I also notice you have the right side motor mount turned 180 from how I have mounted them for the FE motor. Does your Z bar sit square to the motor? You must have some tricks that I missed.
When we first placed the engine in..... It sat very far forward.The engine mounts I have.... are for a 58 332(I think)But they may be a stock 292/312 Y Block V/8 mount... I ordered them a very long time ago.Anyhow... we turned them around(motor mounts) and the engine sat back (1-1/4)---(1-1/2) which was perfect.We jacked around with lifting the driver side mount about a 1/4 inch and just offsetting the trans towards the pass. side... not a lot.....very little. Worked out very well. A very dear friend and Genuine Old Ford man told me to do this... because he did it in his 58 Ranchero in the sixties with a 406. Anyhow.... the Z-Bar is square to the engine and frame.... but needs to be shortened quite a bit(not there yet.) I am venting the engine at the rear of the intake with a standard PVC into the rear base of the last carb.Oil will also go in the PVC vent hole when I need a Oil Change.The block oil filler tube is just me cleaning up the engine.....EDIT* I will be using a short modified Oil tube in the front... have not installed as of yet. This whole build is basically a throw back to.... what would a Junior Ford Engineer do given an Old Mule car and free reign.I want to try and stay with ALL Ford Parts.......Speaking of which..... EVERYONE tells me to use a Hurst comp plus shifter and ditch the factory unit..... I'm pretty stubborn..... The Hurst is a better unit..... but..... it's not what I am looking at....... but..I may cave. My pal Rob is the Brains and thinker here... he used some stock Ford linkage and got it all together.Rob is responsible for the metal work.....well.. so is Tom the painter. Cool simple linkage.
I like your way of thinking with as much O.E. stuff as possible. With that line of thinking is it safe to assume you'll be running a factory air cleaner unit? If so have you tried it on and in place and checked Hood Latch pin to top plate for fit?
Do to lack of funds, as usual, I ended up using the stock 4 speed shifter in a 64 1/2 Mustang with a 289. I found if you keep it nice and snug on the pivot points using shims or hand filing to get it snug but smooth and some lube of your choice it worked quite well and I could powershift it without fear of missing a shift.
Wizz,.... I have a few ideas on a air cleaner..If I have too(which I may) use a standard 3x2 Ford Factory T-Bird Air cleaner..... but I have a few big old round 58-61 passenger car cleaners.... and if possible , I want to slice n dice those with a 3x2 Air cleaner base melded in..... but your right.... I need to wait until the hood is on to see clearance ...... things get tight for space.
LB, I am in the same boat..... a big ole hurst is very expensive...... We are gonna try the stock unit and see if it can work.I will follow your suggestion and see how it plays.
Your right Whizz,Room is at a premium, I am going to install a 59 hood latch which is a better design,.. as I mentioned... going to wait until all sheet metal and hood is in place before making a decision on that.
Now that's funny. I knew the latch pin on the Hood itself was a little different shape than 57-8 and I really like the change in springs but never looked close at the actual latch on my 59. I'll have to look close at it this morning and see what they changed on it. The 59 is parked right next to the Black 57 with the Hood open and I've never noticed a difference between them. Must be pretty subtle. A 1/2" there would be a big help right there.
I believe the 59 Latch has less parts and closes much easier than a 57(one finger push).... But proper maintenance is key.... It's not a big deal... but a 57 mechanism has twice the moving parts than a 57....
Hood latch up-date. Yes, Ford improved the latch unit in 59 however it is not any narrower than a 57-8 unit. Meaning bolt flange forward is 1-1/2" thick on both styles. Also in 59 Ford got a complete re designed Firewall moving the latch mount placement further back as well as turning the Hood latch pin 180 degrees. This moved the latch further away from the center of the Carb and making the motor compartment a bit longer. It appears that going to the 59 latch unit in a 57-8 Ford may make the latch work smoother but not giving us more space for the stock Tri power aluminum air cleaner. Measuring from the face of the Hood Latch on the 57 to front of Core support is 37". Same places on the 59 is 38".
Moving on details. engine dept. is being plumbed nicely.Not finished yet but the alt. is in and some brackets will be fabricated. Since the Factory in 57 stapled the rubber anti squeak rubber onto the inner fenders.... My pal Rob used 32 Ford firewall factory welting and safety wire to create an anti squeak surface, using the holes from the old staples. .... Keep it Ford.Todays Chinese rubber stinks.
So.... the only thing not Ford on this car.. is the Alternator.... why? A GM 1 wire is so less complicated and easier than Fords.(Henry Ford, forgive me) I was gonna do the small alt. in a Generator case....but, its a lot of work for not that much importance..... and as lovely as Powergens are.. too much $$$$. Again my pal Rob came up with a slick solution.Using a bracket off of a Ford piece and some home made ingenuity .... he came up with a slick and down low hidden unit.A little black paint and its good.Easy access and low... perfect.Alternators are ugly......and best to keep the crazy Uncle in the basement. A few spacers and were off to the next phase.
I'm not put off at all being Gender incorrect when changing over for easier and just as good or better works. I bet few will even notice.
I agree PnB,......With Rad hose,Heater Hose,etc,etc.... the alt. will never be seen.Access to the unit is very simple.
I like how it turned out. Might do a twin to it on my Hardtop. The later Ford units are still a can of worms to wire in.
Details are looking good. Went to bid on this Fairlane 500 this weekend but it sold a bit above my budget. The full wheel covers, skirts and continental kit may not have fit the theme but it was black and had an FE engine in it, pretty neat.
I feel like such a fan boy I really like the cars you build Jeff so I’ll have to take the time to read this whole thread and follow along. Larry
Just details. but Alt. is in and secure, Just needing to find an upper and lower rad hoses and had the Rad boiled thru Napa.. cheap....Carrying on.
I know they are just a bit spendy but you are aware you can get as Factory replacement harness, right? They are an exact plug-n-play unit and he will make mods to fit your needs cheaper than you can buy the crimp terminals to change to the G.M. alt yourself. I've done tons of hand wire jobs as well as used the Fits-all units. I went ahead and stepped up for my hardtop.
I've got a GM 10SI on my Ford engine as well. Used the OEM small block alternator bracket, installed a 3/8-16 threaded insert, so that the pivot bolt for the alternator would be a proper fit. Of course, this is on a small block Ford, so alternator is lower, but fits and wired up easy.
I should have seen this sooner, I had a 10si on my old '54 panel truck with a 390 FE in it. It was down low on the bottom like yours and I used a T-Bird mount (64 ish) and just drilled out the alt to accept a 7/16" bolt. It's the only way to get the 10si to fit as it's longer then the Ford alt.
Oh yes.I really like the unit from Narragansett,..but the cost on this project is prohibitive.Ford used a good amount of black electrical tape from the firewall forward,... so I have a fits all kit that that....It will be fine under the dash as well..I do have a complete NOS rear wiring kit from Ford for everything beyond the rear seat area. 1oldtimer-- Really like your alt. set up. using the old T-Bird brackets.Very nice and clean. I was gonna use a Ford(early mustang or Galaxie) Air co. Unit in the car which i got from good ole Flat Top Bob,.....but... I would have to change out all the pulleys and make adjustments at this point... I will use it on the next 57.
I like using the Fuel pumps with built inn filters. Upon looking close the intake nipple on that pump looks to be 1/4" not 5/16. Are you good with that? If I remember correct that application is 360 Truck motors with 2 bbl.
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