Here is what I picked up for $50 today. Basically, a 26-27 rpu cowl, dash panel and original grill shell with Ford script. No major rust, no bullet holes and no dents. The front axle was not part of this deal; however, It ended up being free after I finished selling all the stuff from it I did not need. I will make my own subframe since the back of this one is missing. My plan is to get the roadster pickup back section from Macs and then fab my own side sections since I want to make this a little longer than the original for more room. Are there modern day doors that I can use as sheet metal donors with the same curavture? I heard that beetle doors work for the model A, how about for the model T? I know I can get original sheet metal door skins, however, want to make it a little longer than original.
those t door are fairly flat other than the bead around em. i'm looking at a simmilar cowl and was thinking similar to you rpu(didnt know macs had the rear section) and thought id pick up a hf bead roller and try to make a 2" longer door
sounds good nice find id channel it a little and make a whole nice sub frame from rectangular tube. you putting it on A rails? id channel the T about 2" will look great and still feel right when siting down in it. this is my friend s 23 steel T thats channeled 1/2 way down the frame. feels right when you sit in it. http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d196/monstergarage87/Car%20Pics/DSC00815.jpg
Exactly what I was thinking. Making my own square tube sub frame and channeling it 2". The frame will be a custom job by me using square tubing.
The part number for the back I was looking at from macs is TM332PU. I was then thinking of making my own sides.
Maybe just a sloping line that cuts back a bit towards the front, sort of like a bathtub. Man, for 50 bucks, you got a steal.
Sorry forgot to mention this, I am building a rpu so I would prefer not to have a sloping line in back. The panels are c cab rear quarters from Howells. Pretty good quality for the price. I as write this, I am working on the sub frame. The more I look at it, it needs to be 5 inches shorter. Ths would also make it slightly longer than the fiberglass t bodies.
Long as you don't need the leg room! But while we're just bench racin ... how cool would it be to have a sloping back and ... wait for it ... a sloping bed rail that matched the contour?! That's be cool as snot.
I have not had the chance to work on my project for a while since I was training for the San Deigo marathon. Now that is over, and the next marathon isn't for another 6 months, I figured I get some work done. I removed all the old rusted subframe and built a new one;cut the firewall , filled all the extra holes in the dash and even built the aluminum back panels for the gauges, built the passenger door and hung it and started on the drivers side panels. I also built the frame which is Zeed in the front. The Z is in the cowl area so you will not see it. Took a whole day to weld the frame and get all the members level and square. The kick up in the back still needs to be trimmed; however, I will do that once I get an axle and tires so that I can get the stance correct. I also did a mockup using some old bike tires. Here are some pictures:
The Jalopy Journal
