Projects My GN Cycle Car tribute build

Intake installed as well as distributor and plug wires. Will repaint the generator as well as install a new pulley as the orig is missing a few cooling fins. Almost forgot there was a shroud that goes around the fuel pushrod until I watched this YT vid. Hoping I have the correct (shorter) pushrod for the Ford factory aluminum intake.

 

Forgot to mention I installed the oil deflector pcs in the oil gallery as well as the oil pressure relief spring. Also didn’t use any gasket sealant on the intake gasket but did use a bit around the distributor gasket.



More detail of the questions I had about the oil pressure relief valve can be found in this thread on the Barn.

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=325508

 

Checked out the fuel pushrods and a few other things. Summary below:

Orig pushrod length: 227 mm
Speedway short pushrod length: 200 mm
Delta: 27 mm

Orig cast iron fuel boss height: 58 mm
Orig Ford aluminum intake boss height: 34 mm
Delta 24 mm

So, as you can see the differences in heights are not the same as the differences in fuel pump pushrod lengths. The Speedway pushrod length is too short by about 3 mm or 1/8”.

Also checked the amount the shorter Speedway pushrod sits above the fuel pump boss intake manifold at lowest and the stroke. Distance above fuel pump intake boss with gasket installed at lowest stroke position was 27.5 mm. Stroke was about 0.170 thou (more as I measured it on an angle with my dial indicator). So at max stroke the pushrod would sit at least 27.5 mm + 0.170” (4.32 mm) above the intake boss gasket for the fuel pump = 32 mm.

I measured the distance the fuel pump cam arm sits inside from the fuel pump base at lowest stroke and highest stroke.

Lowest stroke: 20 mm
Highest stroke: 33 mm

So, it seems at the highest pushrod length height (maximum stroke on the cam), there is about a 1 mm clearance. There are errors in these measurements, but I just wanted to make sure that the pushrod would actually contact the cam arm at lowest stroke and not push it beyond the cam arm at greatest stroke. Seems all is good, and pump assy is installed on the intake manifold. I had to add some sealant to the base of the fuel pump
assy as it was not flat. It was actually concave.
More disturbing was while looking into the tube for the breather I noticed some debris. I pulled out some fine metal threads and wondered WTH. Where did they come from? Look at the inside of the breather, and see this. WTF!? If you zoom in on the first pic you’ll see the wire. More Chineseium garbage. That will not be going back on my engine!

 

4 exhaust pipe from a flathead unique…. Guess going for the look. ( smile ing )

 

It’s all about the look. Couldn’t have people thinking it was a V6. Hoping the split exh doesn’t change the iconic sound. It if does, one pipe will be blocked off.

 

Six of the eight bearings/races for the T5 already arrived from RockAuto. All we’re supposed to be Timken except one was supposed SFK (race for front of countershaft) instead the buggers shipped some Chinese “equivalent” for my Timken LM48510. WTF!? Will need to contact them. Still need to source the seals and needle bearings for the input shaft.

 

Tried to apply tension to the v-belt last night using a pry bar and blocks of wood between the bottom of the generator casing and top of the intake manifold. Would not budge. Then thought I would be clever and just pull the generator upwards with my hoist. Nope. The whole engine started lifting! Gave up as it was getting close to midnight. Not sure what to do. Lol!

 

Decided to get back working on finishing off the DS collector. Welded on the last pipe, and will now finish grinding/sanding the welds smooth. Then will weld on a flat cap. Was going to use some of a funnel I purchased because I want a cone shape, but the metal is too thin. Still want a cone on the end, but need to figure something else out.

 

Got the end cap cut and welded onto the DS collector. Still a lot welding & grinding to smooth out the welds around the pipes for the flex exh pipe. I wish I could weld. Also, welded the two transition pieces to the PS collector. A crazy amount of time has gone into these collectors and still have a long way to go for the PS.

 

Where were the Timken bearings made?
I notice that on the Rockauto parts sheet the country of origin commonly does not match what's on the part.

Coincidentally just yesterday a fellow who works at a Timken plant here in Canada that makes larger bearings and housings, said the castings at his facility come from China and are machined here. So far as I know, they are reliable in the big equipment they go into.

But I too would be wary of small, off brand bearings from China, especially in a transmission.
In something like a generator I would use them because it's not a big deal to replace if they failed (and they wouldn't take a bunch of other stuff with 'em when they did).

 

Last two bearings/races arrived this morning for the T5. Thought I was being clever by ordering Timken/SKF bearings only to see on the packing slips none were made in NA. Most made in China.
The internals for the T5 from Hanlon Motorsports arrived in Ogdensburg, NY last week. Had to replace the exh on my daughter’s Tundra. She wanted it loud, so we ordered the Flowmaster 10 series “muffler”. Sounds awesome. Lol!

 

SKF has always been a quality product, from my experience.

 

Agree. I spec’d SKF bearings for a medium size rotary vane AC compressor we used to build at my previous job. Found them slightly superior to Timken.

 

So how's the Albanian bearings?

 

Oil arrived.

 

Added about 4 quarts of oil through the breather opening. Will install dipstick later to see what it shows. In one of the Nick’s Garage vids I watched recently he mentioned that he usually leaves the oil a little low when breaking in an engine to avoid too much splashing of oil from the crank. Don’t think I’ll add more than the 4 quarts for now. Also hit the Speedway breather against my bench top, and more crap came out. This stuff is total garbage and could easily ruin my engine. You have to zoom in on the pics below. I’m going to call them tomorrow. Going to see if I can source an orig breather.

 

The “new” generator pulley was a lot more rusty than I had thought it might be. No matter, going to bead blasted tonight and paint it.

 

Got the orig pulley off. Wasn’t sure how to do it as I didn’t find much on the interweebs. Just pulled the thru bolts out, removed the casing, and removed the armature assembly with the pulley and mounting bracket. Held the pulley in the vise and just unscrewed the armature by hand. I guess mine was easy as it had been rebuilt a few years ago. Doesn’t look like they did very much to it when they rebuilt it.

 

Pulley came out great. Rust was not as bad as it appeared. Got first coat of self-etching primer on.



Three of the eight cooling blades on the orig were chipped off.



Also added a touch-up coat to the dipstick and tube. Found a rubber grommet/washer that was a perfect match for just under the handle.

 

Dipstick installed. Just above halfway in “Safe Driving Range”. Lol!




Will see if I can glue the rubber washer to the underside of the flange.

 

This picture has everything right - Made in Canada and CAT high head bolts!

Could you give the part numbers for those bolts? I seem to recall seeing that LE mark on other bolts, any idea of what it signifies?

 

I was actually going to look to see what bolts I ordered as I need some more CAT hardware. I'm surprised I didn't list it in this thread or in my head bolt question thread. I have the invoice from the CAT dealer (Battlefield Equipment), but they just list the part numbers with no description. Here's a link to the catalogue and a PDF copy. It's old (2007), but hopefully, the part numbers are still valid. The "LE " mark likely refers to Lake Erie Products.

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=39688&d=1303020536

https://www.fastener-world.com/en/article/935.html

 

Thanks for the links and info. Caterpillar has a less than completely rational numbering system!
The listings of springs in the PDF is pretty comprehensive, might come in very handy at times.

 

Tried quickly to thread the new pulley onto the armature shaft. Wouldn’t engage the threads for some reason. Too busy with repairs to my daughter’s car to look further into it. Hopefully, if all goes well today on her car, I’ll be done and then will have a chance to see what the issue is.

 

Looked quickly again at the generator pulley. Got it started after tapping on the pull with a dead blow hammer with the armature shaft end resting on my vise. Could only get it threaded only a few threads before it becomes too difficult to continue. Seems the threads are not cut deep enough on the pulley as I can’t get the pulley to engage the threads on the armature even when I flip the pulley 180 degrees. Ordered this from Amazon. Hope I got the dia and pitch correct.

 

Tap and die set arrived a few days ago.



Picked up my T5 parts in Ogdensburg, NY yesterday.



Also got my Shell stickers that were sitting in their warehouse for the last year or two.

 

Turns out the armature thread is NOT 5/8” x 18. The tap was really loose going through the pulley and the threads did not match up. So, I just had to use a huge pair of channel lock pliers on the pulley to thread it on. Wonder if the pulley is designed like that so it doesn’t spin off as there is no key even though there is a key slot cut into the armature shaft. Pulley is a bit marred up from the pliers, but it is what it is. Just glad to get this behind me. Touched it up with some more paint. Will install it tomorrow.

 

Got the generator installed and belt tensioned. Was a bugger. Used my hoist and a strap, but while putting the hoist trolley back into position, a halogen light I had clamped to the cross beam fell off and into the glass window of the blast cabinet. Had a couple of jobs to do with it this weekend for our daily drivers. D’oh!

 

I can't "like" that last post. Bummer! I've really been enjoying following your progress on this project. Thanks for sharing it with us!

 

Thanks. Much appreciated. It gets better. Went to grab an extra V-belt I had placed on top of the engine, and couldn’t get it off. It was now trapped between the generator and carb. Sometimes, I feel this kind of stuff only happens to me. Lol!