Projects My Deuce Coupe Project

Thanks for the suggestion, I priced the repair.... way too expensive compared to a replacement rail. Ben has since sourced a replacement rail from Gerald Clancy. I just need the blessing of the Engineer now before work can begin.

 

That is one sweet build. That sucks about the frame hopefully you can figure it out though.

 

I can't imagine being under the microscope of an "engineer" during a build. It would be especially frustrating to know that he didn't know as much as you about the whole deal, just have a "title' to justify his directives.
Keep posting your progress, your going to have a great ride when your done.

Frank

 

At the risk of sounding like a smart-ass...... so, this engineer won't allow the use of a pair of replacement (as in new) frame rails to replace bad originals........ but he will permit one replacement (I'm guessing it is "new") rail to replace an unfixable original one. Has this engineer considered that an original rail and a new replacement rail may not flex (in every day usage) the same and cause less than ideal handling characteristcs? Sometimes when you see a dude wearing a pinky ring (engineer) he proves to be quite clever......... sometimes...... not so much.

 

Cool thread, hope you get it all sorted.

 

Hey Tinmann,

That is the world we live in here in The southern state of Oz (Victoria). Unless this is deemed to be an Original Frame, then I can't register it with full unrestricted registration. I'd have to register it under our Club Permit Scheme which restricts me to driving to sanctioned club events only or places of repair......

But wait there is more to come.... There is the Brake test, which will be fun as I'll have Drums all round and they don't like that. The Visibility test, as I'll be running a chopped 3 window I'll need to be able to see the overhead Traffic lights from a normal seated position stopped at the lights and whaever other crap they come up with.

 

The 3W has already been Engineer approved so that shouldn't be an issue.

 

Maybe not the best of starts but you've got the ball rolling and I'm sure it'll come along just nicely!

Keep us updated.........

HC.

 

Tinmann....

You guys over there get ready; CA has already gotten the ball rolling with the declaration that using aftermarket frames puts you in the modern vehicle registration category....and they are going to enforce it. Its been discussed ad nauseum on the HAMB before.

That means when the other states over there figure out how much revenue they can also make from policing this....you will be in the same boat as we are here.

This has huge repurcussions for your chassis/body industry ...Im sure you know what I mean.

Bottom line ? Use an aftermarket frame (despite how logical it is to do so re strength, rigidity, handling, engineering principles etc) then it will be registered as a 2010 or the year it is presented for registration in your State's DMV. that means an current , emissions friendly engine/fuel/exh system....

BTW, GM is happy to help you guys out when the new regs hit.

Getting over brake/visibility issues isn't a problem.

Rat

 

You know, at time like this it's good to live in QLD. Repro frames are fine for all rego.

I know you guys have been through this a million times, but can't just glue some pitted frame into repro rails and have them blasted? Obviously your current engineer would be wise to this, but I dunno....sheesh!

 

...and somehow amongst all this, rat bastad manages to stay perfectly clean while pulling apart grotty old flatheads.

This'll be a cool build, no doubt about it.

 

Things are still moving a little slower than I would have hoped.

A New Frame Rail has been sourced, but it's a Repro Rail. I am now waiting on the OK from the Registration Board, via the Engineer, that I can replace the Coroded Rail with a new one. In the meantime the frame is in the Jig with Front & Rear Crossmembers in their spot ready for welding.

I did progress with the Gearbox set-up. The original Bellhousing was machined to suit the Toyota 5 Speed Gearbox and the Crank was machined to accomodate the Spigot Bearing. I mocked it all up and it worked perfectly....... One of the few things that have gone right on this build so far.

In this pic you can see the locating Ring that was fabricated along with the New Gearbox Mounting Holes


Here is the back of the Bellhousing where you can see the old Bolt Plugs and the locating ring.


Here is the input shaft where it meets the Crank, minus the Spigot Bearing


Here it is again with the Spigot Bearing


Here it is all mounted together.


I also managed to locate a Diff which is the perfect size (36.5 inches from Drum face to Drum Face). It is a Borg Warner 3.89 ratio that was used in the Chrysler Centura here in Australia. I removed the original mounting brackets and it is now ready for it to have the mounts to accept the 36 Bones fabricated.



The Diff and the Engine/Gearbox will head over to Lowsquires for the Chassis Mock-up once I get the OK to proceed from the Engineer

I got a little bored so I decided to get a little ahead of myself and choose an Engine Colour. So one head was painted Red and the other one a Dark Green.... what do you say? Red or Green?

 

Keep the faith dude - projects always hit snags, and you're handling them brilliantly.

As for the color of the heads - I like them both. But I think I love the dark green!

Mike

 

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Hmmmm,your allowed some super kool legal number plates in Oz,I don,t think you snagged THX138?Amazing determination here,mate,good luck.
I notice Doc of the 42.ooo threads hasn,t chipped in his 2 bob,s worth,is he ok

 

Green... green is nice. LOL

 

I like the Green, but i'm biased

 

I'd go with green too. It would limit your exterior colors somewhat though...

 

(36.5 inches from Drum face to Drum Face). ??

May be a tad narrow ...

 

It is narrower than a usual set up but I've seen it work. I want to bring the Tires in close to the body rather than have them sticking out. I may have an issue with fitting the Cycle Guards, that I'd need for Registration purposes, but I've got a thought around that issue already.

I chose the Green because I read somewhere that Every Ford Flathead came out in Green from the Factory, plus it's not too common out there.

 

OZRAT...brother you have my admiration! i could never go thrue all of that hassel. i've never seen an engine as bad, those block cracks are usualy what make them run hot. just remember DUICE'S WILD has a new block. i truely admire your persistant's, and wish you well on your build. you certainly deserve a fine hotrod. your new friend in texas U.S.A.----POP.

 

Jim- As qzjrd5 said, keep your faith and the reward will be indescribable at the end!

To be honest with you, red is the go but, green will sure separate you from the rest which is what Hot Rodding is all about!

Also, are those Offy's Franks old ones?

HC.

 

Errr...I think I've seen that trans/machined crank combo before....nice !!

Those heads look familiar too !

Brootal....grungy Flatheads are where its at haha. Takes a deft touch with old tools and Corey's rubber surgical gloves !

Speaking of which....the new and improved Nastius Flattius Maximus is on the drawing boards. Stay tuned for a HAMB update.

TOR...Green IS nice....red is everywhere.

Rat

 

Green.....




But I'm bias

 

I take it the heads were yours Rat........

HC.

 

I am interested in knowing how they know it is a aftermarket frame or not.If you cut the serial number from the old frame and do a good job welding it in.Grind and dress your welds and then sand blast the rails.How can they tell if it is then aftermarket? How much of the stock frame will pass?? do you need to retain 100% of the rail? what about Z notchs? this is very interesting.You guys down under have your work cut out for you.

 

Ozrat, you're a real aussie battler. Keep at it, I bet the first drive round the block will make all the struggles with the red tape boys worthwhile.

 

Aftermarket rails do look different. The Reveal along the side is slightly different, Metal thickness is different and the section where the front Bolt hole for the Firewall is not indented. Then there is the wear that 70 years does to metal that is a giveaway. The Engineer I have working with me is understanding and helping as best as he can. He is now just waiting for the OK from the Registration Board. Once I get the clearance I will be using the entire Repro rail rather than cutting the bad sections out of the original rail. I'll also be issued with a State Registration number so will lose the original Ford Serial No.

Thanks for everyone's Opinion..... Green is the colour

 

I'm pretty sure that diff is 56.5 inches wide, not 36.5.

 

Yeah, correct 56.5 inches...... sometimes my fingers have a mind of their own when I type.