Projects My Apache...

This is a great color blue...This is the color I want to paint my Plymouth when that day comes! I want it dark dark blue with no metalic! I also love the maroon on that 32! Thats a bad ass color! Never too soon to pick out a color because if you're like me that color may change 3 or 4 times before you're ready to paint.

 

Ive changed a couple times already but im pretty sure i wanna run the dark red/maroon like that 32 with chrome steelies

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LOL...just realized I never put the picture of the blue car in the post!

 

Looks sweet. Washington blue ? Or something similar it looks like. Also i had mentioned i was painting the engine gold before, i had never seen it with dark blue, it looks good

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Well heres better pics of the trans mount. I put gussets under the stationary outer bars. The tube is then welded to a plate that is welded around the entire perimeter inside the framerail. also a pic of the dropout center section and brakes in place for good

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It's been awhile since I checked out your build( I got a new baby boy ) , looks mighty fine man!! IMO I like the chrome steelies. Keep up the top notch work.

 

Thanks man, Congrats on the baby boy ! I got a few more years before kids enter the conversation lol. And i agree i dig the chrome steelies, tho the blue color does look good with black steelies.

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Heater question, the deluxe heaters use the fancy looking dash controls with the chrome bezel n all right ? Whats the advantage of the deluxe vs a standard ? And last, i can get the whole chrome dash control unit for the deluxe brand new, can i just switch the faceplate for the gmc dash n have it work ? I found a link that i can get the longer control levers for the gmc. Im thinking just switching the levers and faceplate and it should work fine

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The deluxe has all the controls; 3spd fan, defrost, inside/outside air, and temp. Standard I never had a stock unit so can't really say; I think it is just fan/heat. I can't help you on diffs of GMC vs Chevy (mine is Chevy). Brand new might cost you plenty. I got a decent bezel and added the parts required. Just put mine in and need to finish the pics and dialog. The rubber bands for the joints are a bitch. I just used some EPDM rubber I had laying around cut into strips with double stick carpet tape.

 

Got the cab on tonight. Ill post pics soon. Gotta do the floor patch, battery door, column n other sheetmetal work

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Alright heres a few pics. i need to mock up the bed and front end eventually to see how much the front needs to come down. I finally got to sit in my truck for the first time in a LONG time tonight, felt good. I had to cut a hole in the floor for the driveshaft notch. Im gonna shave the driprail as well. The battery tucks in nicely, toeboards need patches, dash needs some massaging, column, battery door and a frenched antenna are also in the plans very soon. As well as door bottoms and a lower fender patch

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also, while putting the cab on the brake arm was depressed therefore depressing the master cylinder rod. will this cause damage to the master ?

 

The piston in the m/c? Are you asking if it could get damaged because it was dry? I don't think so? Did it get bent?

I noticed that your doors are aligned like mine... what the hell is it with the front corner of the door where it sits right under the windshield pillar? It seems to want to suck in too close to the cab and is a bitch to adjust. Seems like all these trucks have the same issues, just sayin...

 

Nothing bent, just wasnt sure if the piston being depressed would cause damage. When i had my dodge i remember reading somewhere that the piston depressed without any pressure inside the master could cause damage ?idk. And that door is just sitting there for the pic. Doesnt even have hinges on it. But i agreee, most guys catch hell with door alignment

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That corner is always a bitch.

Another alignment issue is always the spot where the lower front fender meets the door. Seems like some fenders hang down lower than the lower door sill while others match up pretty well. My passenger side fender matches well, but for some reason my drivers side hangs lower. i have heard and read that the only remedy for this is to actually cut the bottom 4 to 6 inches out, remove a small section and weld that 4 to 6 inch section back on. A few idiosyncrasies with these trucks that you can always count on...

 

I should be able to get it lined up pretty well since i have to do the lower fender patches and both lower doors. I should be able to manipulate it to fit better

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You deserve some attaboys for all this progress bud!! I admire the progress you've been making

 

Sawweeett!!! looks good.

 

Thanks guys, i knocked the battery door out. And took the old floor section from the battery door and made a bump to cover the notch hole and still have the factory lookin floor ribs..... the ass draggin stance is growin on me .......

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Very nice progress, love the battery door! If I can find a lid like that I am stealing the idea, just saying!!!

 

REALLY DIGGIN That battery set up. Mine currently sits behind my seat and I hate it. I may just steal this idea lol.

 

Thanks guys, i gotta throw another shoutout to flat top bob for the battery door and flange. Killer part and service

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Knocked out the toeboard patch tonight and finished the bump in the floor for the driveshaft notch. These little harbor freight welding clamps are awesome especially for 5 dollars

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how much space do you have between your distributor and the firewall? I'm installing my new style motor mounts and I'd like a rough starting point for measurements.

 

AH that Ive had that battery idea for my suburban since I got it. But its a far way off from worrying about the battery. But I will definitely be doing the same thing some day.

 

Dubie, ill have to measure for you, also take into account that theres an hei in there now thats as big as a barn. Thing is freakin massive, cant wait to ditch it. And thanks 58, suburbans are awesome. Love the look of em

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I'm using the Mallory Unilite and I have at least 3 inches if not more. Even with the old Accel dual point I had at least 1 1/2 inches. I'm sure the measurement will be slightly different on trucks clipped with the Camaro front end or something similar, but with the transmission bellhousing sitting on the stock mount locations, you'll have room...unless it's a HUGE HEI.

BTW: did any of you know that, even though they don't list themselves as having them, Energy Suspension has poly bellhousing (front tranny) mounts that are 1000% better than the crappy reproduction rubber ones you're going to find anywhere else? I have the part number if anyone is interested. They're around $55 for the pair.

 

I'm using the bigger HEI distributor on mine. I've always run them because they're easy to find at the local wrecker for not a lot of money and they just work for me

 

From what ive read the hei works great, and if i was keeping the 4 barrell and had a larger air cleaner to hide it i might keep it. But with the 3x2 i just want a smaller, cleaner lookin distributor. I also wanna make spark plug tubes to conceal the wires and i need to make some low mount alternator and p/s brackets

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You're honestly going to have to test fit the HEI. I've seen where they absolutely won't fit and where they will. One of the issue with these trucks is that very few of them came with V8's, so when they are upgraded years later, the engine ends up in a few different locations. My buddy has a '57 and his 350 sits about 1 inch more forward than mine does. You may or may not end up being able to run the HEI...you'll only know once you get everything mounted.