Projects My First Flathead... NOW WHAT?

Has anybody got a valve kit from 1935fordtn, Third Gen Automotive on the ePay? I've bought a bunch of smalls from them over the years and always been satisfied. Their kit looks pretty good, and I think I'm going to tear this engine down bare now and I'm thinking of just getting an all new set and putting what's in there on my shelf. Though if my valves look good and clean up nice, I'm not sure I wouldn't be better off just doing new guides if mine are 2-piece.

 

You have a late model flathead, right? Why would it have two-piece guides?

 

I've got an 8ba, not an EAB, I thought the guides were still 2 piece at that stage

I'm not going to go off and spend money before I get these things out regardless. I want to see what everything looks like and show it to the machinist to see what his experience offers up. I'm just eyeing that kit as the go-to if I don't drop these back in.

Also, while I'm posting, I've been reading on that Exhaust and power thread that's going on and it's got me thinking about it. I was planning to run a lakes megaphone style exhaust system and ditch the 36 style headers that I pulled off the engine. But I'm second guessing that idea now since everything south of the intake on this build is remaining fairly stock. Now I'm wondering if I'd be better off cleaning those headers up and running them into some sort of other configuration.

 

If your mill has two piece guides, then it was certainly rebuilt sometime it's life for 8BA's came with solid guides.
I would do some real good inventory of what you have for it seems like you may a shade tree mechanic special.

 

I'm pretty sure there was at least a shade-tree install, judging by the headers and the early generator that was installed upside down with the old bracket still on there & facing up. The stamping on the rods leads me to think the engine was at least rebuilt indoors though.

 

Update, I am hating the valves. An hour in and i haven't gotten a one out. I'm probably doing it rong.

 

Ok, got one!

 

if you want to clean the various p***ages in that block, a $20 rifle cleaning kit is just the ticket. and, if you're going to bore, a toilet brush works great to clean the cylinders!

 

No plans to bore, just gasket match.

What caliber range for the rifle kit?

 

Patmanta,
I had the same issue getting the valves out. I bought a cheap tool from Harbor Frieght. It was about 16" long and had a flat end on it. $5.00. I used it like one of the valve removing tools you can buy to lift the springs. It might take 3 hands to do it but it works. Pry up on the spring enough to release the valve keepers (2) . I used a magnet on a small handle to get them out. Then the valve will be free. Take it out. Pry the spring out. Careful here, if you want to reuse the springs. To get the valve guide out, I used a large socket that fit into the upper valve area and tapped the guide out the bottom. Careful not to damage the guide hole.
Also, my 8BA was in great shape like yours. Grimy black grease too. I sent the block out for cleaning and magnaflux. Just found out it has a crack between a valve and a cylinder.
So check yours carefully. Would hate to see you spend money and find a crack later

 

get one that does all calibers--it'll probably have everything from .177 to .45. that oughta do ya.

 

Do you have a flathead 'Valve Bar'? They are designed to push between the spring wires and grab the bottom of the valve guide to pull it down, then you remove the horseshoe clip and pull the whole valve, guide and spring ***embly out in one piece. The guides all have 'slots' cut in the bottom - specifically for the valve bar to grab onto.

Sometimes it is that easy, sometimes you have to resort to heinous brute force to get them out any way you can --> like you're currently doing, cutting the valve stems with bolt cutters, using wiz-wheels to cut springs and valves, etc..

Your engine has so much oil/sludge in it and you know it's been apart, so the standard valve bar technique might just work. Plus - you'll need a valve bar for re***embly anyway.

Here is a link to one at Speedway . . . not sure how good of quality it is, but you'll need one:

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Offenhauser-Valve-Guide-Removal-Tool,25044.html

 

Well I got them all out finally. It was a mixed bag for sure.

Casualty list includes 2 springs, 1 clip, and a valve that's probably not worth saving. It was stuck good but i managed to get some grip on it and work it out.

 

Excellent! Now you are truly a new junior member of the flathead club! Until you've taken a dirty one all apart, you just cannot qualify. You will achieve full membership upon building and starting your first flathead. You'll automatically sign up for a lifetime membership once you drive one down the road and see the enjoyment they bring!

 

Yeah I'm already thinking about the next two flathead builds I've got my eye on a couple cores. And we're getting a spot at Fitchburg this year too so I can sell some stuff (and buy even more).

I'm a gimp this evening. Both my palms are tender from working the torque bar.

 

My first AND last flathead! (It's in my coupe and it sure is purty!) I coulda' had 4 SBC motors for the same amount of money ( but they're BORING) ( and NOT purty). Keep cleaning; the fun part's coming! All those nice ,new ,shiney parts- just like Christmas!

 

I think I forgot to mention that I blew two holes in the ceiling of my shop with a couple valve guides. I have now learned not to tap them in so far that I can't get the spring off and have to pry them up and out from the bottom. I also learned that when I do, put a towel over the valve to at least slow that deer slug down a bit.

And welcome to the HAMB @1950 guy , I see that was your first post.

 

Nice! Usually these 'deer slugs' manage to aim for fluorescent lights or any 'helper' who is trying to supervise the work. My cat knows to stay out of the shop when it sees the bolt cutters and the flathead valve bar! When you cut the valve stems with a bolt cutter . . . the heads tend to fly really nice across the shop . . . I find them in all sorts of fun places later on . . .

 

LOL, yeah, I also learned PDQ to put the hood of my sweatshirt up for added protection after getting beaned with a ricochet. Fortunately it was the spring and not a guide! I haven't counted everything yet, but after finding the first guide that I lost track of on the other side of the shop, I THINK I have everything accounted for... I didn't even bother with the keepers, they're just on the floor or still stuck in the gunk in the valley.

The one valve that was stuck, I managed to work it out by using a large vice grip plier to grab the head which I rotated back and forth while pulling outward and applying liberal amounts of penetrating oil. I was dreading the idea of cutting it out so this is what I went for and was SUPER glad it worked.

 

My latest trick is to use a big-*** pair of bolt cutters - in the valley - to cut the stem. That way, I can get the spring and junk out, pull the head out the top (or if just flies out) and beat the guide into the valley. Is kind of brutal and a ***** to crank on the bolt cutters that hard, but it works! Beats the wiz-wheel approach.

 

What do you do, compress the spring or just work the jaws in between the coils?

 

Just work the jaws in between, not a problem - takes about all the strength you have and then you hear the 'snap' and watch the valve head fly!

 

I would imagine it is not advisable to stand in front of the valve when doing this

I actually caught myself torquing on a spring a couple times with my zipper lined up with the port... I moved.

 

Since the last update, I got the block torn down mostly except for the cam, lifters and oil pump. I had to switch gears to getting the mounts located in the frame and all that goes along with it. I'm getting toward having that sorted out finally so I'll be getting back into working on the engine sometime soonish hopefully.

BUT, LOOK WHAT CAME IN THE MAIL YESTERDAY. Now we've all got another Tardell Book to tell guys to go read!

 

Time to wake this tread back up because it's been on my mind.

Big Question of the Day, I do not really want to fool with adjustable lifters, but I'd like to run a HOT CAM; CAN I DO THIS WITH LONGER VALVES?

Are there any magic combinations of Cam/Stock Ford Lifters/Valves I can put together? Valves that wouldn't need grinding would be awesome if there is such a thing. I'm not averse to cutting new seats obviously.

I haven't found time to read that book yet either

 

No such thing. There is no magic combo of valves-cam-lifter-seat that will drop into your block without adjustment.

 

I didn't think so but it was a question I wasn't finding a definitive answer on either way. Thanks, @alchemy !

So, considering I'm not terribly interested in adjustable lifters and a Hot Cam is appealing, would Chevy valves ground to work with the setup be the ticket then?

Otherwise it would seem that an EAB or 1CM cam are the hottest I can do, yes?

 

Probably. If your cam is a new blank it should have a bigger base circle and make the lifters higher in their bores. Plenty of length for the longer Chevy valves to be ground to fit. If you are using old ground-on seats, it will be even better. If you have new seats it might still be OK. Just gotta test fit and see.

 

I don't think the seats have been touched on this block. There's evidence that it was rebuilt but I don't think anything was cut on.

I'm thinking something like a 400jr

 

By what I'm reading the ***le of this might be "My first and last Flathead" But keep it up it's fun reading....