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Projects My 36 ford project. Or how to ruin a perfectly good car

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by the man, Mar 30, 2014.

  1. Roadsir
    Joined: Jun 3, 2006
    Posts: 4,054

    Roadsir
    Member

    Crafty way to come up with a press for the wheels. Progress is looking great.
     
  2. lowcoe
    Joined: Jan 30, 2008
    Posts: 846

    lowcoe
    Member

    Nice. So new rivets or weld?
     
  3. Plug welds. I still need to move the air fill hole to.
     
  4. lowcoe
    Joined: Jan 30, 2008
    Posts: 846

    lowcoe
    Member

    Still struggling with my front end.... Did you work out all the bugs?
     
  5. .
    All the ones i found so far. Long way to go.
     
  6. Robert Crosse
    Joined: Sep 10, 2014
    Posts: 156

    Robert Crosse
    Member
    from WNY

    You have such I well equipped shop I thought this would bring a smile.......;)

    Tools explained.


    DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly ******ing flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, denting the freshly-painted project which you had carefully set in the corner where nothing could get to it.


    WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light . Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, 'Oh sh--!'


    SKIL SAW: A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short.


    PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters.


    BELT SANDER: An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs.


    HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle... It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes.


    VISE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.


    OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub out of which you want to remove a bearing race.


    TABLE SAW: A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for testing wall integrity.


    HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your new brake shoes , trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper.


    BAND SAW: A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to cut good aluminum sheet into smaller pieces that more easily fit into the trash can after you cut on the inside of the line instead of the outside edge.


    TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect.


    PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids or for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads.


    STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER: A tool for opening paint cans.. Sometimes used to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws and butchering your palms.


    PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.


    HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to make hoses too short.


    HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent the object we are trying to hit.


    UTILITY KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while in use.


    SON-OF-A-***** TOOL: (A personal favorite!) Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling 'Son of a *****!' at the top of your lungs. It is also, most often, the next tool that you will need.

    Bob
     
    flynbrian48, redzula, Jet96 and 3 others like this.
  7. ^ true words brother
     
  8. I rebuilt my rear end. Put it all back together, painted,new brakes. And so on. Went to add gear oil to it and dropped a piece of metal in the filler hole. So today I got to tear it all back apart to retrieve said metal. Managed to get it all back together and filled up with no other problems.
     
    Squablow and Outback like this.
  9. lowcoe
    Joined: Jan 30, 2008
    Posts: 846

    lowcoe
    Member

    Progress. Check that off the list!
     
  10. pumpman
    Joined: Dec 6, 2010
    Posts: 2,674

    pumpman
    Member


    You hit the nail on the head, well at least most of the times. Enjoyed the hell out of this, thanks!
     
  11. ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1429287695.346308.jpg . I got tires. going to take it off the frame table today and mount the body then it will be a roller. Then it's off to lone star for me. I will of course be walking
     
  12. 08racer
    Joined: Jun 13, 2005
    Posts: 871

    08racer
    Member
    from Gilbert AZ

    Are Those the new Coker bias radials?
     
  13. Nope just regular old bias.
     
  14. 08racer
    Joined: Jun 13, 2005
    Posts: 871

    08racer
    Member
    from Gilbert AZ

    Nice job!!! Can't wait to see it with the body on!
     
  15. Dooley
    Joined: May 29, 2002
    Posts: 3,103

    Dooley
    Member
    from Buffalo NY

  16. just a little question, but first; you work is incredable and to be admired. now my question: I noticed how close the exhaust (muffler) is to your master cylinder....will the brakes be affected by the heat?? being more drag race than rod oriented, I was just wondering
     
  17. Crazyolman
    Joined: May 24, 2014
    Posts: 188

    Crazyolman

    My exhaust was that close to the master cylinder so I put a heat shield between the 2 and never had any problems.
     
  18. The exsaust is just sat in there. Once The motor is installed and it's all hooked up should be about 4 inches of room. I've had the same set up on probably the last eight or nine cars. never had an issue. Went to the round up today. Walked like 1200 miles. Came home and got the body back on. I need to adjust the floor in a couple of spots that are hitting the rear crossmember and the X member. shouldn't be too big of a deal. Then I can pull it back off and seal it and get it mounted permanently
     
  19. ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1429396465.453767.jpg ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1429396491.756619.jpg ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1429396523.508320.jpg ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1429396560.637680.jpg
    Few things I seen ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1429396596.119316.jpg
     
    Hotdoggin DaddyO likes this.
  20. lowcoe
    Joined: Jan 30, 2008
    Posts: 846

    lowcoe
    Member

    Eight or nine cars? You have a problem.... Sorry there's no cure....
     
  21. ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1429476203.839113.jpg I can hear Mr. locker right now in my eighth-grade sheetmetal cl***. Anderson measure twice cut once. Had to make a slight adjustment to the floor like remove the whole damn thing. I officially hate this car. I think it's time to sell or trade or something else.
     
    Last edited: Apr 20, 2015
  22. lowcoe
    Joined: Jan 30, 2008
    Posts: 846

    lowcoe
    Member

    Noooooo!!!!!!
     
  23. Crazyolman
    Joined: May 24, 2014
    Posts: 188

    Crazyolman

    Been there, but there is life after problems are solved. Keep moving forward as it will get better.
     
  24. pumpman
    Joined: Dec 6, 2010
    Posts: 2,674

    pumpman
    Member

    That measure twice cut once is a good theory, just hasn't worked that well for me in the past either. It's more like do it twice rather than once. Hang in there man, your work is still great.
     
  25. Model A Mark
    Joined: Apr 30, 2008
    Posts: 1,322

    Model A Mark
    Member
    from dallas

    Hey "Man" your work is top notch, set backs are common place for the kind of work your doing,
    Keep your chin up brother and forge on ....
     
  26. ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1429585215.512910.jpg ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1429585236.488159.jpg
    I forgot I was making new side mounts. I cut these out a wile ago and misplaced them. I need to get them welded and mounted so I can shim the body and Aline the doors. I still need the back ones. But since I got rid of them I'll start from scratch
     
  27. Babar40
    Joined: Dec 4, 2009
    Posts: 314

    Babar40
    Member
    from Florida

  28. kidcampbell71
    Joined: Sep 17, 2012
    Posts: 4,756

    kidcampbell71
    Member

    Stellar **** ... once again. Great stuff man. As if, right ? This build is awesome.
     
  29. Great stuff is right - glad I found this thread! In reference to my master cylinder/muffler comment: thanks and being there in person, to see, is much better than pictures....I'm sure as I'd like to be there watching :)
     

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