Mustang II front end

Anyone have any thoughts on who makes the best product. Thinking about putting one under my 46 chevy pickup..seen them from $1300 to over three grand..is there a decent one for about $2000.....thanks

 

I'm going to send you a PM.

 

Fatman..................... maybe others...................... if you can find a GM '64-'67 Chevelle, GTO, Cutlass, etc. front clip they ride and handle a hole lot better than the MII. JMO..............

 

well, i just ordered a heidts for one of my ramblers.
already have one in my coupe
after putting in a couple of street rod engineering for people, there won't be a third...
i like chassis engineering too.

 

I but a heidts under my 40 ford pick up. It was easy to put in and drives great.

 

Here is a pic of a Mustang II front end under a 46. The thing about these trucks is even with the fat fenders, they are still a fairly narrow truck. I've seen plenty of metric chassis, camaro subs, etc put under these and the tires practically stick out of the fenders. I love the fact that mine tuck so nicely under it and driving it everywhere now I've only ever rubbed the nose once on a speedbump and the tires never rub the fenders. It drives like a freakin sports car...
And for what its worth, mine is a stock crossmember I cut out of a 74 Pinto, Heidts 5/8" Narrowed upper control arms and speedway springs.

Scot

 

By the way, total investment on this front end set up is under 600 bucks, not including the new Flaming river rack I just had to buy because my stock one had some spooky play in it...


125 bucks for stock front end, complete from wrecking yard
250 for pair upper control arms from speedway
90 bucks for springs
125 for front end rebuild kit

 

"'64-'67 GTO, front clip" Please don't.
I know he meant Lamans or Tempest but I still cringed a little. I guess I could just see a '64 Goat with jack stands at the front of the doors and the front of the frame lopped off.

But, if I look at it from the darkside; that would make lots of room for a nice streight axle and a set of rails set way up high.

Mmmmmmm Gaaaaaser

 

i was actually thinkin of starting the same thread because i made some calls and Walton fabrication had by far the best price for a hub to hub ultra low bagged mII, 1950$ was their quote, and with the motor mounts and transmission cross member, 2275$ . so im gonna buy it, but i'd like to know if anyone on here as bought their kit and installed it on a 51 chevy car??
i looked at Fatman and their kit for bags starts at almost 3000$ its a little bit too pricey for my budget right now. thanx!

p.s. i just realized i was kinda hijacking your thread! not intended!!!!
sorry!

 

Nope, I meant Chevelle, GTO, Cutlass, GM clips! That'a all we ever used before the MII. Sounds ugly now I know but all were a dime a dozen around here anyway. A clip with power steering from a wrecking yard started out at $100 complete, cut off ready to pick up. A few years later the price went to $250, $400 & on. I would buy up all the 4 doors I could find running or not for around $500 or less, if it ran I would use the SB, rear end, trans, any parts I could salvage. It's more work 4 sure but if you ever rode in a properly GM clipped out truck and than rode in a MII you wouldn't pick the MII. Now there are more company's making disc brake kits, bigger sway bars, rebuild kits to make the GM even better than it was when stock. I once bought a wrecked '75 Vette and installed the motor, 4 speed & the front clip on my '50 Chev P/U, it is still running around after 25+ years.........

 

has anyone used the Jim Weimer Kit???

 

That's the one I sell the most of.
Grumpy used one on his Suburban...
can't think of others HAMB names..

 

does anyone know, or can you measure, the distance from the outside of the frame to the hub surface on a mustang II suspension. I am thinking that this is the route that I will be going on the econoline once I get into it. But in order to do this I am going to have to narrow the existing frame rails and I would like to get a general idea of how much it is going to be narrowed to see if it is going to be possible.

Thanks,
Chad

 

jim weimer sold out a few yrs back, and they kept the name. really nice parts. small business but good customer service.

 

if you use the Welder Series kit, you can cut the CM as required to fit the frame

 

Yeah, it isn't so much the crossmember that I am worried about. I know I am going to have to narrow the rails some, i just don't know how much. In order to get the econline as low as I want I need the total width of the front end (wheels and tires included) to be no more than 64".

So if it is 12" from the frame to the mounting surface on the mustang II clip and there is 5" front spacing on the wheel/tire combo including the tire then that is 17" per side from the outside of the frame to the outside of the wheel/tire combo or 34" total. That means that the frame rails would be 30" from outside to outside to be a total of 64" wide width. That is what I am trying to work out right now. If I can get the measurement from the front clip and I am looking into the wheel and tire combo I want to run then I can work out how much work this is going to turn into.

Does that make sense?

Thanks,
Chad

 

if you want to go fatman were a daeler
as wellas a chassis enginering daeler

 

fatmans are 56 1/2", 58 1/2", and 60 1/2" hub to hub

 

Thanks for those measurements.

So how wide for each of those hub to hub measurements is the frame from outside to outside? the reason i am looking for that particular measurement is because to meet my needs i may have to narrow that hub to hub a little bit more than that. I need to see where they will end up on the econoline to see if it is even going to be possible with all the other stuff in the way.

 

I sell Jim Weimer Hub to Hub MUST II setups... contact me for price and details. Good product at a great price.

 

Stock M2 is about 24" inside the rails. The rails are 2" thick each, which you end up removing so inside hat to hat is approx 28". This is on a stock front end that has a track of 56 1/2 inches. This is all approx from memory so double check.

Don't know how close the kits would be to this, but I'm assuming those measurements would be close. Hope this helps.........

 

That does help. That would mean that from the frame to the hub would be about 14".

I have a few calls in to some of the manufactures to get their measurement specs as well.

Thanks,
Chad

 

here's a picture of mine with custom made cross members in my 41

 

if it's any help, a 62-67 chevyII heidts crossmember is 28" between the frame rails.
at least that's what mine measures...

 

Heidts makes an economy kit. Its great for full fendered. The a frames are made from 3/16 steel its a good kit for short money.

 

I boxed and finish welded one today actually. They make a real nice kit. Good thick plate, quality welds, easy to install.
I am also set up as a dealer if you want one. I can do the same price or better as the other guy who chimed in on the JW rod Garage kit.
I go with stainless steel control arms on all the ones I do for myself. Lot easier to keep clean, no worries about paint chips and looks bad ass.