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My first 32 Chevy build

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Carl5Coupe, Jan 18, 2011.

  1. 94hoghead
    Joined: Jun 1, 2007
    Posts: 1,289

    94hoghead
    Member

    Great start! gonna be a very cool car. Glad to see the straight axle made its way back under the fron end.
     
  2. TFoch
    Joined: Mar 31, 2010
    Posts: 2,389

    TFoch
    Member

    Great car, good luck with it. I'm building a 33 Chevy Cabriolet. Replacing the wood can be done.
     
  3. Carl5Coupe
    Joined: Oct 31, 2010
    Posts: 601

    Carl5Coupe
    Member
    from Buford Ga

    Thanks for all the input guys, It great to see that there are so may Chevy lovers out there. I found a rear today, 1995 4x4 Jimmy 3.73 locker. I pick it up in the morning.

    Carl
     
  4. Carl5Coupe
    Joined: Oct 31, 2010
    Posts: 601

    Carl5Coupe
    Member
    from Buford Ga

    The frames has come along well. We primed the frame painted the front-end. I still have alot of welding to do and I want to put in a X brace. That will come after the motor and rear are installed so that I can what I have to work with.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  5. Carl5Coupe
    Joined: Oct 31, 2010
    Posts: 601

    Carl5Coupe
    Member
    from Buford Ga

    I plan on doing some wood work but also plan on putting in a good bit of steel in the body. My dad has a wood shop in North Carlina, I was thinking about taking the car up there for a week and seeing how much we can replace and then replace the rest with 1x1 steel. Either way it looks like that will be the fun part. I like fabing up steel so after the frame and motor are in the body will be next. Some time later this spring to summer. If I run out of money the body will get started sooner since I have most of that laying around.

    Carl
     
  6. Ghost28
    Joined: Nov 23, 2008
    Posts: 3,192

    Ghost28
    Member

    Dang that frame is looking good. Are you gonna have to or did you notch the underside of the frame where the transverse spring travels? The reason I ask is I had to put notches in both of my old chevy frames for clearance once the weight is on it.
     

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  7. Carl5Coupe
    Joined: Oct 31, 2010
    Posts: 601

    Carl5Coupe
    Member
    from Buford Ga

    Ghost, yeah I did notch the frame. Then I had a bunch of friends jump up and down on it to make sure I had clearance. Yours is looking good also. Looks like AC is on the list. So is this where you are now or is this something that was done a while back? Did you have to have a custom cut drag link made or did you make it your self? Im thinking about buying the two taps and doing it my self.
     
    Last edited: Jan 23, 2011
  8. Carl5Coupe
    Joined: Oct 31, 2010
    Posts: 601

    Carl5Coupe
    Member
    from Buford Ga

    Its Sunday night and the wife Deb has helped me all weekend hunt down a new rear in the junk yards. So its time to clean up some old dirt track wheels I bought the other day and do a dry fit but first they need to be cleaned up. Now this is a good women. Get down and dirty baby. Hears another cold one.

    [​IMG]
     
  9. Ghost28
    Joined: Nov 23, 2008
    Posts: 3,192

    Ghost28
    Member

    Friends jumping on your frame that's what I did also. This is the 28 chevy that I sold but still building and it's this way as of now. Yeah ac was planned for this car all along, brake lines next then exhaust. The drag ling I ordered to size from speedway, but damned if I didn't order it too short, so I spliced it with a solid piece of steel on the inside and welded it back together, then for good measure I tapped a bolt into it.
    To make it your self using a left and right tap you could do it, but it might be cheaper to just buy it unless your gonna do quite a few.
     
  10. mink
    Joined: Oct 4, 2007
    Posts: 1,331

    mink
    Member
    from CT

    Drums or Disc? You may have some trouble the rear has disc in the rear. The brake spe******t told me to run drums in the read with my front disc setup. But that was for manual breaks and a corvette master.
     
  11. mink
    Joined: Oct 4, 2007
    Posts: 1,331

    mink
    Member
    from CT


    Save your self the h***tle and have speedway do it for 80$
     
  12. Ghost28
    Joined: Nov 23, 2008
    Posts: 3,192

    Ghost28
    Member

    I did buy that 32 cowl. Kinda rough, but it will be good for parts.
     

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  13. chopper526
    Joined: Sep 12, 2010
    Posts: 252

    chopper526
    Member
    from Phila., PA

    Carl5Coupe, how do you do it? My wife just walks in the garage, smiles, shakes her head and walks out.
     
  14. Carl5Coupe
    Joined: Oct 31, 2010
    Posts: 601

    Carl5Coupe
    Member
    from Buford Ga

    I'm running drums on the rear, the rear I bought today has just about new breaks on it and the drums are in great shape. I'm thinking that all I have to do is hook up the break lines and go, so I'm good there. I bought a proportioning valve to help with the pressure between the front and rear. I can run the break lines after I build the X bracing on the frame and mount the master cylinder. Here we gooooo and the swamp man says!!
     
  15. Carl5Coupe
    Joined: Oct 31, 2010
    Posts: 601

    Carl5Coupe
    Member
    from Buford Ga

    I hope that I don't need anything but gl*** on my 31, I have a gl*** guy at work that will be buying my gl*** from and he thinks has a supplier for rubber. Does anybody know where to get the windshield and side gl*** rubber?

    As for the wife, I met her when she was putting air shocks on her Bonneville back in the day. All I had to do was hand her the tools. She is the best. :)

    Carl
     
  16. Ghost28
    Joined: Nov 23, 2008
    Posts: 3,192

    Ghost28
    Member

    Proportioning valve is a good idea, but you will also need if your master cylinder is under the floor is a #10 residual valve for the rear and a #2 residual valve for the front to keep the fluid from rolling back towards the master culinder and loosing your brakes.
     
  17. Carl5Coupe
    Joined: Oct 31, 2010
    Posts: 601

    Carl5Coupe
    Member
    from Buford Ga

    Thanks Ghost
    I will be making an order with Speedway this week and I will get the valves on order. I found that the Vega steering box need the pitman arm replaced. The stock one won't work, I'm also going to get a the drag link. Things are looking better.
     
  18. Carl5Coupe
    Joined: Oct 31, 2010
    Posts: 601

    Carl5Coupe
    Member
    from Buford Ga

    I twisted my back last Sunday so work has been slow this week. I put in the new rear I had to move the spring plates to align with the springs, I tacked the rear in place but will need to be adjusted after the motor is in. I also painted the front rims and mounted the tires. I hope to mock up the motor again this week after I paint it. The motor will need a rebuild I'm sure but for now I'm going to clean it up, put it in and see how things fit.

    I moved up the motor mounts to make some room for the steering box. I hope its not to high. Can it be to high, if so is there a height that I should be looking for?

    I have a set of 10X15 rims but it seems that tires are expensive. I might go back with 8" rims just to help the cost. Any input on tires would be a help.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 30, 2011
  19. Tudor
    Joined: Aug 20, 2003
    Posts: 6,911

    Tudor
    Member
    from GA

    It's looking good Carl, Can't wait to see you burning some rubber
    :D
     
  20. I'm not to fond of IFS on fenderless cars. That said , I don't think my Chevy came out too bad. My 1st build.
    Keep up the good work. I have subscribed. FYI I am now working on s***ching up my interior.
     

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  21. Kettleman
    Joined: Mar 28, 2006
    Posts: 149

    Kettleman
    Member

    Looks good, for the windshield and side gl*** rubber, you might try I&I Reproduction, they have a bunch of stuff for Chevy's from 29 to 54.

    They are in California, 562-531-8117
    www.iandireproduction.com

    Keep the pictures coming.
     
  22. Carl5Coupe
    Joined: Oct 31, 2010
    Posts: 601

    Carl5Coupe
    Member
    from Buford Ga

    Hey Bob
    I like the pictures, Your ride looks great. I was checking out the stearing column install. I have a full size tilt column I was thinking of installing but some one told me to use a front wheel drive column since it is shorter. :confused: not sure what to do.
     
  23. Carl5Coupe
    Joined: Oct 31, 2010
    Posts: 601

    Carl5Coupe
    Member
    from Buford Ga

    Thanks Kettleman, I will call them this week.

    Carl
     
  24. My column is out of a Buick. 70's vimtage. Can't get much fiuller size then that. All depends on the angle you want and clearences.I could have dropped mine another 1". I did use 2 knuckles in the linkage.
     

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    Last edited: Jan 30, 2011
  25. Carl, I have stacks of Chevy links to suppliers if u need some.
     
  26. chopper526
    Joined: Sep 12, 2010
    Posts: 252

    chopper526
    Member
    from Phila., PA

    Looking good Carl. Bob, I might be able to use some of those supplier links if you don't mind.
     
  27. chopper526
    Joined: Sep 12, 2010
    Posts: 252

    chopper526
    Member
    from Phila., PA

    Thanks, Bob! that was quick. Jim
     
  28. scoop
    Joined: Jul 4, 2001
    Posts: 1,531

    scoop
    Member

    Looking good!It's got 1/8" metal for the floor? Thats got to weigh a ton!
     
  29. Carl5Coupe
    Joined: Oct 31, 2010
    Posts: 601

    Carl5Coupe
    Member
    from Buford Ga

    The body is heavy but it looks good. I don't think its going anywhere. Plenty to weld to.

    Carl
     

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