I'm not really bragging. The friend that rebuilt my '40 Ford banjo diff. who will remain anonymous because he wouldn't take more than what I think must have been minimum wage from me and doesn't want guys breaking down his door advised me to get the '47-'48 Ford big axle nuts. He mentioned that Don at "Dons Antique Auto Parts" in Niles Ca. should have them. At the time I wondered what the difference could be and why I should go to the trouble, but thought it might be a good chance to visit Don. Don is quite a character at the Bay Are Swaps for as long as I can remember and I am 70+ myself. He must be in his 80s. I found his phone # on the internet (Just google the above) and called him. He said he had some but thought they were put on Merc's and Lincoln's. He wouldn't quote a price but said it would be reasonable. When I got there he said that I might be right that they were used on '47-48 Fords. Guys if you ever get a chance to visit Don do it. What an interesting guy. Anyway after I got the "big nuts" home I figured out what the big deal is. The small older axle nuts are 15/16th in diameter and the last 1/4 in. is turned down to about 7/16th and distorts so the last few threads really don't do much. The big nuts are 1 1/4 and have strong threads all the way to the end and with torque of 150 lbs + you need all the strong threads you can get. The small nut is laying on top of the BIG one.
Really George if your running a banjo rear the BIG NUTS give you about 4 extra tight strong threads. It scares me to death putting 150+++lbs torque on old worn axles threads. Gary
Never knew exactly what those big axle nuts came on, but in my early days along about mid 50's around oval tracks with old Fords, these nuts plus some special axle keys Honest Charley's Speed Shop sold were the last step before going to full floater rear axles and hubs. The locked rear axles took their toll on axle key as well as axles as cars got bigger, more powerful engines and wider tires with more traction.
I bought a pair of those "big nuts" at a Model A shop a few years ago???? I figured they were for A's. Tim
absolutely. I definitely need some for the '39, with 3300lbs, a solid lifter olds and a cad trans, the banjo in that thing is going to need all the help it can get.
George, Can the original Rear End survive with your combo? A little Clutch Dump at a light........ Keyways, and Old Tech Axles are great until they meet their match. I am thinking if you build one of your Engines a "Beefy" Rear is a must!
Its iffy I think, but I really want to keep the banjo/torque-tube. Its not that strong, around 350hp by my guesstimations/simulations, and the tires are gonna be hard and skinny. I'm counting on 760-15 bias plies to be the "fuse" in the circuit. But clutch dumps are out...
George Your Canadian friend has a point. When you get behind the wheel will the new new family man school counselor be sitting there or the old Heavy right foot twitchy left foot George be sitting there. Believe me I'm not trying to talk anybody out of a banjo doff. they look so right. You know how much self control you have better than I. I too have narrow bias ply tires and keep a full 32+ lbs in them. I never do dump the clutch but on the light T roadster it isn't hard to break them loose even after the clutch is out. Gary
George, there are ways to convert that banjo axle to later, non keyed axles. We used to do it on the old oval track cars using the outer stub of a 3/4 ton rear housing hung on a passenger housing using the backing plate flanges of both, bolted together, then use the full floater hubs and drums from the 3/4 ton along with 2 short side axles. And today there are ways to use 9" axles in a banjo. All of these take machine work and lots of measuring. But why?????? You've said it's a '39 Ford, and unless you plan on a helluva rake, nobody is going to see the rear axle housing without getting down on the ground to look! Do it now before it's finished and painted, because just think of akll the stuff you'll have to do all over again when you get sick and tired of twisted axles and busted wheel keys..
I would like to add to my earlier post. I never, ever imagined that I would be posting in a thread Titled "My Big Nuts" That's all............
I am that guy you see kneeling down and looking under cars at car shows... I think the banjo will probably be ok, like I said the tires are skinny, and the motor isn't that strong, and the banjo is in keeping with the theme for the rest of the build. I also don't really plan to beat this car like a red-headed stepchild, its not going to be a really quick car anyway, and I have other O/T cars that are MUCH faster, that I DO beat like red-headed step children, so when I get a wild hair up my ass, this wont be the car I take out anyway. I really think it will be ok.
I left the banjo in my '48 Ford. It has way too much power in front of it too. Loaded '55 El Darado. I'm pretty sure it's 4-11 any that is what Don above told me was in most '48s and it just feels that low and sucks gas like low gears. You just have to remember not to dump the clutch. You'd be surprised how many guys lay on their bellies looking under cars at shows or anyplace we see one. I saw this bitchen stock green '40 Ford at LARS a couple of years ago. The only thing I could see that didn't look stock was a small V on the speaker grill. I saw it later at So. Cal. Speed shop with the hood up. It had the same engine that my '48 has. The little V was a Cad. emblem. Looking under it it had the banjo with heavy overload springs and a crate of Mason Jars in the trunk. Wish I had taken some pictures of it. Gary
Geezzz, can't believe I opened a post about Big Nuts. Once I started reading I relaxed a bit. I got to the part about late axles and looking under cars and then I knew I was in good company. I do the same thing and I agree in most early Ford's a Banjo rear is a must. I've also had the Key way Blue's. In most cases looks mean more than how it works. I wanted more without it looking wrong so with some help I went to 28 spline 9" truck axles without cutting the bell flange off. I was able to retain the Stock spring hanger as well as the 4 bolt flange so my rear bones and Ford tube shock mounts still bolted on as if stock, and they are. No fabbed brackets welded to my Bell end housings. My next move is to machine the early rear hubs so I can add them to the 9" axle flange so it still looks stock from both underneith and at the front side of the wheel. I'm getting there and I'll add those "Big Nuts" to the threaded ends as if they still were holding my brake drums on. The Wizzard
man, I got some serious air cleaner envy now! I've been wanting a pair of those for some time now, nice! The guy who sold me my car thinks it had 3.78's in it. It's supposed to be the "family" hot rod, so if they are, I wont change them, but for most of my driving running around town here, it wouldn't break my heart at all if it had 4.11's in it. Honestly, with the weight and 29.5" tires with 3.78's, I am worried its going to be pretty gutless.
You know George I found those air cleaners on evilbay. In fact I found the engine the same place. My roadster has 3.78's, and they are perfect for a light car. You will like them in your '39. If I ever have to tear my '48s banjo apart I think I'll put some speedway 3.50s in there. It'll probably feel like taking off in second but it'll be nice on the highway.
I know the 3.78's are gonna be too tall for me around town. They will be a good compromise on the highway, but I hardly ever drive on the highway. To put it in perspective, my daily weighs about the same as what I guess the '39 will wiegh, has tires 1.5" shorter, is currently 50hp up on the olds (should be about 100 pretty soon), and has 4.56's. I consider them about perfect in town. You gotta realise, the convert is probably about 1200/1300lbs heavier than your roadster, its pretty heavy, and even the 7.60-15's are TALL. I'll give 'em a shot, hell they will probably stay in there, but my guess is, for 90% of my driving, I am gonna be wanting more gear. Gotta start watching the bay for air cleaners.
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