My latest problem

I just bought this sling shot style steering arm because I think they are stronger than the tubular style and in my opinion they match the look of the axle better. My first proplem is the grease fitting is in the way of the arm. My second problem is I have an undropped axle and the arm is too close to the top of the axle and I will not be able to get a nut on the ball joint. Luckily, I don't have a spring perch there but still don't have enough room. I really don't want to use a tubular steering arm. I thought I could put some spacers between the arm and the backing plate to move the steering arm closer to the middle of the axle so the nut might clear. But that only might solve my second problem. Has anyone had these problems and can anyone give me some advice.

 

First the grease fitting.
I plugged the hole and drilled a new one (zircs are 1/4-28 ), and do not forget to groove the bushing so the grease gets to the slot.
As for the steering arm....You have 2 choices.
1st is to drill and tap for threads and run a heim joint.
2nd would be to shorten it an inch or so and weld it back together.
I would not lengthen it for 2 reasons..#1 it would slow down the steering and second thing is I would be concerned about the metal added to lengthen it being the same quality..This arm is forged steel and properly welded would be perfectly safe..
IMO !
Dave

 

The good old-fashioned hairpin steering arm is bent and contoured solid steel rod with a machined slug welded into the narrow end for the tie rod end and threads machined on the shouldered ends that go through the backing plate and spindle flange. Sadly they are now, and have for many years, been made in China. We sold many of them each year even after the China manufacturer shift and only occassionally had complaints about poor threads from worn-out tools, easily fixed but not very common.

 

The room between the tie rod end of the steering arm looks adequate for assembly.
If you insert the tie rod end stub into the hole, start the nut on it, then seat the end in the arm, you should be able to pull it up tight and get the cotter pin in and still have a smidge of clearance. There is no up and down play there.

 

I thought of drilling & tapping a new hole just wasn't sure about the bushing, but makes sence.I really want to use a ball joint ,I think it might just clear, it will be close.If it clears it clears.Once again experience is everything.Learing lots got lots to learn loving every minute of it.Thanks.