im about to go mounting a fuse box in my 38 chevy 1/2 ton pu..because of the wind out screen and the cowl vent im expecting some leaks,here and there .spec SBC ,100A alternator ,spal electric fan.like to see how others approached this in similar vehicles.painless 12 circuit pu harness #10104.approx 4 inch wide 4 1/2 deep.like to keep it dry
There's plenty of room on the firewall of those things, mount it up high to the side of the cowl vent (or fix the leaks, looking at where you are from you might be doing that anyway!). Just remember when it's time to trouble shoot the electrical system, you don't want to be a contortionist to change a fuse. You could also mount it under the seat if you are using a stock frame, there's a ton of room there too.
I mounted my Painless in a 36 Chev P/U on the upper left corner of the firewall.....also had crank out windshield & working cowl vent, no issues
I recently rewired my 37 with Painless #10201. I mounted the fuse panel on the upper left area of the firewall (as seen from the driver's seat). It's out of the way, but still plenty accessible. As a bonus, right below that spot is a nice oval hole, with a belled edge, in the foot board panel, which made a nice wiring harness exit to the engine compartment.
on the 38 chevy pu i hot rodded a couple years ago, i mounted the fuse panels, to a plate that was mounted to the pedal brackets. it was to the left of the column and angled down, toward the firewall. this allowed easy access to fuses.
in my 36 i used a 90.s ford fuse panel bracket they bolt flat to the bottom of the dash and fold down
thanks for your replies/suggestions.i unbolted the dash things are much clearer now .im going to mount it on the left side of the dash,there is lots of room there near the mounting brackets for the brakes.on the right hand side id like to keep the glove box working. any potential leaks are now visible .a tube of sealant will sort that out. only other issue is to replace the seal around the windscreen and join it off centre away from the winder mechanism..i will need to modify the handle for the vent to keep that working.im thinking of two lights in the footwells activated by a door switch, as well as an interior light.in the event of fuse trouble at night be easier seeing what your doing.
made a plate to mount the fuse box today using the dimensions I can get a stainless one laser cut.drilled and tapped 1/4unc to use Harley rubber blocks..box should be well tucked away here.the Harley mountings are 1inch diameter and 1 inch high plus thread. ill be painting up pedal and brackets as I go. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/finishing-off-my-38-chevee-project.989323/ .
nice! i can't tell from the photos, but did you leave room for the kick panel to slide in next to it?
good question I was thinking about the kick panel this morning and put a straight edge to it but didn't think in those terms thanx for the reminder bud must have got side tracked. .i can move the fusebox to the right within the bracket a little if I need to. what material are the kick panels normally made from,1/8 or 1/4 marine plywood, aluminium ?
1/8" material is all that is needed. i used a cardboard material on my truck available at upholstery shops. on my car i used pvc plastic sheet i also got from my upholsterer. those panels are available from "chevys of the '40s" or any of the truck suppliers cut to size and reasonably priced.