Projects My GN Cycle Car tribute build

Hmmm…
What is this?

 

Noticed this.



Then this…

 

Gotta drain it and remove the elbows in the pump outlets so I can tighten the bolts inside the pumps. The other mounting bolts were tight, and I’m sure they were all torqued. I applied gasket maker onto of the gasket IIRC. Will need to check. That one clamp on the PS pump elbow is cocked to the end of the hose, so that’s why it’s leaking a bit there.

 

…and to top it all off, seems the oil leak at the pan has gotten worse. Not sure why. Seems there is a leak at the solder joint which I re-soldered when fixing the pan. Not sure where the reddish drip at the inspection cover is coming from. That is new. I’m guessing it’s oil mixed with the assy lube.

 

Drained the coolant last night. Good thing I added the drain petcocks. Haha! At least it seems all 40 plus solder joints are leak free. That’s some good news. Will install the bleeder valves, and the coolant gauge sensor probe. Going to tighten both bolts inside the pumps, but will leave as is afterwards and call the coolant system good to go, and will add the antifreeze/distilled water mix. Same with the oil pan. Hoping a few heat cycles when the engine is running will resolve the leaks at the pumps. After I get the cam broken in, I’ll deal with the oil pan leaks.

 

Water pump bolts tightened inside the pump. Used SS bolts. Was torqued to 30 ft-lbs, but increased it to 40 ft-lbs. Bolts did feel like they could use more tuque. Van Pelt says 23-28 ft-lbs. Speedway says 30 ft-lbs for their new pumps.
Repositioned both clamps on the elbows on the pump outlets. Really not much room for this style of clamp.
Used the die grinder to cut a relief in the battery crossmember for the drain petcock. You gotta love lying on your back with hot steel flying in your face on a Sunday morning. lol!
Ready to fill her up with the good stuff. After lunch, will head outside and work on the exh. Supposed to be 16C today.

 

Just picked this up for a pre-oiler.

 

Filled up coolant system. Took just over 8L of 50/50. Will install coolant fan tonight and overflow hose if I can find. Will also look at hooking up a throttle cable. Now on to the exh.

 

First tube welded in place. I think a better weld job than previously on the other one, but still a far cry from even a remotely competent welder. Neighbours are out, and I’m just counting the minutes before he comes over. The die grinder is about to wail. lol!

 

Second pipe is welded on. Did a first pass with the welds on the first one, and touched up with a few welds. Calling it a night for at least outside work.

 

Swapped fan over to the new rad. The extension brkts quite didn’t fit the top mounting holes so had to do a bit of trimming. Did find the overflow hose, but it’s too large for the barb on the new rad. Weird that the barb on the new rad is a bit smaller diameter.

 

Was going to use this cable for the throttle, but when I checked the throttle linkage on the carb, it was not springing back, so not sure what’s going on. Decided then to use it for the choke. Fabbed up a brkt mounted off of the coolant support to the breather tube. Will need to look into the carb tomorrow in case I need to order some parts.

 

So after going through almost every page of my build thread, I realized that I’m missing a link from the throttle plate linkage to the accelerator pump. The two I had from the original carbs were NS. I swear I ordered a new one from Vintage Speed, but it seems somehow I forgot. I also need the spacer that goes under the fuel filter bowl. Just have an old nut in there now.

 

The nut under the fuel bowl. Haha!



Will have to dig through the parts from the flathead I bought last year to see if I can find the link and spacer. Hopefully they are good enough to use and are not missing or NS.

 

Found the two NS links, but can’t find the carb or fuel pump. I’m sure I put them somewhere “safe”. Story of my life.
Was going to order another throttle/choke cable, then realized that I had already ordered a choke cable from Amazon last year. Found it. Also found two old army flasks. One I bought in Hershey, (with the canvass jacket), and the other I’ve had since being kid that my dad bought at an auction at some point. Will make that one my coolant overflow bottle. Also, realized I could use the oil pan from the motor I purchased last year. It’s in mint condition, but would need to be blasted, primed and painted.

 

It just dawned on me where the carb/pump might be. Yep, I need a drink already…

 

Talk about work tangents…

 

Carb came apart way too easily. I think with a thorough cleaning and new gaskets it would be good to go.
Finally managed to get the link off. After removing the “circlip”, I thought it would just fall out. It was stuck pretty good. Was wondering if the tip was threaded on as it looked a bit larger in dia. Managed to get it off with this forked screwdriver.

 

That threaded nut under the fuel bowl looked nasty. Thought it would require some heat to loosen, but after letting it soak with some PB Blaster came loose with some vice grips. The problem is that the nut and cup/spacer are held captive. Think I’ll cut the threaded stud and remove the cup. The wire clip is pretty corroded. Not worth saving this piece as a whole.

 

Glass bead blasted and ready for primer. Not going to bead blast the link.

 

Dupli-Color Aluminum top coat.



Choke cable installed.


Back to exh after lunch.

 

Got a late start after lunch, but all four tubes are welded to the collector. Might do some done grinding after supper inside the garage. They’re saying 75% chance of rain tomorrow.

 

Good thing I removed the carb to install the link.

 

There was what looked like some kind of pin passing into the thru hole in the accelerator pump rod. Managed to push the pin on the link through the hole in the accelerator pump rod despite that other “pin” protruding into the hole. Was also a pain to install that tiny circlip.

 

Surprised at the amount of corrosion. Was all bead blasted, painted and clear coated, except for mating surfaces, and the interior bits.

 

Removed this tapered plug. Not sure if it was supposed to seal on the taper, so just in case added some thread sealant.

 

Was scratching my head trying to figure out how to attach the throttle cable to the throttle “bullet” connector.

 

Can’t quite recall what the correct setting is for the idle screws, but seem to recall back them out 1.5 turns out from fully seated. Will need to verify. Also want to see what power/economizer valve I installed. Believe for a stk motor at sea level it should be a 7.5, and if you have a “hotter” cam, should be a 6.5. Being that my cam is not stk, I think I ordered and installed the 6.5. Also want to verify what jets I installed. Got everything from Vintage Speed and spoke to Charlie at length at the time, so I hope that I mentioned it somewhere or wrote it down.

 

Started working on the pre-oiler. It was full of crap, so decided if I use it, I’ll need to install my Ford remote filter housing and attach it to it.

 

Was in town yesterday to get some stuff incl batteries for my Land Cruiser so I could move it out of the garage and some room to work. Told the guy I needed 27F and he gave me 27R, so terminals are reversed and no good. So back in town to get the correct ones. Also, charged up the 6V battery for the speedster. Measures 6.47V, but load test shows it’s borderline weak. Will just get another as it was cranking over the flathead too slow IMHO.