Projects My 31 cdan before, disaster, and rebuild.....lol... S$$$ happens...

16-18 plus the locked 8 at the crank...also it's electronic dist. and 40k coil...no points...

 

The plugs you're running are resistor plugs - this is NOT what you want. Switch over to the plug that I mentioned - in a #6 heat range. My flathead in my 32 has a HUGE roller cam, tons of duration . . . and a #6 heat range is right on for it. Hotter plugs won't magically solve a tuning issue . . .

 

i'm on that, gotta get time to return the one I got....sold my rv and have to get it unloaded... then back on the model a CDAN...

 

Sounds good, keep me posted - I wish you the best of luck!
B&S

 

65 jets are big, no?

 

the new carb came with 45's,... the carb I took off the motor had 65's so I put them in the new carb...

pretty much at this point need to go to sq. 1 and start over...the engine fire burnt up the coli carb dist... got that back running and the cam gear started loosing teeth,.. so while that was down, I put the aluminum 7.1 head, and the header hook to lake pipes... so got know idea where anything is at right now.... but we'll see soon...

 

OK.... got the plugs.... some head scratching going on with heat rage of the plugs.... the higher the number.... the higher the heat rang.. but the colder the plug**&^%#@@? lol...

 

Spark Plug Heat Range 5 vs 6
Lastly, let’s compare spark plug heat ranges 5 and 6. As before, a higher heat range, such as 6, indicates a colder spark plug that dissipates heat more effectively. Conversely, a lower heat range, like 5, suggests a hotter spark plug that retains more heat.

The decision between these two heat ranges depends on the specific requirements of your engine. If you have a high-performance engine or engage in demanding activities, a colder spark plug with a higher heat range, like 6, would be more suitable. It can effectively manage the increased heat generated and prevent any potential issues.

However, if you have a standard engine or operate in less demanding conditions, a hotter spark plug with a lower heat range, like 5, may be sufficient. It will retain more heat, which can be beneficial for engines that operate at lower temperatures or have lower compression ratios.

For instance, let’s consider a lawnmower with a small engine that is used for mowing the lawn. In this case, using a spark plug with a heat range of 5 would be appropriate, as it can retain more heat and ensure optimal performance during regular lawn mowing without the need for excessive heat dissipation.

 

my main problem is CRS...@ 70 I seem to have forgotten more than I ever learned... in my younger days I went 200mph in a 1/4 mile , A one man band in the pits,.. tuned by myself. pit crew was friends and family




sister, sister inlaw... and the little guy in the blue shirt is the one that built my model a header..

the digger is a CCE chassis with a full hanna body... be nice to still have that one..

 

Love that engine. Cool car. Cool build.it takes a bit more effort to build a such a cool old school hot rod. But well worth the effort.

 

plug on the left is the new NGK, middle is the AC delco, and on the right is the stock head plug...

the ac delco looks to be a 5 heat range while the NGK is a 6

a waist of time to try to tune off the ac plug, as it was in the motor running with not enough timiming as the strap show about 1/3 heated....



as you can see, the ac plug is a step lower heat rangeg and about 3/16 longer reach...
so at this point, i'm taking the excellent advise from bored&stroked and gonna start with the
plug he Said to try...i bought 12 so I can use 4 to start..get timing and fuel delivery. and have 8 to tune with... I know of a country road where I can put a new plug run it and chop the throttle and ign..... so we'll see

 

thanks for the kind words.... the struggle is real.....

 

well, it just never quits.... I ordered the plugs from amazon.... the add says NGK B6ES...,

they sent BR6ES.... so, they want me to send them back and they will send another set...??? my bet is they don't have the B6ES...

 

Amazon.com: NGK B6ES Spark Plug : Automotive

 

So, another FACT from your post.....

1. Non-Resistor Spark Plugs:
   
   • These spark plugs lack a resistor in their center electrodes.
   • Historically, all spark plugs were non-resistor types until the 1960s.
   • Non-resistor spark plugs produce a stronger spark but also generate more electromagnetic interference.
   • They are mainly used in niche applications and racing vehicles.

 

well. ordered these plugs 2 times, both times they came resistor plugs.... wondering, how much difference it will make on a 7.1 compression motor??? still trying to get the no resistor plugs though....

 

up date...got her running, drove across town and home on it's own power...it was running way fat and would ping/knock on a hard load... I did fill it up with prem. gas...took a couple deg. of timing out..and that quit.. one question I have is reading the plug strap for timing... would the 1/16'' burn line still apply with running low 20's advance..I think the rec. timing for the head is 26/28 degrees...

she runs real strong for being fat....I put the stock size jets(45's) but when I index'd them (china) they were closer to 49's.. I got some real stromberg jets 41's and 43's from so-cal speed in vegas... they are true to index size...
I figured it a waist of time to do a chop off plug test when I could look out the window and see black soot coming out the lake pipes... the plugs now have no burn line on the porcelain

 

well... the carb jet deal turnned out to be a problem,.. ended up having to get another Carb.... so now,... ready to tune tomorrow... running true to index 45's... starts and runs good as is,... but wannasee where it's at....exhaust is now cleaned up with just a hint of black with the accelerator pump...sounds good starts easy and runs smooth...and no ping...

 

Sounds like you are getting it dialed in. I haven't heard about looking at the plug strap for timing, how does that work?

 

the strap tells the story....and will help save a motor..when running, the strap gets red hot and makes a heat line,.. too much timing and the strap will get red hot all the way to the threads, and cause the tip of the plug and the spark end of the strap to start melting ... when this first starts, the squareness of the strap will start to round, as will the electrode in the plug... this is how you burn a hole in the piston...you want the fire line about 1/16 or so from the threads on the plug...usually running about 32 degrees timing or so...I'm not sure where it needs to be with a banger motor only running 22-24 degrees timing...same with the fire ring...reading plugs and not knowing what to look for only tells you the brand
with my motor, iLL HaVE TO CUT THE PLUG threads off as they are XL plugs and I can't see down there to see where the ring is..

asB&S has post early in this thread, one must do a chop off plug read test with a new plug to see where it really is at... not all that critical one would think, but, top fuel guys will burn up a 6 pack of pistons in a quarter mile... and for bangers, correct timing and jetting tells rather or not your motor will survive or not pulling a long grade...I've seen cars die on the side of the road going up a steep hill where they burnned off the whole strap...I like to do a mid range chop off, and a W.O.T...you can still use the plugs for running plugs and spares, but like B&S stated one must use a new plug for each test..