Hi Guy`s I need any info on setting the caster angle on my Mustang two front suspension. I have used a TCI kit on my 35 Ford pk up & have got the factory setting info., but I thought the caster angle was set up in the TCI top towers the way they are made , but I understand that you adjust the the top arms in order to get the correct angle, Thank you for reading.......Cheer`s Bri...
If you have the tubular upper a-arms with the rod ends, you adjust the caster, and camber by screwing the rod ends in or out. The top towers only have the angle in them for the anti-dive.
If you have the 204-2352-00, the upper a-frames are able to slide in and out. The camber is set by sliding the a-frame straight in and out from the centerline of the vehicle. The caster is set by sliding the front in or out while sliding the back the other direction. In otherwards changing the angular relation of the line a-frame bolts to the centerline of the car. You can set it close with an angle level. If you want to be accurate, you should either have a set of caster-camber guages or take it to an alignment shop.
Thank you, that answers my question regarding the top towers ( Anti Dive ) I thought that angle was set for the caster. now I know. Ive posted a pic of the arms I have. So in order to get my caster angle I put a slight twist on the top arm which will make the spindel lean back 3 to 5 degrees, ...........
You got it! I'd prefer to see the lower a-arms, and tie rods to be level at ride height, and use a 2" drop spindle to get the drop, but what you have will work.
Yeah, I cut to much off the springs but I now have fitted a pair of Mustang Springs from Kennys Hot Rod shop & they are set up for the 35 Ford truck & now the bottom arms will be level when I fit the pk up bed & fenders. Ive also fitted 2" lowered spindels., also have TCI parallel leaf springs on the rear. Can`t wait to go cruzin in this truck it is the best Rod Ive built & should drive real nice. Thanks for the info Guy`s........Cheer`s Bri...
FWIW, I've seen two examples recently where there were no cross marks made in the area of the top hats where the upper A arms bolt. With that area left smooth, the A arm shafts had nothing to grab onto and they slipped inward. When I saw that, I remembered that years ago when I installed the MII on my '40, the instructions said to take a chisel and make some cross marks. I did an emergency repair on one of the cars I saw with the slipped shafts by getting some big external lock washers to rest on the shoulder of the adjustment bolts underneath just to get it home.
36 Tbird I did note that the nuts that fastern the A arms are sarrated on the bottom so when you tighten them they will bite into the top towers, when I have finally made the caster & camber adjustment I was going to mig some plates across the adjustment slots to stop any movement. Any comments on this guy`s...........
get heavier weighted springs for suer. Your arms look sacked out and it will drive very wierd. Very jumpy, pulling you all over the road and what not.
If you have some room between the slots to the inside edge of the spring towers you could drill something like a 3/8" hole in-line of each slot, then you could take some steel bar, **** it up against the pivot bar, make a mark in the steel bar where you drilled the 3/8" hole in the spring tower, drill the steel bar then bolt it in place.
I here what your saying matey & I have changed the springs & now the bottom arms are slightly the other way so when I put the bed on & fenders the arms will be level.........
"Tbird I did note that the nuts that fastern the A arms are sarrated on the bottom so when you tighten them they will bite into the top towers," That's just it, they don't bite into the top towers because rodders paint the **** out of everything and all that there is to bite into is paint. How hard do you thing you need to torque down the upper serrated arms to get them to bite and mark the spot you want them to lock into? Good luck with that! Sorry I mentioned it. Later, Lou
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