Projects My '26 Roadster / Vintage photo search

Well, That would seem to be the final word on alarm clocks . . . .

Chris, To bad you and I are not closer together. I may not fabricate, but can keep the shop clean. Where's the trash go ?

Dave

 

What trash!? We recycle!!

 

Chris, I would expect no less from you and Clayton.

How was your Sat ? Will be looking forward to the next update on the speedster.

Dave

 

Dave,

It was good. Watched Clayton working on his front end hopefully to have it hung on Monday evening.
Chris

 

*UPDATE*
Fun with the front shackles continues....

Thanks to "Mr. Machinist", I was able to make some more much needed progress on the front suspension on the T this weekend.

After Chris had turned the tubes I needed for the front spring perches, I set about putting them to use as I had intended. I had already cut my spring perch plates the week prior, so all that was left was to trim the tubes down to the right length, machine the holes through the perch plates, set everything up for a test fit and weld it all up. I didn't meet my welding goals, but got everything setup and ready for tomorrow...since I have the day off

Her is what I left last night:




The fit is still a lil' rough, but I still have some work to do. Look at all the clearance it has now!!!


I also drug the rear end over and got it mocked up behind the frame so that when we get the front done....it's on the the rear shackles!



More to come
​

 

Yessss. I can't wait to see the rear end setup. I may have to make a serious effort to find an axle locally so I can follow along!

-Dave

 

Yeah, should be pretty cool .....excited to get on that too. Already pleased with how the front end is turning out, so I'm excited to have the same success with the rear.

 

Clayton, Your "T" is looking great. Will follow along as it is brought back to a new life.

Can't wait for the final look !

Dave

 

Dave! Thank you kindly! I am excited to see the T back together with it's new "heart and soul"! ...and it is certainly moving along faster this time!

 

Nice job kid

Are you going to be able to keep the rear bones as they are, unsplit?

Mine hit the frame rails when I'm loaded up and hit a decent bump . I'm considering splitting the rears but want to keep it "ol timey".

cheers, G

 

I don't plan to split the rear radius rods in the same fashion.....I have never had any problems with them hitting the frame because the axle hits first anyway. I'm also going to be adding a little ride height in the back anyway, so why make more work for myself then I need to?

*UPDATE*
Front shackles are DONE and they WORK!!!!!!!!
​

So I took the day off yesterday and went to the shop to play and had a few solid hours to finish up my new front shackles that I fab'ed up Saturday. After spending nearly 35 minutes measuring, adjusting, double and triple checking all of my tolerances, distances and centers....it was time to weld. I first tacked the tubes that Chris made me in place, removed the assemblies and welded the heck out of them. Step two was to assemble the shackles again and weld them to the wishbones. Both went off like a charm and front end is hung and supporting the chassis up front with the blocks removed

Here is the latest from yesterday:




Also got the outside pieces for the shackle flanges and welded them into place


Here is the front end from above




...and here for your viewing pleasure, a quick test of the front suspension:
<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/ycdPD7ZRmjo" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Stay tuned for more as I finish the frame mounts for the 'bones ball joint ends and move on to the rear suspension!

 

Killer! How long do you expect it'll be before it's a roller again?


iPhone - TJJ App

 

I'm pretty stoked myself! I could not be more pleased with how this whole new suspension setup is turning out!

With the rate I'm moving forward, I'm hoping to have the new rear lowering shackle assemblies made up and the chassis rolling on all fours again in the next few weeks....if I don't run into any snags that is

Once I have it all built and the chassis is a roller again, it will be stripped down again, sand blasted and painted and re-assembled again for the last time.........then we get going on the new motor

 

Nice Work!
Good luck with the Sand Blasting....I'm still picking sand out of places that shouldn't have sand in them

 

I know, that is awful.

I am looking forward to getting the chassis components blasted and ready for paint....just not looking forward to that aspect of it.

 

Clayton I really need to introduce you to grinding disc's. LOL

Ron

 

I know what a grinding wheel is and I ain't done with 'em yet! lol!

...I just them welded up..then I just kinda ran out of steam. It was getting late and I thought I would leave myself something to do Saturday

 

Clayton, New suspension is looking good. May use a few of your ideas on my Dodge bodied, "T" framed with Model "A" axles and drivetrain. May be looking for advice on how to adapt Model "A" brakes to the T-Frame . . . . Just got this vision in my head. This one (I hope) will be me doing the fab work with assists if I need a jump start.

Wish me luck . . . .

Dave

 

Out of context, that video cracked me up!!!

Progress is progress, nice.

 

Dave ... my frame is a model A narrowed to the Model T width. I mounted the A bellcrank for the brakes to tabs on the outside of the rails and then shortened it. seems to work just fine. I can post pics later if you like.

Ron

 

You liked that, huh? lol!

I thought it was a worthy video to shoot, to demonstrate the movement of my new suspension. It may look a little funny, but as you said...progress IS progress

I had originally intended to do something similar with a set of mechanical brakes from an early Buick....'24 or '25 if memory serves. The design work needed to adapt them was a bit over my head at the time so early in the project and it was setting me back, so I opted for the "Rocky-Mountain" accessory brakes instead.

I would like to see pictures too, to see how it all works out.

 

Thank you as always Dave!

Dodge body? Model T frame? Model A suspension and drivetrain? I can't WAIT to see this!

That is how they all start....with a vision ..and the only you will learn is to just jump in and do it. The first few fab work projects you do will most likely be sketchy, but who cares...you're learning

..Hell, look at mine......I'm rebuilding my whole damn car!

You'll do just fine Dave...it's not Rocket science, it old cars

 

I realize this wasn't directed at me, but I may have this painted on one of my garage walls as inspiration.

-Dave

 

Glad I could offer some inspiring words my friend

 

Clayton,
I keep seeing that a GowJob needs better the stock brakes. What I can't wrap my head around (not seeing them in person) is how the Rocky Mountain brakes are different then Stock on the improved T's (26-27) other then the rear brakes and trans brake are tied together. Can you add some clarity (and Pictures) to the difference when you get to the rear?

Thanks,
Bruce

 

Bruce,

The Rocky-Mountain brakes are really a must and any T as far as I'm concerned. While a stock T does have what Ford called "brakes" (a single transmission brake band)...they are, in my eyes, totally inadequate for higher speeds.

The addition of the overdrive also introduces another very import and potentially dangerous variable.......NEUTRAL.

With the overdrive gearbox in neutral, the Model T transmission brake is now completely useless, no longer able to stop the rear wheels via the drive shaft.....now your T has no brakes PERIOD. This has caused several accidents over the years, some fatal.

The Rocky-Mountain brakes are accessory rear wheel brakes that grab the outside of the rear brake drums and stop the wheels regardless of the aux. gearbox being in neutral or not.

They also add twice the stopping power. The rear drums...especially on the later large drum axles, are bigger in diameter then the T trans brake drum and you have one on each wheel...and they DO stop my roadster.

I have mine hooked to my stock T brake pedal using the supplied with the re-popped R-M brake kits allowing it to actuate both the trans brake (used mostly for stopping the O.D. so that you can put it in gear from a stop) and the wheel brakes.

Here is a drawing I did explaining how this works...will take some better pics for you as well:

 

Clayton,
Thanks for the Picture. It helps to clear up some questions about the brakes.

Bruce

Did you just happen to have that drawing laying about?

 

I also forgot to mention that while the all the T's have the inner rear wheel parking brakes (the '26-27 T's are much larger then the early cars), they are exactly that....parking brakes. They really don't work all that well at stopping the car by themselves....and if the trans brake is nullified by the Aux. Overdrive being in neutral, you still might as well have no brakes at all. Rocky-Mountains are the way to go.

That drawing was actually something I whipped up for you to illustrate how they work.

 

I didn't realize Rockies were external band. Can you explain why the repos don't work well in reverse? Also, didn't German Ts have the parking brakes hooked to the trans brake pedal from the factory?

-Dave

 

NONE of those external band rear wheel brakes work in reverse, no matter the make...original or repo. All the cars of that period with those brakes, big or small had that issue...the shop's big '17 Hupmobile sure does.

The best way to describe why they don't work in reverse, and the best example is an Oil Filter Wrench, ya know the old metal band type?


When the brakes are applied, the drums rotating forward want to grab the band and pull them tighter. When the car is moving in reverse, the drums are trying to push them open....so they don't grab as well.

Hope that make sense.