Projects My Apache...

I like the way the GMC isn't flush across like the Chevy, but I like the v shape of the Chevy. 64lesabre455 left with the other dash I was thinking of scabbing into the passenger if mine

 

And thanks red ryder we made it through the storm fine. Up north got a lot worse than us. And im going with all black on the dash. Six pack howd you make it through the storm ?

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I like the extra " roll " on the bottom of the jimmy dash and i agree the raised gauge panel is pretty cool

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My vote would go to the Chevy dash personally

 

So i just drained the oil, little dirty not too bad. Pulled valve covers, no sludge, but i have a crusty type deposit on some of the rocker arms? Ideas. Other than that not too bad. Couple plugs were fouled, but i suspect thats because i had to fire the truck up to move it and then kill it for a while

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Other than the crusty stuff everythings really clean

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Actually i think i have a head gasket issue. Oil looked fine at first but after it completely drained it had a chocolate milkish color to it. Im assuming the deposit on the rocker arms may have something to do with this ?

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Sounds like your leaking coolent into the oil. And the rocker arms did look kinda rusty. If you do change the head gaskets make sure you clean the carbon off the pistons!

 

Thanks, i will give it a good clean while im in there. Thing ran great, i was pretty suprised to see water in the oil. No biggie i guess tho. Just more damn work

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So i killed my last flap wheel on the frame, i decided to pull the trans and get that outta the way. Came out pretty easy. Last transmission i pulled was out of a cummins so this was like a box of feathers to lift compared to that tank. Both the trans and rear are for sale guys. Trans has a b&m converter and fairbanks shift kit. 10 bolt has 3.73 gears. ill have them in the classifieds

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back to the clutch setup, does anyone have advice for a framerail mounted power brake/hydro clutch setup ?

 

i try to get work done on the truck every day if i can. as of now not a lot going on. as i said before i had some serious setbacks with tax return from last year. i got my state a few weeks back. federal just came in and will be cleared for friday soooo, a miller 211 is coming soon

also, ive been raking in some ot at work lately, so im starting to think about a set of heads for the small block. im gonna tear it down anyway after the coolant issue i found. right now i have early 70's heads 74cc chambers. not exactly great for making power. vortecs are tempting but far from traditional, and i cant stand the valve cover bolts. aftermarket heads are plentiful but most arent budget friendly. if it went to that im half tempted to sell the mill i have and save money from other parts i have, and do the goodwrench crate for $1900. and id have a warantee on top of it. idk guys. we will see. the motor i have ran great, but was a bit low on power. if i saved my money from parts i sold i can almost makeup $1100 towards the crate. these are just ideas, i like the thought of a engine under warantee in a daily driver though. and i know the muncie and 9 inch are stout as shit so that would ease my mind on the entire drivetrain. opinions, thoughts, lemme hear fellas.

 

Small update, well its a HUGE update in my mind. Miller 211 is on the way. Had a holiday deal online so i got gloves, helmet and cart for discounted prices. I cant wait !

In other news. Im talking to a few people about trading my extra 4 bolt main block and crank for a set of camel humps. Should shoot my compression up a bit and keep me away from the fugly ass vortecs. The lunati cam with lifters im looking at is $196. So depending on the condition of the heads i get and if they need machining, id like to keep the engine work under 500 bucks total. I think i have dished pistons, possibly flat tops. We will see. Flat tops will probably be in the 10:1 area.

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Sweet, that is the one I wanted to get but just couldnt justify the price. You should be able to do pretty much anything with that one...

 

It was a bit pricey but overall i think itll be worth every penny. And itll do both frame and sheetmetal work. My buddy nick has a lincoln mig, its actually the one we did the notch on my truck with. It sells new for 4200 bucks. he bought it for 900 and fixed a few issues to get it running again. Long story short he said the miller 211 welds as well as his big ass lincoln. Not quite as thick, but lays down just as nice of a bead. I cant wait man. Ive been wanting this thing for over 6 months

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yeah the shops around here that do some high end cars only use a Mig-135 for their bodywork. What do you need to do on the frame?

Looking forward to more progress

 

Not a lot left on the frame. I wanna cap of the frame horns on the clip and just fill all the holes in the clip as well. I need to make little step notches for the cross members to clear the driveshaft. Speaking of which, can someone measur the clearance between the cab floor and top of the crossmember under the rear of the cab ? Id appreciate it



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Awesome work! Love the body style !!!

 

I will try to measure it for you when I hop back out there later tonight to take some pictures

 

Not a lot goin on today. Little more work on the frame. I cut off the crap brackets and cleaned up the rad support as well. The welding cart, rolls of wire, gloves, helmet and all the misc stuff came in the mail friday. The actual welder will be here tomorrow

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im going to por15 the frame. my dad has some left over from his old pickup. has anyone had any experience with using por after it sat on a shelf for extended periods of time ? its been 5 years easily. paint is still liquid, not hardened at all anywhere. i googled it and everyone says it has a horrible shelf life. mainly that it hardens up in the can. most people said if its liquid itll still work fine ?

 

Also does anyone know how much travel the clutch pedal has from engaged to disengaged ? I have 5 inches of travel before the clip interferes with pedal travel. I was thinking hydro but im determined to make this work

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I had problems with the por 15 hardening around the lid. I guess the stuff gets trapped int he ring after pouring it out and the lid goes on and then dries . Although after cutting the lid off with tin snips the remains in the can were still good though(a year later). I've heard of putting some sort of plastic bag between the lid and can before u hammer it on.

 

I'll measure it tomorrow after work unless someone else gets to it sooner. I think you're right at your limit there...it just looks tight. Just so you know, you can shorten the pedal. I shortened mine 1.5 inches so that I didn't have to lift my foot so high to get on top of the pedal. My legs are long and I was constantly hitting the steering wheel.

As far as rear cross member clearance to the cab. I'll have to measure that one too, but I don't remember it being more than a couple inches...if that.

 

Yea matt, my dad put plastic between the lid and can when he sealed it. So that seemed to help a lot. And i may shorten the pedal. I just need to clear the frame first. I need to get that 4 speed mocked up asap

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The master cylinder I used was the early to mid sixties OE Corvette dual master originally used for front discs. After researching the ones being offered by CPP and SS Brakes I discovered that this is the one they sell in their kits with a pricey markup.. I think I paid $60. I ordered the CPP bracket by itself and then created my own pushrod assembly. The bracket from CPP bolts onto the existing bracket and everything else is fairly straightforward from there. Since there are two outlets on the dual reservoir MC you run the front reservoir to the front brakes and the rear to the rear...pretty simple. I split the front brakelines using a y-block right about 6 inches from the inlet...I mounted that y-block to the frame just behind the MC. I can take photos...it was a pretty clean install.

 

Please do, i need to figure something out. I refuse to use hanging pedals !!!!

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So I measured the clutch pedal. Keep in mind that mine is 1.5” shorter. When I measured the lowermost point (where the clutch pedal bolts to the clutch lever) is 1.5” from being tangent with the very top edge of the frame. Basically, if my pedal were uncut and the pedal completely to the floor, the bottom most corner of that assembly would be tangent (would just barely make contact) with the top corner / edge of frame. I was trying to imagine a way that you could bend the lever, but anything you do will change it from being linear and you would then be putting shear on that mechanism…you may need to notch that section of the frame.

To figure it out you'll need to draw a horizontal line through the grafted clip and see where the original frame would / should be.

As far as shortening the pedal goes, mine was done about a year ago, but it was based on measurements I took showing that there was almost 2" that were unnecessary in that pedal length. This was based on freeplay at the top of the pedal before it engaged and how much linkage adjustment I had available on the clutch armature (threaded part on the fork that is double nutted for adjusting purposes).

I still have about 1" of play at the top of the pedal and may readjust so that it is only 1/2". To really know if this worked or not I will have to drive the truck, but that will be at least another month.

Wish this was more help.

 

im confused.... not surprising lol. you shortened the arm coming through the floorboard right ? so regardless of that arm length the pedal should require the same travel to engage and disengage the clutch. i guess an easier way to think of it would be unbolt the actual pedal rod that comes through the floor, and measure how much travel the lower arm needs through the clutch engagement. i may be misreading what you wrote though, its happened numerous timess haha

 

nevermind i understand what youre saying now. i was thinking of bending the arm as well but decided i better not. i guess ill be shortening the pedal. i really need to get the cab, 4 speed and all the linkage in to really take a look at this