For the most part, yes. The paint on the car must be an old enamel paint. I would spray a light coat of brake cleaner over the paint, and a couple minutes it would pretty much lift off. I was using a plastic putty knife but a razor blade in a scraping tool worked much better. Plus it did no damage to the primer coat underneath.
I've wire wheeled, washed and de-greased the floor pan from the bottom. I am preping for paint. Found some por-15 type paint for allot less money, and its been impressive every where i put it. Also going to add thermal ceramic spheres for some heat reflection properties. I plan on doing a side by side test of its abilities. Bought it from Hy-Tech. For 13 plus shipping i figured I'd try it. I can't afford the lizard skin at this time, and i guess they do a similar product. I've uncovered some rust issues that i don't want to repair correctly(cut out and weld in) due to time issues. How low brow trashy is a fiberglass repar? Want to take my paw in the car before he can't. Sent from my LG-LS993 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I used a grinder with a wire wheel on the bottom of my floor pan also. I just used a self etching primer and an undercoat on it. As far as the rust, I have some of the same issues as you. Some of it Im not worried about since Im not building a show car. I did use a fiberglass filler on some of the small rust spots on the body and its working fine. Im building something between a rat rod and a street rod so its not going to be perfect looking, but the drive line, suspension and brakes are all new and perfect. Heres a few crappy shots of the floor pan bottom.
I'm in the same mode you are in. Don't like the trashy rod look, and don't like the over done new car old body street rod either. This is my worst rust. In Missouri, i looked for years to find somthing this nice that i could afford!
Well, it's been a while. I have the underside of the floor pan painted, and the body back on the frame. Mounted my rebuilt distributor, rebuilt by Bubba's. Now i am in the process of rebuilding the steering box and the column. Slo and steady Sent from my LG-LS993 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Looking real good! I wanted to use my stock steering box, but it doesnt look like its gonna fit with the SBC in place. Sure wish I had access to a lift like you do! Life would be soooo much easier! I have been doing small stuff to my 41. I made new door panels and got the rear panels upholstered. Waiting for delivery of material to finish the front door panels. Kinda out of order, but with so much to do, I just go for what feels good that day...lol. I did pull the dash board out and sand it down and painted it. Had to weld in a small piece to close up the gauge panel hole to fit my new digital gauge panel in. I think it came out pretty good. I really need to start prepping the body for paint. I think that will be my next item to get done...maybe....or maybe start the wire harness......or get a new radiator...etc...etc...lol....I must keep telling myself...its a hobby....its only a hobby!!!!!!!
That dash looks great. Mine is coming out today, and i am going to paint it with the column. I just bought a small paint gun and am going to try my hand at painting. As far as the steering box goes, i think ive read where they will fit with an small block if you use early style rams horn manifolds. Glad to hear your not in the hurricane path Sent from my LG-LS993 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Im using the headers shown in the pic...similar to the ram horn but maybe still to wide. I will have to track down a pair of stock ones. I just happen to have these headers in my attic. The ram horns will be fine since this is a stock engine except for the intake and carb.
Getting ready to install the radiator, which is a reworked original unit, and i am looking for opinions on running the original 6 blade crank driven cooling fan. I have read alot of posts, but never seem to find my same scenario. I have a thoroughly scraped and cleaned block and heads, and a set of Skips waterpumps. Running 180 thermostats. I don't want to worry about overheating in traffic. Engine is stock and in good shape. Though about making a shroud to help also Sent from my LG-LS993 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Flatheads and high ambient temperatures seldom go well together. Sound like you have a good engine though. Since you are in a hurry to get this car on the road I would skip the shroud for now. If you have cooling problems later it is easy enough to pull the radiator and build a shroud.
Looking good! My SBC was running hot so I fabbed a shroud and it definitely helped. When you get to the column post some pics of the repairs...I replaced the upper bush/bearing but I need to do the lower section soon. Thanks!
I am assuming you have converted to 12 volt. If not, why not?...lol....If you are not concerned about keeping it all original....I would go right to an electric fan AND a shroud. Although I have been able to get away without the shroud when using SBC engines, I dont know anything about flat heads though. Do it right the first time and you wont have to be pulling the radiator out again later. JMHO....
I tore the box apart completely, and it was very dirty inside and out. But amazingly, even with no oil left in it it cleaned up like new. Worm and sector like new, bearings and races the same. I just cleaned it back to casting and re assembled. Working on preping the column for paint now( in between everything else). What part would you like to see? I didn't take a whole lot of pictures but i can shoot a few of what your after. I used the directions on van pelts site to reassemble and adjust the clearances. Also rebuilding the whole colunm and shift tube. I have all the parts, but i started back teaching in night school for the next 10 weeks and working a few weekends trying to evaluate candidates for employment. Now thats another sad story. Sent from my LG-LS993 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
What do you think of a shroud for the stock fan? I have sheet aluminum, and thought a simple 2 inch deep or so square might help. I am going 12 volt, and not worried about original, just didn't want to go electric if the 6 blade will get the job done Sent from my LG-LS993 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
A shroud should help. If you are covering the whole radiator with the shroud I recommend that you install some one way vents to allow air to pass through at highway speeds. This can be done with rubber gasket material. This is not a great picture but you can see the riveted on rubber flap on the top left portion of the shroud. If you want more detailed pictures of the shroud they are available on my 40 build thread or I can get individual pictures off of my other computer.
How are you rebuilding your steering box? Are you using a kit or just taking it apart, cleaning and adjusting? My stock box seems pretty tight and I may not have to rebuild, but if its simple enough, why not?
I completely tore the box and column apart. I expected to replace everything, but i couldn't find anything bad. Bearings and races perfect, and no visable wear on the worm or sector. Sector bushings also tight. So, i ordered a shim kit and lip seal. I needed to order the cover gasket but forgot, so i used silicone. I followed a set of directions of off of vanpelts web site to adjust it. It was very easy and i am glad i did it. I plan on painting the column parts and dash this weekend, and reinstalling in a week or so. Sent from my LG-LS993 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Glad to hear it was in such good shape. I'm not going to rebuild mine unless it proves necessary. Before I started this project I worked the steering pretty well and there was no noticeable play. Also, I purchased a nice set of rams horn exhaust manifolds today off Ebay that were dressed and powder coated for fifty bucks. I believe you are correct about them clearing the stock box. I am soo happy! That just cut so much labor and cost not having to buy a new box, steering column, etc... not to mention more fab work! Plus I like the look of the stock wheel. I mocked up the steering today and every thing works great. But I will have to heat and bend the steering arms on the spindles up just a little to gain a comfortable clearance from the lower bar of the 4 bar set up. I am going to order a new steering rod, since the one end cannot be replaced, just to be safe. My steering wheel is a little beat up, but will have to do for now. I do like the fact that I have the original key to unlock the column ignition switch. So now I have to wait for ups to deliver my exhaust manifolds before I know for absolutely sure it will all work. EDIT: I could not find that article you mentioned about how to adjust the box.
http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/flathead_steerngear_adjstmt1937-48.htm http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/flathead_steerngear_adjstmt-notes.htm Try these.
I was JUST looking at those instructions yesterday myself. I'm using a 37-48 box on my build too. I have 3 of them, so I may end up pulling them all apart to see if I've got good enough parts for one good one or if I gotta buy new parts. MAC's sells individual pieces BTW, so you can à la carte your rebuild needs instead of grabbing a $200 kit. Here's the stuff you may need even if your box is all good to go inside: http://www.macsautoparts.com/store/steering-box-gasket-set-7-pieces-ford-passenger.html http://www.macsautoparts.com/store/steering-sector-shaft-seal-ford-passenger.html http://www.macsautoparts.com/store/oil-600w-for-rear-end-and-transmission-1-quart-bottle-374104.html
I ordered individual parts after i opened mine up. I also went with mac's, and when you get the parts they have dennis carpenter's name on some of them, for less then he was wanting. Went with stp for the box oil. Sent from my LG-LS993 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Been searching for a cooling solution, and i think i struck gold. 19.5 inch. 2 speed even. This is the trial fit and looks promising Its also only 2 inch thick Sent from my LG-LS993 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Forgot to add, from a 2004 grand cherokee, around 100 bucks online Sent from my LG-LS993 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
What weight STP did you use? If you've got a working lube that I can get at NAPA around the corner, I'm all ears!
I used stp's engine oil additive. Has that zinc stuff in it also. Its the most fitting that i could find that was still pourable. Sent from my LG-LS993 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
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