My next concern is matching the steering pump to the Mustang II rack. I believe that mine is the T-Bird rack and I heard they are more pressure matched to the pump pressure of the GM pumps.
MJ40, I am also building a 40 Ford truck I am at the point of beginning my research into heater/AC units. Which did you choose and why? Thanks, Jeff
The correct pump housing came in yesterday so I used up most of today installing that and finishing up the pump install. Made a couple trips to the parts store to get the correct length belt. All looks good but may be a little tight for the return line to the inner fender panel. Just to check for clearances I decided to mock up the inner panels to see where I stand. They are already painted so will know more tomorrow when I bolt the grill in place. I mounted the radiator only to find out the the upper hose will run right thru the alternator adjustment rod. May have to build a new one.
Dang! Looks like you might need an alt. adj. bracket with a dogleg in it or can you flip it and make it work backwards?
Looking great! I really like the color choice. I'd be interested to know the details of your steering rack/pump/pressure resolution when you get to it.
Funny you asked. I called TCI today and they told me that the type II pumps will need a kit to reduce the line pressure unless you buy the pump from a dealer that has them installed for your system. Mine was an off the shelf unit, so it looks like I will need the kit. Some say the T-Bird racks will work fine with the type II pumps but they say not. They do recommend setting the caster with a power rack at 4-5° positive for better steering. I also found that their coil springs have a painted dot on the end to determine what spring rate you have. Mine had a green dot so it is a 300# spring for a small block car. They recommended the 375# springs for big blocks and my heavy nailhead. They are doing an exchange for me. Spring Rate for 14" spring Color Code 300# Green For Ford and Chevy Cars 425# Blue For Ford and Chevy Pickup and Cars w/Big Blocks and Steel Heads 375# Red For Ford and Chevy Pickup and Cars w/Big Blocks and Aluminum Heads 700# Blue & Red Marking on the Spring
Good info, thanks. Dad is building a 36 p/u with a real MII (junkyard) setup. Its got an SBC and I think he's going to run a manual rack, which should not be too bad with a 16" steering wheel. But I can see where the power assist would be nice with your heavier motor. Thanks for the spring info, we may be needing that. It sits right now, but if it sags much, we'll need to put in a heavier spring.
I figured it was time to start mounting the front end for alignment. Painter is working on the fenders now. 40's mount the front fenders with a wishbone mount that pivots from the original front cross member. It kind of floats out there but no real way to align the front sheet metal. I built a set of mounts for my coupe that worked quite well. Mounted everything solid and was able to shim the corners to align the hood to the grill and fenders. The best way is to fit the hood to the cowl first and then the grill. Then fit the fenders to the hood sides. Very few 40 hoods fit the cowl very well. A friend made the mounts up for me for the pickup. You can see they both do the same thing and can be shimmed. His are beefier and support the front end well. I noticed Bob Drake just came out with a set that mounts on the inside using the same holes as the old wishbone mounts and radiator support rods. His are $45 a pair. Another reason I want to start fitting the front end is I wanted to see how low this things is going to sit. My coupe settled over 1 1/2” up front and is a little too low. Looks like this one is going to do the same even though I went with larger wheels and tires up front. How low is too low? I have a couple choices to make. I will know more after I install the heavier coil springs. If that is not enough I can either add some coil spacers in the upper towers to give a inch or two or trade out the drop spindles for stock ones. I want this car to be drivable with out worrying about driveways and neighborhood speed bumps. Right now the grill chin is 4 3/8” off the ground.
Mj40's -- Wanted to say thanks for taking the time to post your build on this thread. I've been checking in from time to time picking up some great ideas for my '41 Ford PU project that's at an earlier build stage. And after checking in tonight and seeing your posts dealing with the front sheet metal .... well, just 'thanks' again. I've been in the dark about the attachment of the front sheet metal, so I'm following closely now! Keep the pictures and full descriptions coming - please. Subscribed! -Ken
I have never been one to keep secrets about my builds. I know some that get down right nasty when asked about something on their cars. I had some great mentors to hold my hand when I was young and time to repay those debts. I enjoy the build and helping others with their projects. I have made many mistakes and sure there will be more. I only hope I have saved a few for others. We both learn something new with each step.
On my '40 truck my grill chin was that same height with stock MII spindles, 14" wheels and 195 tires. The only thing I watched out for were parking lot blocks.
I have had my 40 coupe for 46 years now and know just where to stop before hitting any parking blocks. I worry about the road trash that you can't see in time coming out from under the car in front. I hit a plastic gas can with my late model last month heading out for a vacation in the dark. Lucky it was plastic and already had a gaping hole in it. Hung up underneath and I drug it for a couple blocks before I could get her to the side. Sparks was all I could in vision. No damage but could have been ugly.
In post 245 I mentioned that I had a problem with the upper radiator hose running thru the alternator bracket. There was just no other place to connect the adjuster to to clear the hose. So here is my solution;
Nice work on the alternator bracket. Tons of great work into this truck. It's been a fun thread to follow.
Great bracket ,I never would of solved the problem as neet as you did. The front should be higher. I set mine at 8" in my 39 so I can drive anywhere anytime. A 39 Deluxe grill is expensive $1000.00 or so, I can not afford to replace one. Having a low car to impress others is not a good idea.
Love you alternator bracket solution, I would have never of thought of that, and it looks cool, to boot!
The bracket looks cool and different. My question is what happens when you wear in the belt a bit and need to adjust the bracket further. Is there any chance the bracket could hit the hose
I took that into consideration. I made sure the belt was the correct width for the pulleys and I usually buy two just to have a spare. Even if it stretches a little I will be ok.
Good job on the bracket! I was thinking the hose would go over, or under, but I never considered "through". Your doing a great job on this build, can't wait to see it.
Nice work. If the arc of the slotted part of the bracket is laid out correctly and matches the arc of the alternator bolt, the movement of the bracket should be minimal to zero. So if it is designed right, there should be no issue with the bracket fouling the hose as the belt stretches. Mart.
The last few days I have been taking advantage of this nice fall weather and finishing a few loose ends on the build. I have a few new parts ordered and waiting for them to finish the front suspension. I like to take my time with wiring and getting close to the end there. Some of the next things to do is build a drive line and get the exhaust work installed. Next week the body guy will be working on the front fenders and inner fender bubble to clear the steering pump. Once the front suspension is wrapped up I can install the sheet metal. I plan on moving it up to my front heated garage soon and get started on the interior work over the winter. No new photos today but soon. Your encouragement is appreciated and keeps me going toward my goal. Thanks!
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