My New Nomad need love ID help too?

darn it, I can't quite make it out with certainty... 5 or S man they look close... I guessing it might actually be a 5 on because I don't have a better reason for it to be an S... 250hp... wow that would be slick...

 

killing you? it's killing me... I have to pay $35 a month to store the thing, I have 3 cars in my garage ahead of it, that I need to sell and I am dying to bump this thing over and hear it purrrr... I want to do it right though, and I know myself... I'll be dumping gas down that trashed carter wondering why it won't drive...

I figure if I wait unitl spring, at least I'll TRY to be patient... massage the crank with some hand turnovers, maybe some oil in all the right places, and change... some fresh gas, a fresh carb, plug and wires, and an HEI if I can fit it.... Then i will at least hear it...

 

Can anybody think of a quicker way to tell the motor without getting behind that block... my big' ol head and fat hands won't fit behind there...

I tried carb cleanear washdown, scraping at it with a screw driver, shining lights that are the temperature of the sun to melt it off, but I just can't see... I even held one of my kids over the top to see if their smaller head size could get closer...

Is there any short cut?

 

What you got there is a motor that someone lovingly assembled using a 283 block and 327 heads, you'll never know what's in it till you tear it down. Might be stock bore with flat-tops, might have pop-ups, might be bored all the way to 4", which would be 301c.i. with a 283 crank(3"" stroke), or 327 with a 3.25" crank.

I think I'd put one of the other cars in the storage so I could mess with that thing over the winter!

 

This sums it up pretty well....

 

Ahh I know... it's killing me... trouble is I have to sell the car's so I need to be able to get at them....

 

Meant to add that the previous owner said the above air cleaner was the stock Nomad one... I have never seen one before, but can anyone confirm?

 

Looks like a mopar one that went on a dual quad setup!

 

not sure what that air cleaner fits but its not for the nomad

 

Mopar dual quad inline air cleaner, they are worth a few bucks...

 

Stick that camera in behind the engine and click a couple off. Should fit where big heads don't!

 

I tried that too! my camera is so old I think its bigger than my head... but you just gave me an idea to use my phone... thanks!... Mnnn should I wait till March/

 

more info on the origination of the car...
the body # on the cowl tag starts with cl, that would be the cleveland manufacturing plant, apparently all nomad bodys start with a cl, since they were all built at the same plant (all convertibles have a L for lansing mi.)
then the bodys were sent to the various assembly plants, which would be why your vin has the T for the tarrytown ny assembly plant.

 

spray some oven cleaner on the casting numbers let it sit then rinse it off and hit it with wire brush then rinse again. mirror and good light should net some results. a hei wont clear the firewall so throw in a pertronix their a easy install and reasonable.

 

OK finally I have the ID numbers to the engine... it's been almost 6 months...


Here they are....

82964 is the number which is at 90 degrees and at the bottom of this sequence 38348 followed by a 4T on a calender.. any body know what this sBC is?

 

these photos absolutely stink...

6 months and you would think I could have a fresh camera battery... darn it

 

the rear casting number really isnt that important, its the front code that you already have the really decodes the motor, the rear casting number will get you a general ID of the motor, where as the front suffix tells you what it came in, hp, and at or manual trans.

so if you get a reall good read on the front and it really is sc then you already know what you have.

and it should be 7 numbers on the drivers side rear casting number, could it be:

3834810....283...64-66...2



jeff

 

Yep the rear looks like it could be a 3834810 or 3834812 the last 2 digits are really hard to read, but it does look like a 383481? is for sure....

 

Ok so now I am throughly confused...

I think I have a 283 block, but now I don't know what heads I have? I think the heads numbers are in fact TO225C but gosh I have no idea what that means or what that actually make the engine... I am not clear how a 283 which it seems to be could be any thing other than a 283... Does that mean the heads are not 283 heads? If they are not what does it mean if they are something other.... is the engine still a 283?

 

I just realized that the TO225C only meant some other ID on the block and not the heads... So if I am reading the thread right... it IS a 283 and could be original? With the double hump is there anyway that the heads could be original?

 

According to http://www.73-87.com/chevy_ids/blockid.htm the block shows as either a
<table bgcolor="#000000" border="0" cellpadding="4" width="100%"><tbody><tr><td>[SIZE=-1]1956-67 [/SIZE]</td> <td>[SIZE=-1]383810 [/SIZE]</td> <td>[SIZE=-1]283[/SIZE]</td> <td>[SIZE=-1]-[/SIZE]</td> <td>[SIZE=-1]- [/SIZE]</td> <td>[SIZE=-1]2[/SIZE]</td> <td>[SIZE=-1]-[/SIZE]</td></tr></tbody></table>
or a
<table bgcolor="#000000" border="0" cellpadding="4" width="100%"><tbody><tr><td>[SIZE=-1]1956-67 [/SIZE]</td> <td>[SIZE=-1]3834812 [/SIZE]</td> <td>[SIZE=-1]283[/SIZE]</td> <td>[SIZE=-1]- [/SIZE]</td> <td>[SIZE=-1]- [/SIZE]</td> <td>[SIZE=-1]2[/SIZE]</td> <td>[SIZE=-1]-[/SIZE]</td></tr></tbody></table>

but I am not sure about the heads...

 

Ok now I stumbled on this http://www.nastyz28.com/sbchevy/sblock.php#ecode

<table border="0" width="100%"><tbody><tr><td>1964-66</td><td>3834810</td><td>283</td><td>195</td><td>220</td><td>2</td><td>Car, truck & marine</td></tr></tbody></table>

Ok... i"ll have to wait for the experts to weigh in...

 

probably a 283 with the double hump/camel back/fuelie heads used on 327s from 62-67 if you pop a valve cover off the casting number (or at least the last 3) should be 461 or 462, 461 being 194 int 150 exh valves, 462 being 202 int 160 exh valves.

only one way to find out for sure what it is would be to take it apart, but who cares, get the baby running, tell people its a 283 with fuelie heads, do some burnouts and if shes tire, rebuild here, hopefully its bored .125 over and its a 301

jeff

 

thats the problem with castings number, so much miss info and they just give a broad breakdown of what it could be. that why to me the front code is most important

 

I was going to tinker with it today... If my local parts store has spark plugs (which knowing this hippie town will be a special order) than I will swap out some plugs, redo the points, get some wires and go from there...

Thanks for the info

 

R43 is the ac delco part number.

 

Buy a 1 gallon can, 6' of fuel line, disconnect at the pump, and hang it on the side. That way you don't have to deal with the tank and the rot. You might want to buy a cheap fuel pump as well and a new filter.

Ether is fine but I cheat and use a plastic coke bottle filled with gas and a small hole drilled in the cap to squirt into the carb. And, get a fire extinquisher! Safety first!! (Even if you don't like my coke bottle trick!)

 

If you've got the plugs out, I'd squirt a bit of Marvel Mystery Oil into each cylinder before you go cranking away. May need some top end lube and rings might be frozen up after sitting that long.

 

Did the oil thing last fall, and again last week... engine turns over fine... first thing i did was dump some old gas down the junk carb and see if it would spark... cranked the starter and it did fine... just sounded like there wasn't a spark...

next pulled a plug and tried to ground it... NO spark

replaced the coil the the dizzy wire... no spark
replaced the dizzy 2 to the spark 2 wire... no spark...

I know the dizzy is getting some juice because i got a mild shock from it... I can't seem to figure this one out... might be a bad distributor but when I pulled the cap it looked clean and the points were opening and closing just fine...

I might squirt it with WD with thoughts that the points were damp... that's about all I can think of...