my 54 customline with 302 wont run unless i unhook the vac*** line going to booster,and leave unpluggeg wide open as soon as i put my finger over the hose the car dies.i put on new fuel filters and rebuilt carb didnt help.thanks
I think your car hates you. "Mystery" problems like yours are usually something so basic you miss them. So... Go back to Step 1 and start over. Check all your hose connections (be sure all the hoses go to the right place...don't just ***ume here, get a reference book and be sure). Then check all the normal things like timing, vacuum advance operation, float level, etc. - everything vacuum-related that could effect the proper operation of the engine. Again, don't just guess. Borrow the proper diagnostic tools if you don't already have them - timing light, vacuum guage, etc. - and use a reference book to get the proper specs for your specific engine. My thought is that your problem is either a switched vacuum hose somewhere, improper timing or a bad vacuum advance unit...or a combination of these three. (It's easy to leave something mis-adjusted during the trouble-shooting process. This unintentional change will then mask the real problem.) I'd leave the carburetor for last since you've replaced it recently and the problem predates the carb replacement. I'm pretty sure that when you take a deep breath and do a slow, step-by-step trouble-shooting sequence you'll find the problem very quickly. Good luck!
Where is the vacuum line to the brake booster tied into? It should be manifold vacuum, not carb vacuum. The source for vacuum for the trans and booster was usually located (stock) on the rear of the manifold. There was a big *** block fitting with one big diameter tubing (3/8 I think) flare fitting for the booster. There also was some smaller ******s for push on tubing for the other vacuum accessories and the trans. Got a hole for a fittng back there?
the car runs on its own now,adjusted the carb,changed out a vac*** line i think had a little break in it.so now with brake booster vac*** hooked up i have no pressure on the brake pedal goes right to ground with no resistence.original pedal newer booster and master cylinder.could this be a bad booster and if so is there a way to test?thanks
If the pedal goes to the floor then I think its a bad master (new ones can be bad). If a booster failed, doesn't the brake pedal stay high but hard as hell????
i already bleed the brakes, the rears are adjusted the front are disk,the car brakes great with the booster not hooked up.so im guessing i still got a vac*** problem somewhere or bad booster.
If the brakes work ok without vacuum to the booster, but don't when it's hooked up sounds like you've found the problem. If you have access to a hand-held vacuum pump (MightyVac?) you could check whether or not the booster diaphragm is ok...