This is the tailgate on my 54 Chevy.I have ordered POR-15 but I need to get rid of as much of this rust as possible.`I also went to Wally world and bought a ****load os sandpaper. I dont have a sandblaster. What would you do to it?All of the rust is surface rust. I've searched the HAMB forums and couldnt find a post that dealt with what to do w/a rusty part that is going to have some(a lot of) rust left on it after hand sanding.Will POR-15 take care of it?
Gl*** bead , primmer and paint ! If there are any dents or rust holes , then straighten or weld and grind , then get ready for paint . Good Luck !
could use a wirewheel on a drill if your not fussy,just make sure theres no grease on it,at least it wont leave sanding marks
soak it in mol***es yup mol***es http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=142435&highlight=mol***es later jim
damn sure can read,but the dude lives in a big friggin city that is bound to have at least one shop to blast it for him. hell never mind,,,i'll drive out and take it to town for him.... gotta figure some of this **** out for yourself...
Sand until all the rust you can get off is gone. Plan on a few days of diligent sanding. I would work in small areas to keep my sanity. Yes, POR 15 will do it great, that's what it was invented for. After the sanding, or brushing, do the welding/hammering/smoothing before putting on the POR15 Don't get it on anything but the work area! A pint will be more than enough for that tailgate.
A 4 1/2" knotted wire wheel on an angle grinder will remove every bit of it, without hurting the metal.
heres the question..... rust left on it after hand sanding.Will POR-15 take care of it? thats what he is asking...maybe he cant afford 40 bucks...maybe he doesnt want to mess with takin it somewhere....really, his question is simple... old fart, if by "take care of", you mean will it rust again, then NO...not according to there label!<!-- / message --><!-- attachments -->
POR 15 if you don't plan on painting it any other color. Once the POR 15 cures it makes a lousy substratus for any other paint to adhere to. Like others have said, media blasting makes the most sense. You'll use $20-40worth of materials no matter how you do it so why not hire it out and get it done right?
Wrong. Ask the POR15 supplier for instructions how to apply color. The wheels and parts of the fenders on this car were all done with POR15. It was done over 10 years ago and still looks like new. The color is two part, one step, Acrylic Enamel. After done, you couldn't tell what parts were done with POR15. The beauty of POR15 is that if you don't get all of the rust it don't matter. The process has been in use for a long time and everybody that I know that FOLLOWS THE DIRECTIONS love it. Over it, paint don't blister, or bubble. It's simply, put good stuff. Considering the price you pay for sandblasting, a gallon of POR15 will be enough to do the frame and everything else, springs wheels, etc for an entire car and you'll have a lot left over. Don't put the lid on the can without a sheet of plastic baggie or something under the lid, or you will be cutting it open the next time!
My experience with POR-15 is that sand blasting is cheaper and I would think better. I have used it and it does work but keep in mind it is at least two parts and they recomend three parts. Last time I bought some it was $29 to do 12 square feet. If it is going to be subject to sunlight you have to cover it with a top coat of paint.
29 Nash, to each his own. My experience with it has been good on ch***is and suspension parts so far but I can't see using it on the exterior surfaces of any body parts and then painting over it without as much or more prep and expense than it takes to do it right in the first place. Blocking and roughing the surface of the POR after it cures takes considerable effort. I inadvertently sprayed DP on a small portion of my ch***is and I was able to scratch it off with little effort. Not the best application of a good product in my opinion.
Son of a *****!Can't I post one thing on here that doesn't turn into an argument? Delete this friggin post and forget about it.
haha...nah, its all good...i was just pointin out that the sheep cant read, they just type without reading...then i got punk'd cause i didnt read it good enough either!
Dude, chill out. This is what ya do, look in the phone book for powder coating business, they will have the best sandblasters in the world. Powder coating guys charge almost nothing to sand blast, and use good media and dont warp by getting it to hot. In my experiances, they just do a better job than a place that just sandblasts. The por-15 will work, but as said, you really should epoxy seal it instead. Then do your bodywork, prime, paint.
Brush on some muriatic acid from home depot, let it sit a while, then attack with scotchbrite, gloves, and goggles. If it doesn't rinse to silver metal, repeat. After this is done you'll have to sand 100% of the etched surfaces. They get "shark skinned" from acid attack plus rust pitting. good luck
Don't apply POR 15 until you have done your welding it totally contaminates surfaces to be welded on. This is from experience and my opinion. (or learn the hard way, your choice!) Good luck Dave
As it is a 54 Chev. you should be able to pick up a repro for a couple hundred, balance you time to restore vs buying new.
Hey Lincoln,When can I expect you? I used to be a Cop in a hole in the road called Hobart Ok.,maybe I can call some of my ol' cronies & get you a Police ******.
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