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Projects My 1929 coupe build thread....Lots of question from a first timer

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by saints, Jan 15, 2010.

  1. saints
    Joined: Dec 15, 2008
    Posts: 553

    saints
    Member

    Well this will be my first coupe build and I’m starting with just a body and a frame….Ok have you ever heard the saying “it takes a village” well its going to take a forum to get me going…..My dad has helped my on all of my builds but this will be his first time ever being around a coupe….he was a hot rodder during the 69 muscle car boom so his knowledge is limited as well……..So is there any books I could buy to help out….I’ve already put a order in to Howells for some panels
    Here is what I’m working with
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    Also here is what I want to do with it
    Banjo rear(I think out of a 40’s), rear buggy spring, wheels 15” wires, frame stock, 30’s wishbone(split), 30’s I beam, spindle ????, brakes juice self energizing, posi spring, flat head engine, steering box????, steering wheel 40’s, 4” chop
    Now do I steel structure it or do I use wood…..right now its real flimsy and the body needs some lower patches……I’m wondering what I need to do to true up the body so I don’t end up welding one patch panel lower than I should and getting everything f up….should I get a wood top to true it up???....
    If your not a patience person this wont be your thread to follow Ill have a lot of questions some dumb and some well probably dumb to some…Thanks in advance and ill keep you updated
     
  2. Buy the Bishop/Tardel book on "How to build a traditional Hot Rod". Good book, lots of info. Also check and search the HAMB, on various similar builds.
     
  3. 6berry
    Joined: Apr 12, 2009
    Posts: 352

    6berry
    Member

    A good thing to do is weld in some temp steel braces across the body. idk about any books for it but theres definitely some. I would say weld in the patch panels before u cut the top off
     
  4. 64Cyclone
    Joined: Aug 30, 2009
    Posts: 1,496

    64Cyclone
    Member

    +1000000. That is a good book and there is a wealth of information here. Search is your friend. Good luck!
     
  5. youngrodder1929
    Joined: May 28, 2006
    Posts: 491

    youngrodder1929
    Member

    i 3rd the bishop tardel book motion i barowed it off 29bowtie 3years ago still refer to almost daily it might be time to buy him a new one lol
     
  6. Tank
    Joined: Nov 8, 2002
    Posts: 749

    Tank
    Member

    I'll 4th the Bishop and Tardel book! A wealth of info crammed between those pages! Oh, and rethink the 15" wheel idea.... 16's are way more traditional.
     
  7. saints
    Joined: Dec 15, 2008
    Posts: 553

    saints
    Member

    do you think it would be wise to tack weld the doors in there position while welding in panels and getting the body trued up.....
     
  8. that body is a great start..i would love to have it
     
  9. The37Kid
    Joined: Apr 30, 2004
    Posts: 32,525

    The37Kid
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Good start! I'd get a Snyders catalog and buy a wood kit first, AND the wood body blocks and frame to body bolt kit. Weld up the subrails were the bolts have pulled through. Check the door hinges, replace the pins if loose. This should get things squared up so you can install patch panels. I'd buy the full cowl panels rather than patch what is there. Good luck, keep us updated, and ask questions.
     
  10. hotrodtom
    Joined: Apr 14, 2005
    Posts: 231

    hotrodtom
    Member

    Snyders, Bratton's, Mike's A-Fordable, Bert's in Denver, Sacramento Vintage Ford -- all are good. Les Andrews' 3-volume set is mostly for Model A mechanical stuff but has a lot of good stuff about body mounts and frame and suspensions too. A Model A frame will need boxing if you use a V8, even a flathead. Looks like a great start for a project. Keep us posted,
    Fearless
     
  11. saints
    Joined: Dec 15, 2008
    Posts: 553

    saints
    Member

    Thanks I was thinking I would get the top wood kit in first it has some tears in the sheet metal
     
  12. kirby1374
    Joined: Dec 16, 2008
    Posts: 427

    kirby1374
    Member

    you will need the body wood kit too
     
  13. saints
    Joined: Dec 15, 2008
    Posts: 553

    saints
    Member

    Just received the how to build a traditional hot rod book and it is awesome to say the least……I have some money from my tax return and am looking for a power plant I ran across a listing this guy has:
    1947 Cadillac Series 61 Motor With Transmission $500

    1948 Cadillac Series 62 Without Transmission $500

    Now there(cadillac) flatheads are they harder to find parts for or are they the same as the regular ford flatties…..I promise Im not retarded but I hate being surprised
    And are these a ok engine or should I hold out for a 49 flathead
     
  14. Wait for the Ford flattie. The Cad motor is cool but way expensive to hotrod and speed parts are way harder to find.
     
  15. 55chevr
    Joined: Jul 12, 2008
    Posts: 985

    55chevr
    Member

    stick with Ford in a Ford if you want to go with flatheads ... dont even get a Lincoln ... there are virtually no hot rod parts around for these engines and you will have to make everything. I mean like machine shop make everything.
     
  16. Corn Fed
    Joined: May 16, 2002
    Posts: 3,429

    Corn Fed
    Member

    Building a car is just like building a house. You need a good foundation first. So before you tackle anything on the body get your frame square and nice and solid. You will want to put the body bolted onto it using the correct blocks and do your work there. You may need to put some shims under the blocks or thin them out a little. After the body is mounted, get it square (use some temporary cross braces) and get the doors to fit (open close) good. Then replace lower sheet metal as needed. After the bottom end is solid, you can chop the top. After the chop is done is when I'd put the wood in. Good luck.
     
  17. saints
    Joined: Dec 15, 2008
    Posts: 553

    saints
    Member

    Thanks you just answered alot of my questions there.....I just located a 49 flathead that I can here run before they pull it so Im going to jump on it......Im that type of person that likes to collect the parts till I have everything(well that I know of) that I need and then dive in and dont stop till Im driving it down the road.....so I'm sure there will be more questions that the book doesnt answer......
     
  18. Duke
    Joined: Mar 21, 2001
    Posts: 927

    Duke
    Member

    Listen to what Corn Fed said. I have a 29 coupe and they get a little out of shape when they have not been on a frame. Get the frame you are going to use, square it up and make it perfect and then add the body. Bolt the body down with the body blocks in place and shim as required to make the doors open and close and the body lines line up. There is model A restorer site that has a tech on shimming the body (I can't remember which one). If you search the Hamb for model a door alignment you should find something. I am using steel instead of wood in my car to give it a little more strength. You could use your top wood kit and make the door posts and the wood above the doors out of steel.
     
  19. Corn Fed
    Joined: May 16, 2002
    Posts: 3,429

    Corn Fed
    Member

    If the body metal itself is solid, I like to leave as much wood in as possible. I weld in supports in areas that won’t interfere with installing the wood. If you leave the wood in, your upholster will thank you because he (or she) will have something to tack the material to. Plus I personally like the looks of the tack heads in the door jambs verses one that is totally welded and smoothed.
     
  20. choppershox
    Joined: Oct 12, 2009
    Posts: 116

    choppershox
    Member

    I totally agree with both Cornfed and Duke. You need the body on the frame at ride height and sqare. You can then install the doors. DO NOT WELD ANYTHING UNTIL YOU ARE SQUARE..that goes for quarter, rocker or cowl patch panels. You can permanantly keep the body ****ed if you do it. Id start by getting your frame done, then blast the body via media or the "S" word, sand....Be careful with sand, you will warp flat panels because of the heat you generate...Place body, shim then adjust the doors and body.. Most of all take your time ask questions like I do if I get lost....
     
  21. pasadenahotrod
    Joined: Feb 13, 2007
    Posts: 11,772

    pasadenahotrod
    Member
    from Texas

    Be advised that skirted fender in the trunk of your car is NOT a coupe/roadster fender by rather a sedan/phaeton fender.
     
  22. +1 for CornFed's comments. Check out the Fordbarn also, a forum for flatties and a forum for As. Between the Hamb, your book and the Fordbarn you will find absolutely everything you need to know.
     
  23. holeshot
    Joined: Sep 18, 2009
    Posts: 1,519

    holeshot
    BANNED
    from Waxahachie

    SAINTS...kid i wouldn't dismiss your dad's knowledge. 1 thing is for sure and certain, he has much more than you give him credit for. I have a question, if you have a welder why would you leave any wood in that coupe. and believe me, you have choice body. compaired to what most builders start with...POP.
     
  24. wbrw32
    Joined: Oct 27, 2007
    Posts: 7,314

    wbrw32
    Member

    Hey POP..If you were the upholsterer youd thank God he put the wood in it....
     
  25. dirt slinger
    Joined: Jan 30, 2010
    Posts: 645

    dirt slinger
    Member

    Where can a man find this book "How To Build A Traditional Hot Rod"? Im not ashamed to admit I can use some further learning on the subject.
     
  26. saints
    Joined: Dec 15, 2008
    Posts: 553

    saints
    Member

    Thanks for all the advice….I’m feeling more confident going in to this project and ive been told of a local hangout of some like minded traditionalists hang out that I can stop buy and see if I can pick there brains…so off I go I’m picking the engine up Saturday weather permitting
    Dirtslinger I bought mine on ebay for I think 15$ It is awesome full of useful info
    Ill start with the frame…Im not sold on the one that came with it so Im on the look out for another….
    Also thanks pasadenahotrod <SCRIPT type=text/javascript> vbmenu_register("postmenu_4890272", true); </SCRIPT> the guy threw themin so I took them I thought they looked like a diff model Thanks for pinpointing it
     
  27. saints
    Joined: Dec 15, 2008
    Posts: 553

    saints
    Member

    hey im on the look out for a new ch***ie or frame and found this(mine has a hack job mustang 2 front end).......it looks like a truck ch***is but it could just be the tires throwing me....
    Have more pics if ya need them
    [​IMG]
     
  28. kirby1374
    Joined: Dec 16, 2008
    Posts: 427

    kirby1374
    Member


    looks like it would work to me
     
  29. that ch***is is not what i would call a truck ch***is...as in a big AA truck. it could be a pickup ch***is. car/pickup are basically the same as a p***enger and will work fine under your `29 coupe body
     
  30. Corn Fed
    Joined: May 16, 2002
    Posts: 3,429

    Corn Fed
    Member

    That's a 30-31, but it will work for your '29. If you're running fenders, you'll have to drill new holes for the hood hold downs as well as get the correct fender braces. Plus you'll have to put some shims under the radiator to space it up to the corect height. But none of this should hinder you from buying it if the price is right and it doesn't have any problems. BTW, the small pickup (not big truck) frame is the same as a p***enger car.
     

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