Gotta remember. Back in the day the average rodder didn't build for show. So while they would typically put a lot of effort into parts they cared about they rush stuff they didn't like fenders they were required to have in order to get their go job on the road. Honestly changing the fenders or how they're mounted would go against resto standard procedure. I've done restos on multiple cars including a fuelie 58 Corvette that went through Mecum auctions. On a car like that you make a point to even get the over spray to match what was on the****embly line. That said if the welds are gobbledygook chicken scratch I could see getting some proper welds on them
Good movie to watch to get an idea of what we're talking about is "hot rods to hell" believe it was released in 1967. The amount of hot rods in that movie is astounding. And a good reference for rods of the period
Please just remember. DO NOT JUMP on an impulse to improve. That is the way the car was originally done by the builder. Removing or "improving it" would destroy the originality. If it turns out to be "bubble gum welding" that could be improved using original parts. It will be your car to do with as you see fit. So, that is just my opinion.
Canada baby...there's almost always one or two on Craigslips or Marketface up here...Phaeton cut offs probably from farms in the eastern provinces...cheap like borscht
Apologies for not reading all the previous posts but if it hasnt been mentioned previously, if you dont have the****le for it sort that out as your 1st spend.
Hi everyone. After an agonizing long wait, it's here! I still need to ID a few things The front Brakes and water outlet looks like it does come from the lower front corner of the block- not the water pumps. ? I now see the 'theme of the Red Orange paint choice. It has a Hurst cradle with hydraulic clutch under there. Is that last pic a 'kill switch'? As I look it over, I can see some amazing thought and craftsmanship went into this thing. Thanks for any help.
I agree that the rear fenders look a little off. You could get another 35-36 spare tire cover and replace them with it, color match painted of course. That would keep the character but make you happier.
That's a great idea. You could even cut them down the center and add a strip of metal to widen them a bit.
@(S) sorry you haven't got all the answers yet, here's a bump. I think that front axle with the spring ahead is late 40s ford, but I'm no expert. The front shock mounts are typical F1 or F100 shock mounts. The removable electrical part with terminals does look like a kill switch of some sort. The in bed area is very nicely done to a high standard.
Thanks for the replies. The engine turns, but I'm going to give it a good soak of ATF anyway... Give it a compression check to look for stuck valves.... I'm ordering brake parts and going ahead on getting it driving. Thanks a ton for helping. You guys rock
It has a Hobbs meter showing 389 hours It has a trickle chager to keep the battery up, but I have no charger cord......
Even though most of us tell you to keep it the way it is, I suggest that you don't use that 3 wire connector plug that is on the firewall. Nothing there to keep it from loosening when you hit a bump in the road. I learned that one years ago the hard way.
The information you get from this test, on an engine that hasn't run in a*****'s age, will typically give some poor numbers. Get the engine running even for 30 seconds and test it again, and compare these new numbers. Piston rings will have loosened up, carbon and light rust on the intake valve faces will be blown out, etc. So the new numbers most probably will be much better, and more accurate of the engine's condition.
The main reason for the compression test is to try and figure out if it has High compression pistons, cam etc. We;ll do multiple tests for sure to check it to eliminate a stuck valve etc. It does turn over, just gotta take it slow. I am totally new to Fords, but have experience on other vintage engines. Thank you. I have to post pics of the front of the engine. It was suggested, the engine may be a sprint car block. Where do I look, besides the water outlets? Are they special blocks with a stamped, or cast number? I want new water pumps, and with a little more work- this thing is ready to run!
You won’t find “new” water pumps, but you could have yours rebuilt. Take a closeup pic of the lower side of the block, between the exhaust and the pan. Looking to see how the lower water outlet is attached. I’ve never done it, but I’ve read that removing the pumps is horribly difficult because they thread into the front cover. As you can imagine, cast iron threads that have been soaking in a moist environment for decades sound like a problem. I doubt you will find a compression level that looks anything like high performance. Just be glad you find consistent compression.
Very cool time capsule. Thanks for posting. Sometimes the "goofy" stuff on the older builds are what adds to the charm. Not everything was built like the cookie cutter California magazines back in the day.
I would suggest rotating by hand and checking each cylinder, using a leakdown tester rather than a static compression test. It'll be safer than cranking an old engine you know nothing about...
My early Ford parts guy who has been in the game for many years tells me that the early ('39-41-ish) Ford hydraulic brake shoes that are currently available are a bit...problematic in their fit and function so be mindful when installing them. New shoes will have to be "arc'ed" to match the individual drums. Good luck finding somebody who does that! You can do it yourself with a bench mounted belt sander carefully. Ask me how I know. Do not use air pressure to clean off the brake dust when disassembly. Those old shoes are probably asbestos based. Very cool find and like others have said, I agree with keeping it as found, even the wonky rear fenders (which are growing on me). Make it driveable and as safe as it can be and you will be the envy of any show you bring it to. Looks to be a very well thought out and executed build for back in the day. Good luck with it. Andy
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