my &%*&^$ car won't start AGAIN.....

I'm sick of this*****...battery is good, got power at the switch, starter was rebuilt a couple months ago, and starting a little while ago it won't start without stickin' some jumper cables or a battery charger on it. What the hell is the problem? I'm gonna be PISSED if i have to send the starter off again....

 

Battery connections good...clean and TIGHT?

Battery good? (Have it load tested...don't just use a voltmeter)

Cables in good shape and tight?

Just ot get ya started. (Most parts stores will load test your battery for free...and many will test starters for free as well.)

 

the battery was replaced when the starter was rebuilt, and the alternator was checked then as well. New battery cable ends that are tight. I work at one of those*****ty parts stores that do all those tests....

 

same here I am stuck at work now, and my car is dead. But I have a short somewhere thats causing my problem.

 

Did you replace the cables? HRP

 

didnt' replace them, just cut the old ends off so there was new wire exposed and slapped the new ends on it. I JUST fixed the stripped wheel studs in my work parking lot, got halfway home, and stopped to help a woman with a flat. After she left, my car wouldn't start until I got a jump. got home, shut it off, cranked it immediately back up (just to check) and it seemed fine. went back to leave again after about 10 minutes, and it won't start...this is gonna be my only car for a couple of weeks, so i HAVE to get this taken care of so i won't lose my job....

 

Does it just click or does it groan like it wants to crank?

 

not even a click....

 

<font color="green">Do you have a good ground strap between the motor and frame? </font>

 

Did you use the old solinoid?

 

Your car and my car should get together... I think they have the same personality!

 

What did you do last time to fix this problem? HRP

 

ok, so now it'll start....wtf? solenoid getting hot? if that is the case, how do you stop it?

 

ford or chevy?

 

pontiac...389

 

[ QUOTE ]
<font color="green">Do you have a good ground strap between the motor and frame? </font>

[/ QUOTE ]

I agree, a ground some will work some magic.

A buddy of mine replaced his solenoid, alternator, starter, and battery cables and it still would only start every now and then, but would start when it got a jump because of the ground on the jumper cables.

Ran a ground from the motor to the frame, started on the first crank.

Geno

 

i can try that, but I dont' understand why it would start after you let it sit for awhile, if a ground strap is the problem. There is something you can add to the wiring or somethign to let keep the solenoid from getting too hot isnt' there? I thought it'd been mentioned to me before, but I can't remember it....

 

next time it does it check for battery voltage at the starter terminal. U should have at least 12volts at the starter.

Have someone crank it make sure it still has power there, if it doesn't you probably have a battery problem or cable problem.

If that checks ok then check the smaller terminal (usually purple wire) or marked SOL while cranking you should get power there. IF no power while cranking the problem is in the ignition switch or wiring from it. If you have full power at both terminals while cranking then it is a starter solonoid problem. Replace the solonoid. If you get stuck you can jump across the terminals and if its just sticking the amperage will open it(make sure its in park!) , but if its shorted out inside it won't.
Just PM me if you need more help.

 

Are all the wires to the ignition tight,,,,check the wires on the coil,,,,does it have a ballist resister? if so,it needs to read between 4 and 8 volts,,,,,

 

maybe that's what I need, the ballast resistor. I dunno what the hell that is so that's probaly it. What should it look like, and if theres not one what should I get to put on it? Remember it's advance auto I work at so hopefully it'll be something we carry...

 

Heat sheilds and secondary starter solonoid are great if you are getting heat soak, usaully if you have headers that run real close to the starter you get this problem.
If the starter motor turns real slow after its been run for a bit its usually heat soak. Your problem sounds more like a solonoid problem though.

We get lots of bad starter parts.
Just run through the check list before throwing parts at it.

 

ballast resistors are on the ignition side of the system not the starter.

 

[ QUOTE ]
not even a click....

[/ QUOTE ]HRP

 

ok so if i pick up a ballast resistor tonight, which wire does it need to be in line with?

 

Had a 61 Buick that acted like that. The solonoid housing got skratched inside and wouldn't do anything when hot.
The way I found out what was wrong was at a drive in. Got some cold water and poured on the solonoid and it fired right up. Change solonoid, problem solved.

 

the resistor goes between ignition switch and coil

 

ok, then i know theres no ballast resistor on there, so I'll see if I can do something about that tonight. thanks

 

Ballast resistors do not have anything to do with the starting system. They are used to restrict the current flow to the points in the distributor.

Make certain your battery cable connections are clean and tight. Make certain your battery cable connections are clean and tight. Make certain your battery cable connections are clean and tight. Did I mention to check your cables? Its IMPORTANT to have GOOD CONNECTIONS. Positive AND negative.

If you still have problems after cleaning / checking your CONNECTIONS, you need to connect a test light from the 'S' terminal on the starter solenoid to ground (the purple wire on a GM vehicle). Turn the key to the 'crank' position and observe the test light when the problem occurs. If the light comes on while you are holding the key in the crank position, and all of your cable CONNECTIONS are CLEAN AND TIGHT, replace the starter****embly (starter and solenoid), OR try a heat shield. If the light does not light, find the reason for no power to the wire in the crank position. Possible causes would be: the ignition switch, loose connection in the bulkhead connector (firewall pass-through connector), neutral safety switch, broken wire, just to name a few.

I've been a Chevrolet Technician for 16 years. 95% of the starting problems I've seen over the years have been LOOSE OR DIRTY BATTERY CABLE CONNECTIONS. Don't just check the connections at the battery. The connections at the starter solenoid and the engine block NEED to be clean and tight as well. From the problem you are describing, it sounds like a bad connection or a heat soak problem.

PM me and let me know if I can be of any help to you. Good luck and check those connections!

LP

 

LoudPedal I'm gonna print your post off and give copies to every one I know, that is the best advice I've heard all week.

 

i just called my store and no luck on the heat sheild, they don't carry them anymore and were unsure if they could order one for my car. any ideas on what I could use for one?