Register now to get rid of these ads!

Motor runs great, but rookie mistake.. Lesson Learned.. again.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 73super, Apr 4, 2011.

  1. 73super
    Joined: Dec 14, 2007
    Posts: 778

    73super
    Member

    Well finally after getting everything setup on my '49 Deluxe ...yesterday was the day to fire up the newly installed Chevy SB. This was a good used motor that I got from another car guy. He said he had pulled it out of his vette.. it was a good motor that he had no problems with. So I cleaned it up a bit, painted it, put all those little pieces on it that didn't come with it (intake, carb, distributor, manifolds.. yadda, yadda). Finally get everything setup, get it installed.. fired it up.. and it is running and sounding so sweet... Very happy with it. OK.. so after letting it run for about 15 minutes I notice oil dripping from in front. Get underneath the car and it looks to be coming from the front of the oil pan.. but then I'm thinking .. more likely from the bottom of the timing cover.. just can't see it at this point. Ugh.. after all that I'm going to have to drop the suspension ('51 chevy) so I can drop the oil pan. I'll have to pull the radiator, pulleys, balancer pulley, just to swap out stinkin' gaskets.

    Lesson learned: From now on, before I install motor/****** I will make sure cover gaskets are new so I don't run across this problem again. Ugh. :mad:

    At this point I've decided to go ahead and finsih the rest of the car, then come back and address this.. pisses me off. Stupid mistake on my part. Hope others can learn from my mistake. I should know better.

    radiator- fan- belt in.jpg
     
  2. I made the same mistake... Been almost 3 years and my frame has a nice coating of rust preventative.
     
  3. Model A John
    Joined: Apr 24, 2008
    Posts: 1,771

    Model A John
    Member
    from wichita ks

    I've had this happen and here's how I fixed it. I cleaned the area where the timing cover meets the pan with lacquer thinner, and then I filled the gap with high quality silicone sealer. Let it set overnight, and it never leaked again. You might try it. Sure would save a lot of work.
     
  4. 53sled
    Joined: Jul 5, 2005
    Posts: 5,817

    53sled
    Member
    from KCMO

    I just pulled mine to replace the rear main. I ran it for months in the donor, then for a few weeks in my car. suddenly, i had a mosquito fogger. go ahead and replace the timing chain while you're in there. $18 insurance.
     
  5. stude_trucks
    Joined: Sep 13, 2007
    Posts: 4,752

    stude_trucks
    Member

    At least it's fixable. Some motors leak straight from the factory.
     
  6. unkledaddy
    Joined: Jul 21, 2006
    Posts: 2,865

    unkledaddy
    Member

    I have also used this method, and it worked for me too.
     
  7. ibarodder
    Joined: Oct 25, 2004
    Posts: 223

    ibarodder
    Member

    did you change the oil pan? chevy used two different size front oil pan to timing chain cover seals. you may have used a thin one and should have used a thick one ?
     
  8. AAAAH, mint green, 73super, Make sure its not coming from the crank seal before going to all the trouble of sealing the pan. Check the balancer for a groove and either replace the balancer or use a "speedy sleeve" (yes they do work).
     
  9. Steves32
    Joined: Aug 28, 2007
    Posts: 1,257

    Steves32
    Member
    from So Cal

    Before you blame the pan or timing cover- take a look at front p***enger side of block where pad is for front motor mounts. The upper threaded hole is used for holding up the fuel pump push rod. If you are running side mounts & didn't install a short bolt to seal the opening- it will leak out oil.
     
  10. 73super
    Joined: Dec 14, 2007
    Posts: 778

    73super
    Member


    No.. no swap out.
     
  11. 1971BB427
    Joined: Mar 6, 2010
    Posts: 9,820

    1971BB427
    Member
    from Oregon

    If you end up having to pull the pan, wouldn't it be easier to take the engine back out than to pull all the suspension apart? Engines seem to come out much easier than suspension for me!
     
  12. R Frederick
    Joined: Mar 30, 2009
    Posts: 2,658

    R Frederick
    Member
    from illinois

    Ever notice a Chevy smallblocks in stories come from Corvettes?:confused:
     
  13. banginona40
    Joined: Mar 5, 2007
    Posts: 779

    banginona40
    Member

    I had the same problem. There is a product, I think Loc***e but not sure that you spray into problem area while warm. Then start engine, as engine warms up product is ****ed into gaps. It worked surprisingly well, and no more leak. I gave the remains of the can to a friend to use on his Triumph motorcycle who also had great results.
     
  14. 73super
    Joined: Dec 14, 2007
    Posts: 778

    73super
    Member

    Much easier to drop front suspension.. a few bolts, and steering arm and you're good to go.
     
  15. 66cayne
    Joined: Mar 2, 2009
    Posts: 130

    66cayne
    Member

    YES, what he said, but use a SHORT bolt, a long bolt will bind the pump rod. Also, why not just drop the front of the pan slightly (remove the front pan bolts and lossen the others down the sides, pry the front corners loose with a screwdriver) and shoot a dab of silicone sealer in each corner, where the timing chain gasket meets the corners of the pan. That is where they typically leak. No need to pull the whole thing out to do that.
     
  16. Several very good points to consider here. I personally always change the oil pan gasket, timing cover gaskets as well as the front and rear seals AND the timing chain whenever I use an old "good running" engine (and, as has been mentioned, check the condition of the balancer where it rubs against the seal).

    I have also made two other mistakes that have been mentioned here as well ... I had a leak from one of the holes at the front, p***enger side of the engine (as mentioned by someone else here, it must have a short bolt in it or it will leak ... I had a hell of a time figuring that leak out, to be honest it was actually the wife who suggested the possibility of it leaking from there, I had no idea it wasn't just a blind hole) and I have also installed the thin oil pan-timing cover gasket when I needed the thick one (big leak there too).
     
  17. michev
    Joined: Aug 22, 2010
    Posts: 96

    michev
    Member

    Try this if the leak is coming from where the timing cover meets the pan. Clean the area good with brake clean,then apply silicone to the area. Use your shop vac hose and put it in the oil fill plug and turn it on. The shop vac will pull a vacuum in the engine pulling the silicone into any small opening around the leak.
     
  18. davidbistolas
    Joined: May 21, 2010
    Posts: 960

    davidbistolas
    Member


    Yeah- what most people don't know is that the first corvette each year would go to the engine ***embly plant where every sbc would be installed, and then pulled, crated and shipped to the other factories.

    That's how come EVERY sbc is a factory corvette motor.
     
  19. JOECOOL
    Joined: Jan 13, 2004
    Posts: 2,769

    JOECOOL
    Member

    I have done two of these deals for other people over the years, they both had replaced valve covers with no PVC function. The crankcase was pressurizing and when we hooked a PVC up they both stopped leaking. Best of luck.
     
  20. saints
    Joined: Dec 15, 2008
    Posts: 553

    saints
    Member

    yep when ever I get a engine out I buy a gasket set and install all I can new and it gives me a chance to peek at the engine so i know what is going on
     
  21. patrick66
    Joined: May 14, 2008
    Posts: 4,780

    patrick66
    Member

    That's funny! I just figured every single SBC engine build code is for Corvettes!
     
  22. 73super
    Joined: Dec 14, 2007
    Posts: 778

    73super
    Member

    I think I'll try a few of these "quickie" remedies before going further.. really don't have anything to lose, but more oil that is. Just don't know how confident I'd be for a long trip. Ahh we'll see. Thanks for all the ideas... still feel stupid that I didn't change out those gaskets.. argh.
     
  23. lothiandon1940
    Joined: May 24, 2007
    Posts: 32,411

    lothiandon1940
    Member

    ...Does anyone know the name of this Loc***e product or if it's not Loc***e, who does make it and what is it called?..Many thanks, Don.:)
     
  24. lothiandon1940
    Joined: May 24, 2007
    Posts: 32,411

    lothiandon1940
    Member

    Anybody?.....Thanks.
     
  25. lothiandon1940
    Joined: May 24, 2007
    Posts: 32,411

    lothiandon1940
    Member

    Anybody? Nobody? Anyone familiar with this product?...Thanks.
     
  26. lothiandon1940
    Joined: May 24, 2007
    Posts: 32,411

    lothiandon1940
    Member

  27. tfeverfred
    Joined: Nov 11, 2006
    Posts: 15,788

    tfeverfred
    Member Emeritus

    Well, the latest BIG NEW thing is "Right Stuff" by Permatex. There's a thread about it.
     
  28. lothiandon1940
    Joined: May 24, 2007
    Posts: 32,411

    lothiandon1940
    Member

  29. arkiehotrods
    Joined: Mar 9, 2006
    Posts: 6,802

    arkiehotrods
    Member

    I just keep a drip pan under my SBC. :)
     
  30. belair
    Joined: Jul 10, 2006
    Posts: 9,036

    belair
    Member

    Clever
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.