1952-59 Ford my 4.6 dohc powered 57 Custom, aka, doing it the easy way

Good God!
Did you move your vin plate to that position?

 

That is the original vin plate position for '57's.
LOL....That's a gag photo, btw. I had a bundle of wires I had pulled out of a late model mini-van in case I needed a color match wire. I wrapped them around my neck, stuffed them out the dash panel, and had my neice snap the pic. The ones I was actually working with are those neatly coiled up

 

Got a few hours in today. got the computer mounted to the inner firewall. In the pic you can see the bottom of it in the shadow behind the VA A/C. I got a hd 2" grommet mounted to in the sidewall and most of the engine wires fed in. The wires on the support are the ****** wires. This kinda looks like the gag pic I posted above, lol, but they're for real.
I also got the cpu to telorvek panel wrapped in foil with an ecapsulated bare wire to ground. I have other cpu's/modules under the dash, hopefully the shielding will minimize/eliminate crosstalk.

 

I did do a final wrap with rubber splicing tape. This stuff is not an adhesive backed tape, it's just clingy.

 

Tidying up the engine wires so I can proceed with starting to attach at the other end. Very time consuming. I've come to the conclusion trying to hide everything on an engine like this ain't gonna happen...the most I can do is be neat, and maybe later make an engine cover.
This is not complete by any means, but all the wires I showed in the interior pics on the prior post are now tidyed up on the engine side. I've not included the two coil pack connectors/wires in the wrapping because they will get moved from the front of the engine to the back end after I finish the cop conversion. They are the uncovered wires in the top left d****** over the A/C dryer.

 

Holy ****!!... and I thought my wiring was a nightmare!!!

 

An update...
After a week of taking care of the wife's honeyDo list I finally got back to it. All the wires from the engine to the Telorvek panel are now attached, and I've begun working on the wires from the panel to other locations....gages, engine code connector, fuel pump, etc etc. I still have alot to attach to the panel, and I'll do the final tidying up when they're all attached.
The panel controls the fuel pump, and they supply the wiring with connector to be able to use a Ford inertia switch. That was something I forgot to pull from the donor car, so I pulled one from a 96 T-bird at the salvage yard yesterday and got it mounted in the trunk. I'm now working on getting those wires to the back end...something I forgot to do before I laid the carpet and backseat, etc.

 

BTW.....those enertia switches are a great safety device when running an electric fuel pump. It'll shut the pump off in the event of a collision.They're cheap...$5 or so at a salvage yard, and small so no problem finding an accesible place for it. Just mount it and run the fuel pump feed wire thru it.
A mechanic friend was telling me they are a little touchy. When he worked at a Ford dealer, they'd have people having their cars towed in after it not starting in a parking lot. Apparently a tap on a bumper not severe enough to do visible damage was enough to trigger the switches.

 

Just an update....life and short pockets as usual getting in the way of alot of progress, but I have got some stuff done over the past few weeks. The Telorvek/Ron Francis harness is now complete except for wiring to dash gauges. I moved on to finishing up the ch***is harness and immediatly ran into a problem with not having the correct wiring for the engine components portion of the harness. I'm using a Ron Francis kit there as well, an Express kit. The wrong wires were my fault, not the manufacturers. All Ron Francis kits are made to order for specific applications. Back 3 or so years ago when I ordered the kit, I was leaning towards an older school 351. They made my harness wiring based on that. I had forgot that when I changed my mind and went with the 4.6 dohc/4r70w. I have all the correct wiring bags on the way. The serial number on my Express panel gave them all the info they needed to look up what I received originally, and what I would need based on my final engine selection.
While I'm waiting on that, I finished up my battery cables. I'm using #1 gage cables I got from Ron Francis. A little pricey at 90ish for 6 foot cables, but great quality as usual from them. I got overly enthusiastic tightening the nut on the starter solenoid and actually spun the threaded post in the solenoid..couldn't tighten, couldn't loosen. The starter wasn't coming out with the cables attached without dropping the Rack and pinion, but I did manage to get the solenoid out and dropped far enough to cut the nut of with a cut off tool. Picked up a new solenoid, Borg-Warner, 23. new delivered off ebay. Got it installed, this time a little more cautious since I now know those solenoid posts are copper!
I also got a 70 amp relay setup installed to power the Mark Viii electric fans, got the OD ****on on the gear shifter wired up with an indicator light on the console, and got the check engine code reader connector installed, also with a (check engine) indicator light.
I installed a new gas sending unit in the gas tank. The new wiring had already been run to that location. I did get the fuel pump wired up with the in-line inertia switch. The Telorvek panel has a built in relay for it, btw.
Left to do on the wiring: Install the alternator and starter wiring when it comes in from Ron Francis, wire up the Vintage Air Gen IV unit, and wire up my gauge panel. After that, I'm ready to turn the ignition key!...at least electrically speaking.

 

Looking at all those wires makes my brain hurt...

 

Just look at them one wire at a time...doesn't make your brain hurt so much. It actually has been a fun project with not a whole lot of trying to figure out things. Keeping things as neat as posible...or reasonably posible...is the hard part. I don't know how many times I've fished a wire thru areas only to realize I looped around something I didn't want to halfway thru..
Today I started working on a harness for the dash gages that I can just unplug at connectors behind the panel. I picked up 4 connector pairs at Radio Shack, and I think they'll work out pretty well. I'll post a pic when I get it done.
Tonight I got the correct wiring in for the alternator from Ron Francis. Wow..6 gage wire on the alternator to solenoid cable. That's almost battery cable size in some cars.

 

As someone who isn't afraid of wiring, I must admit it makes my brain hurt a little every time I see it.

Texas57, you're doing an outstanding job. While most of us (myself included) prefer to go the easy-peasy-simple-as-you-can-get route, you've stepped up and made this look easy. Thanks for the updates!

 

Right you are,our Aerostar van did this twice and it doesn't have to be a bumper tap,a pot hole and activate the switch.

After the expense of having the van towed and the service manager just opens the p***enger door and leans in to reach just above the kick panel and resets the ****on it's a relief but it also makes you mad.

The net time the van wouldn't crank we had just cot back to the shop,,loaded up to make a delivery and it acted like it was out of gas,,I remembered the problem from the previous year and looked for the ****on,reset it and it fired right up.

Ford seems to have a problem with these roll over switches being a little too sensitive,my daughters explorer has also experienced this same problem.

 

I got my gage panel pretty much finished up today. I've got to add a hole for my high beam led. The turn signal indicators will be in the hood scoop. I've also got to figure out if I want the push ****on for the electronic speedometer on the dash panel. I think the Radio Shack connectors worked out quite well...I split the wires up into 3 different sized connectors so there would be no chance of plugging them in wrong. The panel holds the speedometer, tach, oil pressure, and fuel gages. The voltmeter and water temp are mounted in the console. If I had it to do aggain, I'd think about having all 4 small gages in the panel with just the speedometer, and mount the tach up on the dash.
I'm looking forward to the electronic speedo....no worries about speedometer gears/cables , differential ratios, tires sizes, etc. Push a ****on, drive a mile, push it again and it calibrates everything for ya.

 

update#725...Well, as usual, I haven't gotten squat done...at least physically. I did, however, p*** a major milestone, for me at least, in my build. No, I haven't started the motor, lol. I've been talking alot about wiring and the fact this is my first build, so therefore my first wiring project. The thing that was always bothering me about the wiring was how in the end, everything tied together. There were a ton of questions and unknowns for me. The Ron Francis stuff I've been using has been great...I mean great to the point where you don't have to be an electrical engineer to get it done (and hopefully done right...that's the final question to be answered). When I buy stuff for my car, I figure I'm paying about 25% of the cost for the hardware, and the other75% for the instruction sheets that come with it. Anyway, the ch***is harness was pretty much paint by numbers, as was even the efi engine harness. BUT....you have stuff like electric cooling fans, Vintage Air, electric fuel pumps, dash gauges,etc etc. How does all this stuff from different companies tie together? It was always on the back of my mind. Well fortunatly, I finally got the last piece of the puzzle figured out. Well, actually not figured out, but explained to me. I had already discovered between the ch***is harness and the engine harness, that the fuel pump, and electric speedometer were addressed. I purchased a relay/sensor mini harness from RF that took care of the high amp cooling fans. The last thing on the list was the Vintage Air wiring. I called them yesterday to find out about the trinary switch I had installed. The trinary switch is a safety switch controlling the A/C compressor, and turns the cooling fans on (that's the binary portion), the trinary portion of the switch handles the request for fans based on engine temperature. I didn't know how the relay I installed for engine temperature request tied into the A/C request for cooling fans, and if the VA trinary switch could even work with the seperate relay system. Well, the Vintage Air guy asked me for the Ron Francis part number and said...no problem just run a certain wire on their trinary switch to a certain wire on the relay harness. That was easy!!! I'm pretty close to finishing up, but it's a huge relief to know exactly what needs to be done and it wasn't worth all the worry to begin with! I hope my view doesn't change when I turn the key for the first time....I will have someone standing by the battery cable, I will have a fire extinguisher charged and ready, and I will have my back wheels jacked up off the ground.
I'm rambling.

 

I read you Texas, or at least I read your text, but my brain feels like a softly boiled egg after this. You've got my respect. I understand jacks$)& about wiring, besides the basics. Hope all goes well.
Regards

 

Thanks for that response, Rui..seriously. It pointed out that I did 180 degrees off from what I wanted to do with the post....and that was to point out that anybody can do it. The biggest thing to focus on at the beginning is to use reputable suppliers that have great instructions. You don't have to read volumns on understanding electricity, know how to read a multimeter, or design a harness...... Just follow the instructions one wire at a time, and make use of the suppliers tech line if you need to clarify something or have additional questions. Not to many years ago I tried to install a new radio in my daily driver...I wasn't a half hour into the project before I called my son to do it for me..figured I'd never attempt wiring again.

 

Hehe, I also went through that trying to install a radio and when I finished I noticed that after all, it wasnt so hard. But this is a hole new thing and with all of the improvements you have acomplished and things added to you car, I still find it mind bending just to look at it. But I guess that with instructions I could do it "one piece at a time".
Regards

 

Be sure to use plenty of grounding wire and cables. When I put the 4.6 in my F-100, I had ground straps from the cab to the frame, frame to engine, battery negative to engine, and ground lugs inside the cab for instrument panel, a/c. I put the telorvec panel behind the seat with more ground lugs there. You can't have too many grounds. I also used Dielectric grease on those connections. Never had any electrical problems with that truck.

 

I took the Ron Francis advise on the grounding and totally wired my car as if it were a fibergl*** car. Nothing on the car is grounded to the body. I've got a grounding terminal strip in the trunk and two under the dash. These all go directly to a covered distribution box right next to the battery. I will still add the ground cables....you never know when lightning will strike..or you knock over a power pole, etc. lol. I may add a fourth strip in the engine comparment if I need it after I get the front sheetmetal on and start wiring headlights, turn signals, etc....not sure yet. Dielectric grease is good...I've remembered to use it most of the time.

 

I'm a very happy camper today....No, still haven't started the engine, BUT...I got to hook up the battery cables and hit the ignition key. I love the sound of that starter,lol! That's a huge milestone for me since I've never wired a car, have the Mustang steering column/ignition switch/multifunction switch, etc etc. I just wanted to hear that starter kick in for a confirmation that things just may be right!
YAAHOOO!!!!
LOL...when I got in the car after hooking up the power, I could hear a ticking noise...didn't figure out what it was until I walked around the back of the car and my hazards were flashing. (the switch was on)Good indication for the rest of the column wiring I can't check yet, and I know my tailights are wired and grounded! My check engine light did come on when I turned the key to the on position as it's suppose to.
Before too long, I'll turn on the fuel pump, put some gas in and see what happens.

 

Congrats! Be sure to post a video when you start the beast.

 

This is a lot of typing, so I'm just gonna copy what I posted on the '57fordsforever forum:
Well today should be declared a national holiday! after 10 years, I can turn an ignition key and start an engine! YAHOOO!!
The engine kicked right over and most everything appears to be good. My check engine light comes on when I put the key in the on position, as it should, but goes right out when the engine starts, so it's not throwing any engine codes. I was able to check a few things out....my gages seem to be working..obviously couldn't check the speedometer, but the oil pressure went right to 80, the volts are reading about 13.5, the fuel says a bit less than 1/4 (I put in 5 gals.). the tach seems to be where it should be. I couldn't check the water temp because my small garage fills with fumes fast, so I couldn't leave it running to warm up. The O/D switch on the shifter seems to be working, at least the indicator light I installed goes on and off with the ****on pushing. All of my dash/console lights are working including the Mark Viii gear position indicator.
The car runs a little rough when the idle speed drops, but I'm ***uming that's due to the lack of exaust mufflers...no backpressure.
I've got the radiator and the engine filled with coolant, but haven't been able to leave it running long enough to kick open the thermostat...but so far no leaks there. The oil pan and valve covers that were replaced are not leaking. I did have a leak in the fuel supply line, but that was a fitting that needed some more tightening.
The P/S resevoir,pump, and all the lines to the hydroboost appear to be not leaking except for a small leak at one of the banjo fittings on the hydroboost. I'll tighten that tommorrow. I did notice that the lines to the hydroboost and the hydroboost got very hot within a minute or two. Is that normal?

 

Congrats,it almost brings a tear to your eye when your "baby" lets out it's first cry doesn't it?

 

Thanks Jeff, yes it almost did..the proud papa! I got a little feedback from the two techi guys on the '57 forumn that have helped me so much over the years...the computer has to relearn everything, which is the main reason for the rough idle. It takes in the range of 25 restarts for the computer to learn what it needs to to maintain a smooth running engine (they're slow learners I guess). I need to make sure the + power to the computer is not turned off or it needs to start all over again.

 

Now that both the car and the engine are wired to the point I could apply the power source, I've got a ton of stuff to check out and I'm starting the enevitable list of things that need attention. I was able to keep the engine running enough yesterday to check out the water temp gage, and it is working. However the heating up of the hydroboost/ps is definetly a problem. I was really careful when I ran all the lines between the ps pump, reservoir, hydroboost, cooler and rack and pinion. However, I ran the lines from the hydroboost from directions given from someone who had just installed the same system on their car. Today I'm hopefully going to find other reference sources. I did a post yesterday on the main board here, and one of the responses was it will heat up if the lines are not run correctly. My rack is new as is the cooler and reservoir, the ps pump is a known (I drove the donor car), but the hydroboost is a salvage yard item, so an unknown. I did not try to turn the steering wheel to see if has the power ***ist.
I sent an email to KMOG here to see where he's at on his hydroboost install.
I did check out my variable speed winshield wiper motor and it works, although I need some adjustments on the hard arms I made for inside the cowl. It is binding on the end of the stroke and blew the 10 amp fuse. That inside the cowl Mustang 360 degree wiper motor and hard arms to match up the oem wiper pivots was an insane project, but it works. I was on my own with the electrical hooking up the wiper motor/ control module to the multifunction switch on the steering colum. Ron Francis wouldn't/couldn't? supply that part of the wiring.
The flashers work on both tailights, but I only have one tailight working. ?? Brake lights and turn signals are not working either, but at this point no sheetmetal on the front end means nothing on the lighting is wired up front..headlights, so I'm not sure what should be or should not be working at this point until the rest of the wiring is done. Brake lights should be working though, regardless of front end wiring.
It looks I've got lots to do to get everything checked out and working!

 

Texas57, I sent you a pm regarding my boost, and told you I thought you had some blockage. But according to your last post, you haven't tried the steering. That makes me think you have an air lock. I would put it up on jacks and go through the bleeding of your power steering.
You never know it might just be that simple.

 

That will be my next thing as soon as I can confirm I have the PS/hydroboost/pump/cooler lines all correct. I was cautioned when I installed the rack to make sure I didn't reverse the lines because it would do internal damage, so I'm trying not to start the engine again until I can verify the lines are correct. I did finally contact the guy that made my R & P kit, and he is going to verify which ports are which on the rack and call me tonight. Thanks to the diagram you sent me, I verified all the other connections are correct. I need to figure some way of venting the exhaust gas out of my small garage also so I can keep the engine running long enough to go thru some of these proceedures.

 

Congratulations Texas. Lots of work payed off.
Post a vid.