Projects My roadster pickup project.

As I mentioned in another thread, I got my starter from Ross Racing this week and got it mounted on the engine. So glad I bought it, this should work great and it looks pretty cool too.



After I got the starter on the next thing I have to tackle is getting my remote oil filter setup installed. I have a Trans Adapt filter base but I don't like their hoses, they simply are held on with hose clamps and I didn't want to risk having an oil line blow off. So I decided to use all Russell AN hoses and fittings that are pretty much bulletproof.

First though, I had to find a good location for the filter and base, and the most logical place was running right along the frame rail beside the transmission. That is an unused spot and the filter will be protected from getting hit by anything. I drilled and tapped some 5/16 holes in the frame and got it mounted.



While I was at it, I also mounted the double pass cooler for the TH350 transmission behind the oil filter. I am also going to use Russell hoses and AN fittings on all of that too.







Once I had all that mounted I was able to make a list of all the parts I needed to plumb it in and called Summit to place my order. I should have all the fittings and hoses by Wednesday, so I can get the whole thing plumbed for the final time then. I went with number 8 AN hose on the engine remote oil filter ( didn't want to starve the engine of oil) but I ordered number 6 AN hose for the transmission cooler lines.

Not major progress, but this puts me one step closer to being able to fire the motor up for the first time. I have had the crankcase full of fresh oil and Lucas Break in Additive for a few years now, but I am going to drain that out , put fresh oil and more Lucas in there, and once the oil filter is plumbed in I can use my electric drill to spin the oil pump and get everything lubed up for the initial start up.

Don

 

Looking good! Have you used the rail mount aluminum trans cooler on other builds? If so, how does it compare to tube and fin. Looks very compact.
Earl

 

Yeah, we have used one three times so far. My 23 had one, my Son Dan has one on his rpu, and my Son Don has one on his T bucket. They seem to do a good job, especially the double pass ones like this one. Dan's and Don's are mounted exactly like this one but I mounted the one on my 23 across the front, under the engine.

Don

 

My parts arrived from Summit yesterday and today so I was able to make up my oil filter lines tonight and get them installed. There was a perfect spot to run the hoses down beside the right rear motor mount and they will clear everything tucked in there.









My Son Dan found me the perfect fitting to screw into my oil filter adapter that has 1/8 npt threads in it. I put my oil pressure sender in there and it lays in a good place to clear my firewall and all the other stuff.


After I got those installed I decided to try something that has been on my mind........I hooked up a battery and tried cranking the engine for the first time. IT CRANKED JUST FINE !! I was worried because I have so many non stock parts in the mix, like a starter switchover plate, a custom flex plate from Bendtsens, and the gear reduction starter from Ross Racing. I was afraid it wouldn't all mesh, but it did. What I did forget was to remove the rubber corks I had shoved in each sparkplug hole to keep dirt out, and as I was cranking the motor all these rubber bullets kept flying past my head ! At least I know I have compression.

Next step is to drain the oil and put new oil and Lucas Breakin Additive in the pan and prelube the engine with my drill. I will probably do that tomorrow night after work.

Don

 

The hose/filter setup looks very tidy. Are the hoses laying there "formed" to fit with no need for line clamp to hold them.
--motor turns---did any of the "bullets" stick in the wall-lol.
Earl

 

Yeah, I am only going to put a wire tie around them to keep the two together, no need to secure them beyond that. The lines are short and stiff enough to support themselves. I also don't want them bound too tight so they can move when the motor rocks.

When I get the transmission in and the transmission cooling lines hooked up I may do something to support those, they are a longer run and thinner hose.



Haha, I found one of those rubber plugs clear across the shop. I kept hearing popping noises and then I realized what was going on.

Don

 

Very tidy Don. JW

 

Very very nice on those oil lines and you have taught me something new too as when you mentioned AN Fittings, I automatically thought of those bright blue or red fittings and thought no, ugly, but what you have used look excellent. I chuckled out loud when I read about your rubber bullets flying around the shop, least they weren't from a policemans gun from one of your neighbouring States.

 

Whip, only one of the fittings came in that blue and I soaked it in Easy Off Oven Cleaner and removed the blue. The rest I was able to order in the "Endura" finish, like you see in the pictures. I love working with the AN stuff, it is so easy and only takes a few minutes to put the ends on. I am debating about doing the carbs with the same stuff. The black with blue tracer doesn't look too new and might look ok there.

I couldn't figure out what the popping was but my Son Don was helping me and he said "DUCK !" then it dawned on me what it was. I guess that 10.25 compression ratio has a little push behind it.

Don

 

Yeah the old looking hose does the trick just right. The fuel lines using the old looking hose too would be in fitting with the rest of the car now and certainly would be the way to go Don.

 

I used AN fittings on my trans cooler and they are cool to use. I used steel ones and they were still expensive. JW

 

You aren't kidding ! The order totaled a little over $250 for the two different size hoses and all the fittings to put them on. At least I got the free shipping over $99 from Speedway. Last night I realized I had forgotten to order two little fittings for the transmission so I ordered those and threw an electric fuel pump on the order to get to $99 again.

It's the little stuff that adds up on these builds. Every time I go to the hardware store I walk out with a little bag of misc bolts and nuts that comes to $30 or more. Those are the things we never think to add in when we tally up how much we have in these things.

Don

 

Man that is going to be one nice ride, when you are done. I love the 394 Olds. Great engine. Offenhauser parts are perfect sitting on top of it, huh? Pretty stuff. Digging the fabric lines, digging the white engine......................humidity or not, part time/full time be damned. You are doing some good work regardless of the previously mentioned. Can't wait to see the end results. Awesome. I like the first hot rod you built, but this one is going to take the cake.

 

Thanks for the nice words...........your monthly check is in the mail.

I really do appreciate it. I just got off work and am heading to the shop to change the oil and prelube it. Hope I don't find any leaks.

Don

 

Heck Mate, I too will fill your head with kind words and you post me a cheque aye, $100.00 will do nicely thanks....

I too am looking forward to seeing this beauty come together and it will be interesting to see photo's of it beside Dan's '30 Roadster Pickup as his body is the same from memory ?

 

Dan had this one on his rpu originally, Whip, but he bought a Brookville body and I moved this one to my side of the shop.

Well, my little project is going to take a slight backwards step. When I went to prelube it the other night oil was gushing out by the distributor shaft and not going where it was supposed to go. I PM'd Tony, from Ross Racing, and he knew instantly what was what. The guy who machined my motor forgot to put back a 3/8 allen head pipe plug inside the engine. Last night Dan and I removed a soft plug and sure enough, there was no pipe plug inside . We put one in and tried prelubing it again, and this time we had 50 psi oil pressure.

However, this started me thinking that if the machine shop screwed up that part, what else did they not do right. When I built this motor about 9 years ago I used a shop that had been recommended to me and the guy ended up being a flake. Took forever, and couldn't find half my stuff when I went to pick it up. He isn't even in business any more.

So, I have started disassembling the motor down to every last nut and bolt. I am going to strip the paint off and take it to the machine shop I now use and have everything remachined to make sure it is right. Plus, the motor has been sitting for all those years, so it will be a good idea to freshen it up. I'm really not too upset about it, I want this motor right and think it is better to do this now than once the car is all done. Just a temporary setback, and all it will take to solve the problem is more money.

Hot rodding is SO much fun !

Don

 

Best decision to make. Remember: No job's worth doing if you can't do it twice!

 

Hey Don, looking good so far. The engine is a setback, but better to get it right.
For the fuel lines to my carbs I am thinking on going this route.
Good quality modern fuel line that has the old time look.
I like it.
Check it out.
Larry
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...ne-fuel-line-cool-stuff.936915/#post-10546201

http://techafx.com/

 

Sorry to hear of the missing plug. I think your choice in taking motor down is the correct one.

I failed to do that on a 454 I purchased in past. Work was done by a "good shop" but I was told may want to check it out by someone I know. I did not do so and when I installed/drove truck, oil pressure dropped a little and had odd noise. Pulled pan and-----Crank was 10 under with correct bearings on mains. Rods were 20 under with 10 under bearings. Ended up needing new crank, overall a Expensive lesson!
Earl

 

That is exactly what my fear was, Earl. The other thing is that I put this motor together 9 (maybe more) years ago and it has been sitting all that time unfired. I did lube everything from time to time, even the cylinders, but the rings have probably lost tension and so have the valve springs.

I bet the machine shop finds lots of things wrong with the first machine job. I am going to try to have it torn down this week or next week so I can drop it off.

Don

 

Made the first step in getting this thing ready for the machine shop. Went to the shop tonight, pulled the heads off and got the engine out. I am off tomorrow and Saturday, so I plan on getting it all dismantled and the paint stripped off. Maybe next week I can drop it off for remachining.

I stopped at the Dollar Store and bought a bunch of baggies and containers to put all the removed parts in so that I won't be hunting all over for them when****embly time comes around.

Don

 

Shame to have to tear it apart but it's the right call in the end. If one mistake is found how many others could go unfound

Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

You are right, and the more I tore down the engine the more I didn't like what I was seeing. The block simply didn't look "machined".

By contrast, I am putting together a 350 Chevy motor right now that the new machine shop did for me and it is like night and day, compared to the Olds block. Pistons are marked with the exact size of each one and they bored each hole to match that piston. Plus, all the deck surfaces and the rest are spotless and machined perfectly. The other night I started****embling the Chevy block and it went together like it should, every part fit great.

Last Wednesday I dropped the Olds engine off and should know this week what they find. They are going to check it over and tell me what is needed to make it right. I suspect line boring, decking, hot tanking again, and all the usual stuff. I am also going to have them redo the heads and balance the whole thing.

One thing that really concerned me was that when I got the engine back from the first guy years ago, the cam wouldn't slide into the bearings. I called him and he said sometimes they are tight and to take some 1000 grit and hone the bearings out a little. I did, and finally got the cam in, but when I tried to remove it the other night it was still very tight and I had to spin it with a wrench to get it to turn. I think he had the wrong bearings in the wrong spots. Maybe that is why I wasn't getting oil to the rockers.

Don

 

Holy keeerappp! Things that make you go WTF, Volume 42...

 

WOW---old shop said to--sand bearings to fit cam---I think you made correct call on having "new" shop check motor out.

Earl

 

Hell yeah Don, a close call with the engine there and imagine if you had run it for awhile, it could of got real costly real quick. Atleast you will now know that it is perfect to****emble and go.

 

I never liked to have an engine together for more than 2 weeks without firing it off and bringing it up to temperature. Once that is done, then the engine can sit long periods without too much concern.

 

Hey Don, I just thought of checking up on your thread and there has been loads going on !!! Not sure whats happening to this site these days as i'm subscribed to your thread but never recieve any notifications anymore ???

Anyway its all looking great.

 

Any progress Don ???

 

Just as an update to this, I actually contacted the guy about a fuel line setup for my RPU and after a few back and forth e-mails discussing things he just stopped getting back to me.
Left me wondering what it would be like if I actually sent money and made an order.
(Which was hard to do in the first place without being able to have him figure out the parts for my components and put together a package-quote.)