Nice job..... Can't tell from your photos if your are completely welding the entire seams or leaving some of the areas without weld. The photos shown looks like there is a fair amount of places without weld prior to grinding. I normally spot weld the entire seam so that the weld is contiguous, otherwise you will end up with some issues down the road.
I was wondering the samething. I'm working on my first patch panels as well. Not nearly as nice. I seem to always leave pin holes.
looks great , i use the galvanize spray coating for those areas behind my metal repairs, it works really well and you can actually weld on it if you had to.
If you are referring to the filler hole patch, the pic with neck cut out and the patch partially welded, that was just to show what was cut out and the patch tacked in. I completely welded the patch, ground it down, then took a small flash-lite from the back to find any pin holes or or gaps between welds. This is the proceedure I use, all the pics with partially welded patches are just progress pics to show the process. Again thanks to everyone for the kind words and encouragement.
Looks like a professional job to these tired San Antonio eyes, bjinx. You will have no trouble completing the A. See you at the LSRU in April. Well, next year, for sure. Good luck.
Been a while since I posted any progress. Fixed the doors last year with some bottom outer skin patches and bottom inside frame pieces from Brattons. Cut 4 1/2" of the skin off sand blasted the lower area and primered the inside while it was accessible, also primered the back of the patch panels and the lower frame pieces. I put Gem Rust Metal Prep on the outside of the pieces. Tunnel vision pretty much took over while I was going through the process and I didn't take any pic till they were done. These were the first door skin repairs I had ever done. The drivers door was the first one I did. Was able to make a piece to repair the lower frame. On the skin piece I had to cut the weld and redo a couple of time before I got the peak out. On the p***enger door I cut off the top part of the frame patch that attaches to the center brace and used the rest of it. That way I could keep the sides of the door attached to each other. Spent more time on getting the patch trimmed and fitted on the p***enger door and it went a lot better. All in all I am happy with the results on both doors. They will need skim coats to make them right. The only thing about the skin patches I didn't like is that they where a 1/8" to wide. I flushed them to the front because of the door gap and hammered it in on the rear side. They have a little dip in the transition from original skin to patch but not bad. Drivers door P***enger Door
Life gets in the way sometimes. The project slowed down for a few years, but I am back into it. Have some more areas I fixed to post and a mock-up pic after fitting the fenders and running boards.
Trust me I know about that. Glad to see it circle back around- I remembered it from before and was happy to see you're back at it. Have fun
Thanks Fourspeedwagon, This year, again, my goal is to have it together and running by Oct. for The Day of The Drags. Doubt I will, but one has to have goals.
Thanks guys, should be able to put some time in on the car this week. Have one more area to fix on the p*** front fender and that should take care of the repair metal work on the car. Picked up a 1987 S-10 T-5 and mid 60's aluminum bell housing last month at a swap meet so I can check those off the list. Will post picks of the repair work to the fender when I finish which hopefully will be this month.
Well I have some more progress to post on the car. The p***enger side front fender had earlier damage repairs in two places, you know the kind, beat it up, weld it, fill it full of lead, and another place, the inner part of the fender that sits on the frame, that was rusted up bad. I had another donor fender that I could get pieces to fix the upper damaged area and the rusted area. I purchased the lower 14" off of a fender on the HAMB to get the patch to fix the lower damaged area. Here is how it went. The first one Relief cut and braced Patch piece area from donor fender Tacked in Done and treated with Gem Rust Metal Prep The next one. Relief cut and ready to cut to cut out Patch area I cut from the purchased fender piece which I sand blasted before I welded it in. 1/8" aluminum pieces I used to line-up and hold patch through initial welding. I did the same with the first patch also. Tacked in Done and treated with Metal Prep The last one Area which I used out of the donor fender Done and treated with Metal Prep All in all I am happy with the way they all turned out. The patches follow the contours of the areas of the fender that they are in which was my greatest concern and challenge. All will need some bondo work but not much. The next faze is going to be getting the gauge panel done and its mounting to the tank done while I can still take the tank out. Then get all the old wood out prep those areas and put all the new wood in. Thanks for looking in on my build.
I got the pedal ***embly built, using two '40 Ford brake pedals. Had a friend of mine shear and bend up some 3/16" metal for the main body and shear and bend two other pieces for the gusset and shaft brace that I could cut and fit. Made the tab for the clutch pedal out of 3/8" metal and the tab for the brake pedal return spring, which is for a '40 ford(which I have on backwards, the long end attaches to the pedal). The bracket to secure the cable end is also 3/16" plate and 3/16"angle. The M/C is a '67thru '72 Mustang. I have a TCI frame that was set up for an automatic trans and a single brake pedal. What I built bolts to the pad their single pedal setup bolted to. The bracket for the clutch cable at the trans is made of 1/4" metal as is the tab on he clutch fork the heim joint attaches to. The tab that holds the cable came with the cable from Brizos in CA. The return spring tab bolted to the bell housing is also made out of 3/16" metal. I tacked all the parts for everything together and took them to another friend and he welded everything up. The trans is a S-10 T-5 and the adapter plate I bought from a member on here,named INLINE,who makes adapters for all kinds of applications. With limited room for the pedals, steering column, and exhaust I felt that a cable clutch was the way to go. I got the idea from a thread that DRuss had about doing it to his '31 Vicky. I can push the clutch pedal with my hand and brake over the pressure plate so I am liking that. Now it is on to mounting the fire wall and fabbing the toe and floor boards. Thanks for looking
Have made some progress. Built a 4ft wooden Citric Acid Tank and cleaned the rust off of these parts Also bought a repop under the rear seat panel and modified it for access to to the upper shock bolts. This pic is before I fabbed and welded the tops on the removable boxes. Still moving forward, but life has gotten in the way and slowed down progress some. Here are some other things I have done. Worked out the door handles, inside and outside, installed the top wood, made a floor trans cover. Will try and post these and other pics of progress. Thanks for the interest in my project.
The Jalopy Journal
