Technical Mounting a Removable Fiberglass Hood Scoop

Alright I went back re read (although I still don't understand the shaker part) you want me to remove the flange and move it to the inside of the scoop. Now THAT I can agree on and was one of the first things I said to myself when I unboxed it, why didn't they make the flange on the inside to hide the hardware.
I'm sure it had something to do with the couple of "super duty" scoops I had in the garage that were to short to cover a hole for 2x4's, that's the way they are made.

 

Thanks, I can definitely use those on my Harley seat I need to attach the leather to, I'll need to research sizes and see how big the shank is to possibly use on the scoop too.

 

Just say'n... This stuff is pretty good/ 3M Velcro the aluminum plate flex's when pulled off... I would make the scoop fit the opening to your liking, believing you don't want to disturb The paint.

 

I see where some of the confusion comes from on my suggestion for a "shaker", I got tunnel vision thinking you didn't want to ruin the paint job. My thought was a shaker but have it float ABOVE the hood a little. I agree their are better way but just brain storming other options!

 

"why didn't they make the flange on the inside to hide the hardware."
Your my age so you probable already know this but back in the day it "was the way to do it", it was "just normal" to quickly mount anything with exposed mounting. Than came along Codington and smoothed everything out and that became the flavor of the week. At first I thought why doesn't swade hide the mounting but period correct (if that's important or not) would dictate exposed. Funny how the thought process works!

 

How about drilling some keyhole slots in the hood and JB welding some short screws to the bottom of the scoop. Then you could just drop it in and slide it back.

 

"swade41, post: 13549563, member: 2398"]Alright I went back re read (although I still don't understand the shaker part) you want me to remove the flange and move it to the inside of the scoop. Now THAT I can agree on and was one of the first things I said to myself when I unboxed it, why didn't they make the flange on the inside to hide the hardware.
I'm sure it had something to do with the couple of "super duty" scoops I had in the garage that were to short to cover a hole for 2x4's, that's the way they are made.[/QUOTE]




Hello S,
With your building skills, couldn't you cut down the new, big scoop so the outside flange is now under the lip of the hood, all around? Then all you would need is to get a nice trim piece all around the hole and screw everything together. The hood hole would still remain the same and the great looking paint would not have to be altered. If you were the one that painted that great looking pattern, now the modified hood scoop will have to be sanded anyway. So, now the same pattern could be painted on the new, modified scoop to make it uniform and look like it was always there.

For future scoops, the original hole is still the same size. The trim piece is still going all around the hole with any new scoops you might want to add later on in other projects. The hole will then always look finished, regardless of which scoop is used. The same holes now, have a multiple purpose.

Jnaki
Having worked with fibergl*** plenty of times, I know it can be smoothed out. It can also be matched to look exactly as the original look, but with your modifications. Good luck on your project...YRMV

SORRY THAT EARLIER BLURB WAS A MISTAKE...

 

papajohn, In my eyes you have a good idea but I don't see how that could be done with the "waves" in the mounting flanges, those need to be corrected no matter what swade does. JMO

 

I have done quite a bit of fibergl*** work over the years and if it were me...I would likely build a new lip on the scoop that went up under so the hardware could be hidden and so it didn't put holes further out from the cutout in the hood. Then, you could also mold some nuts or studs into the scoop so the only showing hardware would be from underneath. Heck, you could even build the flange back toward the windshield if there was enough clearance for opening the hood to fill the gap. And, you would have small holes left near the cutout when not on or with a smaller scoop.

 

That is pretty much what I did on these fibergl*** parts. I just built a mounting flange onto the part which also lets you contour it nicely to the hood.

 

After sleeping on it I definitely think I'm moving the flange under the scoop, that would eliminate the current wonky flange and also eliminate the need to paint the flange to match the hood.
On that black surfer scoop I cut that in half and made it taller to hold bigger air cleaners and to stick out of the hood exactly where I wanted it, I also gl***ed in 1/4-20 studs so it would bolt to a base that attached to the carbs.
I think I would like to make a sheetmetal flange with studs welded to the bottom of the flange to mount to the hood. In the past I have drilled a few 7/16's holes in the metal so the fibergl*** could come up through the holes and surround both sides of the metal sandwiching it in between.
The scoop has to slide back because it just catches the rear air cleaner as shown, so the front will be close to covering the hole, but I think it'll look fine. I did paint the car but believe me it's nothing fancy, more interested in going than showing, the scoop I would just paint white, no colors or anything added.
When I was thinking about that flange being on the outside I bet it was built that way for ease of releasing it from the mold. If it was on the inside how would they get it off the mold ? I've had that scoop clamped to a piece of plywood for 6 months, the flange lays flat with the clamps but springs right back once the clamps are removed, I've had some results in the past doing this and adding a little heat, but this one is stubborn.
This is one of the other scoops and how close the rear air cleaner is to cowl, the reason I need to slide the scoop back.

 

I agree! It holds "until-the-proverbial-cow-comes-home"!
6sally6

 

You know now if I made a flange like this I could gl*** it to the inside sides of the scoop and just slide it over the hood from the back of the hood going forward. The hood would be captured between the double flange, maybe glue some felt onto it so it wouldn't scratch up the hood sliding it.

 

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Why didn't you say that to begin with?!
I like it!! (and your avatars hooterz)!
6sally6

 

That was before you tried the "idiotic nonsense" that you are doing now with temporarily attaching a sail with fly paper. Have a good one, I do not need your at***ude for trying to help.

 

Man, I'm going cross eyed lining this thing up, my front end is shifted to the right a bit (how it was cut in the 60's) so lining it up off the windshield center is a bit out the window. We all know that sometimes the visual trumps the measuring tape on these round items, but I'm getting close after 4 hrs...ha ha


Almost like it's pulling the wheels

 

I was trying to line it up and leave the back flange with a V in it to keep it lined up but I ended up just cutting the whole flange off. I decided I would just make a single flange and bolt it to the hood, so next will be making a flange.

 

Getting close, the shape is there just need to fine tune it a bit more before the bodywork and paint.

 

You can do better than that ..... Bostik "Simson ISR 70-03" hybrid urethane glue.
245 psi tensile strength and 360 psi shear strength.

And cheap !!!
The excess can be cleaned off with "wax and grease remover"

We use this to glue alloy decks onto steel framed trailers. We're also glued a racing car together with it. [and also Mirrors to windshields]

You will destroy the scoop before the glue let's go
here is 2 powder coated pieces of steel we glued together [then used a crowbar to separate]
The glue ripped the powder coating off the steel



The glue stays flexible! Kerry even repaired his flip-flops with the stuff

 

I like it, use the hardware of your choice to attach and you got a great looking removable scoop.

 

I agree with the "inside flange" plan.
I didn't say anything because I thought you wanted to use what you had, but for your situation, wanting and needing a scoop, these are the guys that have it all. (Note the second scoop from the top) You may find another type that rings your chimes better than what you have at the moment...........
http://www.up22.com/scoopw3.htm#SC-110-3

 

They definitely have the flange thing in check, to bad they didn't have this scoop I have because I really like it, could've saved me some work.

 

Any Bostik seller in the USA [Bostik is a USA company]
https://www.ellsworth.com/products/...yl-modified-polymer-sealant-gray-290-ml-tube/

You use a caulking gun.

If you have some time , Read this [on Ryan's sister site]
Kerry did a "trailer build" thread there showing the deck being glued on to the frame
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=268273

 

This is also a really strong adhesive, my friend owns a ch***is shop and has glued many pieces of fibergl*** to steel or aluminum and it stays on at over 200 mph on many occasions.
But I want a REMOVABLE scoop.

 

I didn't realize it has been a year, man, time sure flies by, but I spent the last week doing the body work and painting the scoop. I battled non glossy paint even though it says it's gloss white, orange peel and the dreaded Rustoleum clear bad reaction over Rustoleum paint, damn **** should've been glossy to start with.
It matches the car and covers the hole that the scoop didn't cover, so off to bigger and better things.
Look at this texture I was left with, prior to the clear it was wet sanded with 800 grit and was nice and smooth



After wet sand with 1000 grit and buffed by hand, the machine kept trying to launch the scoop into orbit



And how it fits



And a look back to what I started with

 

What are the dimensions of that scoop? I'm looking for one that's large enough for a 14" air cleaner to fit inside.

 

I make and sell a similar scoop on ebay I use composite blocks with hanger bolts to make it a bolt-on