Hot Rods Moving a Model A RPU Body Backwards

I had to put a serious recess in the firewall of my '28 RPU and notch the right-rear header tube but still have a challenge running the steering shaft past the back corner of the left-hand flathead head (seems like someone would make a flexible steering shaft).

The engine is already just about as far forward as I can move it without running into lower-radiator-hose problems.

It occurred to me that if I move the body backwards about 1.5" I could clear the right-rear header tube, have an easier path to the steering box, and might be able to use an un-recessed firewall. This would also have the very welcome effect of moving the pedals and shifter relatively forward for more leg room.

That means that I must adjust the body mounts, drill a few holes in the frame, fabricate new bed mounts, and lengthen the radiator-support and throttle rods. It also means that I would have to make modifications if I ever wish to run a hood and fenders.

My frame has been lengthened 7.5" for a spring-behind rear end, and has the Tardel Z, so mounts for the bed will have to be fabricated anyway.

Am I missing anything serious?

 

Keep in mind moving the cab rearward will lengthen your hood, which can make a Model A look disproportionate if its too long, especially with the short RPU cab.

Are you using an 8BA? Switching to the early style water pumps and distributor will reduce the overall engine length. You shouldn't need to notch the firewall with an early 24-stud.

An alternative might be to raise the engine up a bit so your shaft fits under the head.

 

Pictures please.

 

If you posted some pictures with a bit of luck someone would photoshop it for you with the cab moved back so you would get an idea how it would look. With reference to what "chickenridgerods" has said.

 

There is a flex shaft. I think they were from a Ford Pinto of the 70’s.

 

Pics off steering & head needed , with out where Just Guessing,
On a "A" I did made the column 3 inch longer to get the u joint lower then head & header tube

 

Just my thoughts because you mentioned “if I wish to run a hood and fenders..” implies no hood and fenderless.
I’d think it would take a pretty keen eye to spot that 1.5 inches with no hood or fenders.
Another thing I recall from the FordBarn days, was on a FH V8 in stock form, dyno result showed little to no gains. I’m almost sure it by a member there “JWL” who did an amazing amount of testing and wrote a book called “Flathead Facts” or similar.

 

Thanks for the replies.

There's not really much to see in pix.

I could ease the mentioned problems by moving the engine forward an inch or so, but that would require lengthening the torque tube and driveshaft, or by dropping the engine an inch or two, but that would require reworking the F1 center crossmember. Not anxious to re-open those projects; my progress has been monumentally slow already.

I've already moved the cab back nearly two inches. It doesn't look odd, and gives the firewall, steering, and pedal benefits mentioned in my original post. But before bolting it down, I posted to see if there is any calamity I'm not considering.