I just bought a 48 Plymouth Coupe and It's front end has only about an inch or so of travel before it hits the bumper pad. I think the coil springs have been shortened, everything else looks right. If I replace the springs then the front will be higher than the rear. Does anyone make a sterring arm with lowered spindal mounts? The car has a great stance right now but hitting a marble in the road will about float your teeth. Any suggestions on getting a better ride and still keep it low to the road. It's all stock and I wanna keep it that way as much as possible.
Fatman Fabrication has a listing for dropped spindles / uprights for your car.......http://www.fatmanfab.com/catalogpage.php?page=17
you should also change your shock mounts. stock they connect to the upper and lower control arms. Relocate the upper mount to the frame. It works much better
The front suspension will work adequately well with cut coils if you do as hotrodbob suggests. Be sure to use a heavy duty shock absorber...the heavier the better. You can also cut the rubber snubbers down a bit for added travel...but don't remove them altogether = metal to metal. I drove mine like this for several years and it was okay. Just don't kid yourself: lowered cars don't ride very well. **** it up and live with it until you can do it right.
I have a '49 P18 that's lowered too... by cutting the coils in front, and using lowering blocks in the rear. It used to bounce like crazy and bang over every pothole - rattle your teeth. I changed the old, beat up shocks to newer models and eliminated most of the problem. Later on, I'm going to do like hotrodbob said and relocate the upper perches onto the frame, but that'll be a bit down the road for me... probably this fall when I put the Scarebird disc brake conversion on the front. Right now, it rides well enough for us!
That's exactly what I did 20+ years ago. Yeah, it hits the stops and yeah it rattles, but a lot cheaper then the fatman stuff and rids well. I'm just careful on bumps and dips. Ya also gotta check to see if the brake (disc) kit clears his stuff. Mine will not so I have not changed it. I cut 1 1/2 coils up front and re-arched the rear springs and HD Monroe gas shocks front and rear. Rears were for a Datsun P-up. I don't remember what the fronts are. I just measured the open/closed distance and went to a Monroe application book and in the back it had all the open/closed specs with the ends I needed. Build it and enjoy.
Thanks Guy's for all the info. After looking at the Fat Man stuff I also decided to stay with what I got. The former owner has already relocated the shock mounts to the frame so that's one less chore to do, I will check on the Monroes and install a better shock. I'm so excited about this car that I can think of almost nothing else, Iv'e been bit hard with the car bug and just loving it. I will get some Pics posted soon as the sun returns for good pictures. Thanks again.
Welcome to the club. You might also want to check out the P15-D24 forum http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/index.php?referrerid=1152 I have also lowered mine by cutting 1 1/4 coils in the front and adding blocks in the rear. Still need to install my discs and relocate the shocks.
if you want to get a good heavy duty shock, go to auto zone or a parts place, and order front shocks from a 1973-1987 chevy pickup. They come with the hardware to build a single sided upper mount. may work for your application if the length is right.
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