As others have advised, careful cleaning and identification of what's there is the first step. Tread carefully. It may seem like the first step is the local car wash and pressure washing everything, but it will lose bad and good clues that way. Anything with fluids (coolant, brakes, engine, trans and diff, steering box) should be carefully revived. Take lots of pictures before taking things apart, document things that need repair, and they will serve as reminders of "before". If possible, get it running and stopping safely before blowing it apart, so you know how you fit and how it runs and handles before changes. It's a time capsule, and if you blow it apart and make big changes, it loses value. This does not apply to stuff that is dangerous, but research what needs to be swapped before just cutting things off and catalog bolt-ons are ordered. Try to get as much info as possible from the seller as you can. I got an old build and the guy told me the past owner had it for a long time, but didn't provide anything else.
Great car! What a find. Don't be so quick to give up on those "ugly" fenders. As noted earlier, they were made from an old spare tire ring. It was a popular hot-rod conversion in the day--the minimum needed to comply with fender laws. Here is a great Hamb thread on the subject. Go through it and you may find new appreciation for what you have. Just fyi, I'm south of you in Seattle, but also have a family place in Blaine. So I'm up and down the I-5 corridor a lot (although I prefer the side roads ).
It looks like a shortened phaeton body to me. The sides of the body do not curve inward behind the door as a ‘27 roadster or roadster pickup would.
since you're writing for opinions from the HAMB i should mention that there is a strong contingent of people here who believe in preserving the past as much as possible...this car is a complete "original" hot rod at this point...untouched since '68! that's something special to a lot of us ...I would make chopping the fenders off til the very end of the project hopefully they've grown on you by then... if you want to build your own version of a '27 roadster the front portion and doors usually sell for $200. to $500. easy to find plentiful even...those front fenders are made from '36 ford spare tire rims and lots of early hot rod lovers think theyre cool...if you cut it up change it it will be a run of the mill '27...in it's "original form" you have an opportunity to be the caretaker to a virtual time machine!
The brake/clutch master cylinder looks like Chevy pickup. Concur on the shortened touring body. Very common with the unavailability of actual roadster bodies. Looks like the back of the touring’s front seat is there. Shorten pickup bed, can’t tell if it’s a OE or a fabbed one. Looks like an Early Ford V8 sticker on the windshield The two piece stock windshield frame has been replaced with a custom one piece frame and glass, even though the posts look stock. The stock gas tank has probably been moved to the back, as the stock filler lid on the cowl has been removed and filled in. Looks like stock style steering wheel. Kicked up (“Z’d) front frame helps lower the front some more with the undropped front axle.
This is my 26 that started as a touring. That’s what you have for sure. I would like to see the back end of it.
It kind of looks like they took a rear body panel from it, or something else and just put it on the back. It is slightly rounded, and looks good. I think that is why the box is shortened. We wait and see. I have not even seen the whole car yet. You guys are so helpful and I appreciate it. You all have seen as much as I have. Stay tuned! Aug 11 is the pick up date. I'd like to have as much info as possible- because I plan to have brake parts and other things sitting here so I can dive right in. Are we all agreed it is looking like 47 on up brakes with a chevy trk master cyl??? I looked on Ebay- never found that master cyl.... yet Here is the rear tire and box. You can sort of see the rear body panel. Note those dual Red lined 'meats Also note those tires were new when he got it. I doubt they have 5000 miles on 'em...
If your master cyl. has “ Brake” and “Clutch” cast on it it is for a Chevy truck, International used a master like that but theirs has a four bolt mounting pattern. There is a residual pressure valve in the brake side and you will want to disassemble the new master and switch the internal parts. I don’t know what the reason was but GM used a crossover pedal****embly so unless your car has the GM pedals be sure to switch the RPV. The International internals are already correct.
More questions: That is a cut down box? Any clue from the lug nuts if that is a 47 hub? Notice at the very top of the picture. That is a shelf in the storage place. This thing is crammed in there. I have yet to see the 'whole " car. I'm just dying to see the tailgate and rear end, tailights. etc!
It does say, " Brake and Clutch" . Thank you! Do you think this was used for a split front/ rear brake set up, or does this thing have a hydraulic clutch?
Best I can tell, that master cylinder would be from 60-62 Chevy C10? Looks just like the one on my 61 GMC and is a fairly common one that was used on hot rods.
We need a clearer pic to be sure of the front brake year. Could be 40, could be 48. The cylinders are the same but the shoes are not. A nice close shot of the backing plate would show us. No use buying the wrong parts.
Plastic front license plat holder? Looks like someone was trying to get it on the road somewhat recently.
The rear end is probably from the same as the front end.As you can see, the axle stub sticking out through the rim.And that would say it's a banjo rearend. I can also see a lever shock mounted to the frame.
I’d say you have 1940 front axle, wishbones, spindles and brakes. Not 1948. I don’t see any of the telltale shoe pad notches around the outer edge of the backing plate that the 42-48 brakes have.
That thing is rad! Clean it up and get it running. Only change safety items like brake hoses and stuff like that if you can help it. I also have a blue survivor hot rod that was built in ‘58 so we should start a club?
Post a picture of the 6 o'clock position of the backing plates, that will nail down the year. Charlie Stephens
Fair lads and ladies, the OP has not seen the car in person, does not have it in his possession and has no other pictures to share YET. EDIT: He quick drew me!
I've seen the car in person I took all the wrong pics. The car is literally a few units over from where I rent and work. Knowing it's just right there, but I can't go see it again until the 11th is really hard. The wait is killing me !
Well, if you do happen to enter the space before the pickup date without authorization, try not to document it and post evidence online!
He offered me the keys and the code before he went on vacation. Like an idiot- I told him I could wait, since I wanted to research it a bit before I did an impulse buy. Keep in mind I have a 32 Studebaker Commander 8 I went and got, but progress on that one is so slow due to lack of parts.... Slowly learning is better than not learning?
I was not very specific about what bugs me on those those fenders. The crude angle iron/round stock brackets and how they were welded look bad in my eye. The fronts I knew came from something else, now verified. The rears look like a utility trailer fender from NAPA.... I do respect all of your thoughts about things like this. I'm just picky- I have 20 + years doing auto body and restoring cars along the way.... Its the way the fenders were mounted is what gets to me.. I'll admit, I did some 'quick' fixes on some my own over the years. Nobody is perfect- and sometimes a budget limits us to go the full 9 yards
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