones.
CE mounts # SS-0011 I have I would not use as they don't use a shoulder bolt for the center bolt..Even the paperwork with them do not tell you how much to tighten..The big rubber does have the steel band like oem.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#7145n1/=z0zi3v Chemical-Resistant Vibration-Damping Mount 1650 lb. Capacity Per Mount Each In stock $19.93 Each 7145N1 Capacity per Mount 1,650 lbs. Deflection @ Maximum Capacity 0.22" Durometer 88A Overall Height (A) 1 11/16" OD (B) 2 1/2" ID (C) 1/2" (D) 7/8" (E) 1/4" Made of a specially formulated rubber, mounts withstand exposure to weather and resist oil,antifreeze, and other petroleum-based fluids. Use for long-term service in compression applications such as electric motors, air compressors, and generators.An unthreaded steel insert in the center of the mount provides stability, while steel washers at the top and bottom add support. Temp. range is -40° to 200° F.Rubber is black.
What's the bottom rubber for? I have a set that I'm going to replace the upper rubber for one made of T56 to act as a solid mount.
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