I did it the easy way, on my edsel...put a Chevy tank and sender in, and used a label maker to make it say FULL on the left, and EMPTY on the right.
I am putting a Mustang tank in my car (51 Chevy) and a 57 Chevy tank in a friends Unibody Ford truck (long story). We bought new senders for both and I swapped the sender units/wiring/float/arm assemblies between the senders. I have about $75 in the pair of senders. Both operate their respective gauges just fine. Just one more option if you are handy at cutting up perfectly good brand new sending units.
Ok I decided to reply because like many others in this thread and some new ones are still needing a solution. Well there are so many fuel link module out there now you'll have to research the best price. The fuel link interface module I bought will convert any fuel sender and gage combination. It even has a low fuel warning light you can wire up along with several other wonderful features like needle bouncing. Here is a link to one I found. Keep in mind most aftermarket gage and cluster brands offer some type of fuel link module so their gage will interface with most all vehicles. Enjoy I've been using this module on most of my restorations for several years now without issue. Neatest part is having a low fuel light warning lamp like modern cars http://www.yogisinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=results/category_id=3725/mode=cat/cat3725.htm
I realize this is an old thread, but in case someone is experiencing the same problem (like me), Speedway and Summit Racing sell a sending unit interface module that allows you to use any guage with any sending unit. $100.