Projects My GN Cycle Car tribute build

Thanks for asking. I wish I could say yes. Been laid up with some minor health issues for the last two months. Was planning to media blast the pulley, but then my gloves for my cabinet ripped apart while cleaning up calipers for my daily driver. New gloves finally arrived yesterday, so will get pulley blasted, painted, and mounted hopefully this weekend.

 

Picked this up a few weeks back. The metal fabricator in Montreal that made panels for my IH Traveler even had a couple of them lying around. Lol!
I posted pics of their shop in another thread. They made these exact replicas of the floor pans for me, one while I waited!

 

Wish you all the best for the new year.
I hope you will find some more time to work on your project.
looking forward to hear about the progress.

 

Thanks @Rolfzoller! Merry Christmas and Happy New Years to you and your family!
I’ve been busy with an engine swap for the Traveler the last couple of months. Just finished fabbing up a cross member for the trans. I’ll get back to the flathead after Christmas.

 

Been back at working on the flathead the last couple weeks. Taking inventory of what I had purchased, stuff removed from the engine, etc. Decided to tackle wiring for testing using the gauges I purchased a few years ago at Hershey, and now onto the oil sump pump “rebuild”. Been doing a lot of reading on the wiring for a 6V positive ground system, getting wire, terminals, etc., and oil pumps. Lol! Clearance on the oil sump pump gears is marginal, so not sure what to do. One supplier I’ve used in the past had no new Melling pumps available, and I’m not sure if I trust the quality of off-shore stuff. Also have to repair the crack in my oil pan, and mod a engine stand do it can support the flathead along with all the gauges etc. Still a lot of niggly little things to do, but I want it fired up by August. Will mount the flywheel, distributor cover, distributor this afternoon, and make the plug wires. Will upload some pics then.

 

Engine as how I left it last Feb. Damn time flies...


Helmet timing gear cover installed.


Timing cover for helmet distributor installed (no gasket yet), and helmet distributor (again no gasket) as I still have to remove everything to paint the block. PS spark plug wires installed. Now just have to cut to length and figure out how to solder these terminals on.

Used CAT hardware to install timing cover and helmet distributor. Anyone need factory correct Flathead bolts from 3rd Gen Automotive? Lol!



Brillman solder style plug wire terminals for dist cap.

 

Finished up the plug wires on the DS. Getting all four wires through the rubber boot, dust cap, gasket and then connecting them to the dist cap was a bit of a battle, but it turned out ok. Initially forgot to p*** them through the dust cap, and then forgot about the gasket. D’oh! Read somewhere that the solder terminals were only meant for solid copper core plug wires whereas mine are stranded copper. Left the copper core tip protruding a bit as there is enough room in the dist cap. Those little tangs really dig into the outer coating of the plug wires. Very difficult to actually get them off. I think the other non-solder type terminals would have been fine.

 

Re: the plug wires.
Rajo clips are also available for the spark plug end. 90 degrees or straight

 

Yes, I thought about Rajah terminals when I was researching all this last year, and just came across them again last night on the Brillman sight. There are the coolest that I’ve seen. Maybe down the road J might switch. That piece is a work of art!

 

Didn’t get to the PS plugs yesterday. Started cleaning up the single groove crank pulley I purchased last year. Seems to be a bit loose, but I don’t want to push it on all the way with oil pan and seal there. Will pull the oil pan today, and will attempt to fix the crack. Will also add the new oil dipstick boss I purchased. As mentioned earlier, I’ve been also “rebuilding” the oil pump. Lots of talk about poor quality from Melling, so I would really prefer to use the original. Now waiting on a gasket for the end cover. Purchased a Federal Mogul gasket “kit” a while ago which includes the gasket for oil pickup ***embly, but not for the pump end cover. Go figure.
I also had to reorder the cam extension “ ****on” which is needed when swapping a helmet dist to the 59A era block. Can’t find it anywhere. Damn these projects which take years, and me wanting to find a “safe” place to keep stuff. Lol!

Here is the link to the oil pump “rebuild” on the Ford Barn.

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=314608

 

Finished up the PS plug wires. Snugged up the lower bell hsg/inspection cover and some of filler J had used on the oil pan had popped off. Not sure how well the hogs head adapter will fit up to the stamped oil pan & inspection cover pieces as the surfaces don’t seem all that parallel near the stater pocket. Will clean up the flywheel. It still developed a light film of rust even after coating it with WD40 initially and then some rust inhibitor that I applied after the WD40 had evaporated.

Lower bell hsg/insp cover. Still needs a top coat. This was the original that came with the motor and being a newb at the time I purchased another not knowing what the original was for. Of course, I then blasted it and primed forgetting I had purchased a second one which was in much better shake. D’oh!

PS plug wires installed.


Section on oil pan with broken off filler.

 

Original Ford truck hogs head adapter I purchased off of eBay. Seller did a great job of refurbishing it. Attached is the “second” insp cover. Lol! Seller did a great job of refurbishing it. I’ll likely leave the grey/silver top coat as is.


Original resurfaced flywheel. It is machined for the original Ford 11” long throw 3-finger pressure plate. I’ll either use the existing one if the surface/function is still good, and if not, get an aftermarket 11” unit that will match the existing mounting holes.

 

Original Ford pressure plate and clutch disc. The 4sp truck trans that came with engine has a 1.375” input shaft dia. The Ford T5 had a 1.1875” dia input diameter. I have another thread going about mating you the T5. Kinda of frustrating looking for info. I think the Ford T5 input shaft from 93 and earlier will work as far as length goes, but now trying to find a throw out bearing that will work with the Ford 11” pressure plate and clutch fork that will fit the 1.440” dia of the Ford T5 clutch bearing sleeve.

Original Ford truck 11” long throw 3-finger pressure plate.



Original 11” clutch disc.

 

Ford hogs head adapter snugged your nicely despite the slight misalignment in the area where the insp cover and oil pan flanges overlap.



Flywheel cleaned up a bit with a sponge style scuff pad. Was thinking of using my new 6” orbital sander, but I think common sense kicked in before I probably would ****** it. Lol!



Was going to install the flywheel, but looking at the wooden floor boards, I think I better slide another sheet of plywood underneath the motor support as the boards are sagging a bit, and that flywheel is a heavy ******. I don’t need the engine crashing through the floor.

 

Fabbed up this lifting fixture this morning that mounts to the intake manifold threaded holes in the block. I also started the mods to the Princess Auto engine stand this afternoon to make it my engine “test” stand, but it’s just too damn hot and humid at 30C. Will finish the stand tomorrow and get the engine installed on it.

 

Got started modding the Princess Auto engine stand. I don’t think there is one square or straight welded piece on this thing. Why can’t the Chinese just do stuff the correct way? Is it really that difficult? I would have been better off just building one from scratch but it is what it is. It’s about 3” too short to reach the end of the bell hsg, so I’m trying to figure out the best way to make up that 3” deficit. Was super hot & humid yesterday as well, plus it was my eldest daughter’s birthday, so the day was cut short. Hoping to wrap it up today, but the pressure switch on my compressor has also ****ped out.

 

Almost done. Did I mention that there wasn’t one straight section or perpendicular joint? So frustrating as things are crooked. Forgot that U had to clear the pocket in the oil pan for the starter. D’oh! Had to bolt it up to the engine to make sure it would actually fit. Will finish some welding, and clean it up best I can. I really need to learn how to weld. Lol!

 

I am sure that weld would Not p*** Xray

 

Haha! Probably not. If you’re talking about the weld joining the two rear plates, at least I beveled both edges and had the welder on number 3 out of 4 setting for 3/16” plate.

 

Decided to swap out the casters for some larger ones U had lying around. The ones at the ring then interfered with the small thru bolts holding the front supports to the frame. They were super small and cheap, so I decided to weld the front supports with the frame. Line up the thru bolt holes, but when I went to mount it to the engine the plate no longer fit parallel to the block. D’oh. I knew the frame was crooked as hell, but I really didn’t care too much as long as it fit the block. Looks like now, I’ll be cutting that rear left post to move it forward by about 1/4”. It would have been easier and faster if au just fabled up the support from scratch.

Tiny almost useless screws to secure front supports to frame.
Washers are already deformed.


The stand is supposed to be rated for 1,000 lbs. Lol!


Welded on front support with bigger casters.



Rear plate misalignment.


I pulled a gas tank I kept from an old Lawnboy mower that I want to mount as well as my 6V battery from my Allen synchrograph. So, I might add a plate to the bottom to locate the tank and the battery, as well as adding a plate somewhere to mount the tach, coolant gauge, solenoid, ign/light switch, and starter switch.

 

...Acme Weld Inspection at your service...and here I thought they were just for looking through the ladies dresses...

@Ziggster I wish I was closer to you, I'd take a night school cl*** with you to get better at welding...I did get an award in High School for it...1978 it was......man I'm old......I have a mig and gas torches...gas I'm not to bad with but mig I could use some instaruction...I'd like to take a cl***...

Glad you're making some progress on the Beast...can that flywheel be skimmed on a lathe to take that I've been stuck together for 40 years look or are those hotspots?

Upgrading the PAuto stuff makes it more functional...I have those 4 wheel dollies and the cast wheels on them **** bigtime...I also had an engine stand that had similar wheels and they weren't sintered I think it's referred to as and it rolled terribly...
​

 

I think I could be a lot better at welding if I would just actually learn and take the time to correctly set the power and feed levels. I just set it at what I think which is usually not correct. The other issue is actually seeing what I’m welding. If I’m inside the garage or my workshop in the ba*****t, it is almost pointless unless I have a light shining on the area to be welded. I’m sure a high quality helmet would help. Lastly, is a steady hand and technique which I have yet to develop. I looked at courses as well and even some 1 day affairs offered on kijiji. I bet if I just spent a few hours with a skilled welder, I would improve by my booger welds immensely.
Cut the post, cut a good 3/8” section of the gusset away, jammed the post back in, welder up. Lol!
Added a rear plate for the battery and fuel tank. Probably not a good idea to have the battery next to the fuel tank. Better get a battery box of some type and and an extinguisher. Lol! Decided to paint it with a can of Rustoleum hammer paint finish paint I had lying around. Might just look not too shabby with a nice coat of paint. Next, I want to finish the exhaust “collectors”.

 

If You are old enough to have Cataracts you will have trouble seeing you're weld. When I had mine done it made all the difference, Afterwards I was stacking dimes again no more blobing looking welds. I also switched to a
clear cup, My MIG welds looked a lot better. Most MIG welders have a chart on settings, if you can't find one Google it then use those settings as a starting point and practice on some s****s till you get it dialed in. Hope this help's. Frank

 

Thankfully, no cataracts or vision issues except being near sighted. I want to get a TIG machine, but the cost and real need is holding me back. I have a decent torch, and really want to learn how to gas weld and braze as I want to avoid MIG welding the steel frame for my speedster when the time comes. My little Hobart 175 Handler has a chart on the inside cover, but I’ve only looked at it when I first purchased it over 10 years ago. Lol! It’s all on me. I just need to unlearn my bad habits when it comes to welding.
Picked up some hardware for the stand yesterday night while in town. Noticed, I had no sheet metal large enough to mount the gauges, and started poking around in my garage, and found an old cooking sheet that I use to collect metal drill shavings. Fitted it up, but it too was a bit short, but I might have some in the kitchen cupboards that might work. We’ll see. Lol!
Started looking for the exhaust parts last night after I got home. Parts are all over the place, and can’t yet find the box of flexible exhaust tubing for the other side. Damn frustrating. I’ll need to add/fab up some kind of support system to the test stand to mount those huge collectors. This stand has become yet another project within a project.

 

What size wire are you running in your machine, on mine I usually run 0.23 ER70-S6 and it works good for me. I use it for all my body work and small fabrication. When you learn oxygen/acetylene welding you will also learn the basics for tig welding adding filler and torch control. It's takes practice stacking beads to learn. I also use nozzle jell to keep the cup and tip clean on my MIG. I really like your build especially the Flatmotor.

 

Thanks. I’m using 0.35” Lincoln wire.
Found the correct backing sheet for the gauges. Had just the right patina. Lol! Just noticed three of the gauges have no C-clamp to secure them, and the one for the tach is too short. Guess I’ll be fabbing up some C-clamps.

 

Looks like you are ready to shake and bake. I used a large Aluminum cookie sheet to build my fan shroud. Buy a small tool of 0.23 and try it. Works on thin sheet metal and up to 3/16 plate

 

I have some 0.23”. Will swap out and give it a try.
Got this far before the rain came. Still have to make the C-clamp for the coolant temp gauge. Made it the same width as the others, but there is a huge nut on it, so I need to widen the C-clamp.

 

They had a notch in them to clear the Capillary Tube like this

 

Thanks! I wouldn’t have thought of that. Lol!