Technical My truck is WAY TOO low! What do I do now?

Let me start at the beginning. About 5 years ago I came across a cab and frame for a 40 Ford pick up project. I took it to a local hot rod shop and asked them to lower it and showed them a picture of what I wanted. Now I never told them I wanted a trailer queen set up meaning I didn't want to so low as to not be able to drive it. They knew I wanted to drive the shit out of it. So a good amount of $$ later and I had a roller. It looked nice sitting there with just an engine block and no bed. At that time I had about 5" of clearance I guess? This was my first build so I was no expert in the affects of load on a suspension etc.....so I trusted the shop that I would end up with something drivable and with enough clearance to clear a very low speed bump or even a driveway lip. Wrong assumption on my part! The other issue was they set the flatty on such an extreme angle (9 degrees) that I was told be just about everyone who looked at that the front cylinders and front trans gears would to receive proper lubrication AND the rear differential was also at an extreme up words angle also at about 9 degrees giving me a total of 18 degrees between the two. I ended up taking the truck to another shop to "fix" the previous issues. Some more $ later and I had what I thought was a much better set up and it truly was....however......I have always been concerned that it would eventually sit too low (below scrub line) and cause issues. I still have the doors to ad (40 lbs) the 11 gal fuel tank (66 lbs when full), my own ass (215lbs), and another aluminum bomber seat. All total.....another 331 lbs. to add. And is almost forgot....a passenger of approx 200 lbs? So now I'm at 531 lbs!!

So here is my issue, I took the truck off the jack stands to see how it looked and as I suspected all along it was still too low and it now sits at 2.5" at the lowest!!!!! Needles to say I am very frustrated at this entire project. What are my options to get it up at least 1.5" - 2". I am currently running a Posie reverse eye and a 1/2" spacer under crossmember. To top it all off, the initial shop put the wrong length spring under it as my shackles in front sit vertical under proper load. I was going to try another Posie REGULAR EYE spring of the proper length and see what happens. I am trying to not dump too much more into this so any fix must be affordable. What else can I do to fix this ride height issue? Thanks for any suggestions.

 

yikes - looks like a 4 wheel drive truck - Ha! know that is not funny to you. but, many here say that it can not be too low. have any pics of frame, with suspension/axles on it without body/bed to post? need more info to help figure out why so low. hold off buying more parts for now.

 

Looks like you have a "Z'ed" frame - gonna be tough to make changes given that. Is the front axle dropped or stock? Front spring is relatively easy, but you need to keep in mind the steering geometry. Out back, What suspension? Taller rear tires may be the only option.

 

Judging by your pictures, You gotta lot of work to do before you worry about ride height,, stay the course, keep on track, get it done and driving, THEN worry about ride height, Your worry-ING about the wrong thing.
Have an illustrator draw a picture of what your final vision is, kinda like a BLUEPRINT. Establish a theme that you want it to look like when it is drivable, They are never done. If you have your blueprint on paper, anyone that helps you will be able to see what your final vision will be, and help you move project forward.. Show us picture you took to first shop...Every shop will tell you the last one did all things wrong..
At different times , pull, push, or suck it outside, get back and take a look a it while you sit down and have a cool drink. See if it matches your vision..Are the tires all the same size? Give us a good side shot, of it off stands..

And quit going to different shops, every move is going cost you big bucks $$$$$ !!!!

 

lifting a truck/car is easier than lowering after the fact. I like it now, you have to adapt a different driving style. (man holes are a bitch)

 

Speed bumps and curb cuts are going to eat the bottoms of your doors alive. It's hard to make suggestions without a few more detailed pictures of your chassis mounting points. Everything can be fixed. Post more pictures!

 

Is it the cab that is too low? No scrub issues with suspension?
If the frame and suspension sit how you like, could you raise the cab a little?

 

As stated tough to say without more info/pics. The right springs will help, if the axle is dropped then maybe going back to stock will get you where you want. Taller tires will help but then you might be dealing with ratio problems (shifting, speedo inaccurate, sluggish).

Looks good to me...I have driven shit way lower than that. You really learn how to drive when you have to watch for caterpillars in the road....

 

If the body has rubber bushings between the body and frame, check off road site for taller bushings. or you can make taller body mounts pretty easy,or you can drive very cautiously. looks pretty cool,although as it settles,its prolly gonna get even lower.

 

I say get it up and going first, and drive it. If you still think it's too liw, fix it then. I'd hate to see you spend a lot of time and money on something that may not be a big deal in the end.

 

Just find bigger (taller) wheels and tires!
Don't wory too much!

 

Take your time, figure out how to fix it on your own while you work on everything else. Then, after you fix it yourself, you'll never take it to a shop again! $$$$$$$

 

find a front loader and remove all of the speed bumps(sleeping policemen) in your area.

 

I agree with everyone else, finish the build first. and make suspension adjustments after its rolling. That thing has a killer stance right now and you might find you can roll it as is. My old 31' had 2 1/2" clearance between the frame/ axle and it never hit.

 

See how many leaves you have in the front spring. If less than stock, try a stock spring without the reversed eye. I' ll bet that will get you a couple inches.

 

I like your truck so far!

But we need more pics, so we can help, but also because it's a bitching truck!

There is so many way to raise it, so we need to know what you got so far.
Maybe post you nearest city, so a HAMBer can swing by and give you some hands on advice. Also if there is more mistake from the shops, that you overlooked.
Safety comes first! And looks and speed goes hand in hand. And that looks fast!

 

First of all, thanks to everyone who cared enough to respond. I tried to find enough pics to give you all a better idea of what you wanted to see. I have to upload additional pics in another post as it looks like I reached the limit in this one? Anyway, here are the pics I included: (in order)
1. The original inspiration of Honest Charlie's truck. Yes its low but mine still has more weight to be added.
2. Rolling chassis at my place. No real weight in it. This is BEFORE I had the other shop fix the engine and trans angles issues and raise the rear several inches.
3. View of frame and cross members (welds have been cleaned up)
4. Truck sitting AFTER we corrected the above mentioned issues.
5. Rear differential pic
6. Rear end (Banjo) pic
Someone asked about the frame 'Z' I have not measured it, but you can see from pic #2, there is a good amount of 'Z' both front and rear. Looking back it think it was WAY TOO MUCH! Unfortunately I did not understand how much they were going to give it. So it is what it is as they say. I am running a a drop 4" front axle. A Posie reverse eye lowered front spring and rear. Basis shocks. Tires are 15" and I like the difference between them so not willing to change that right now. VERDE742 suggested having a drink, stepping back and looking at it from time to time. Brother trust me, I have done that plenty! I also realize I need to approach this with a "different driving style" in mind and I know that. Speed bumps, crest in driveways etc.... are all on my radar. Someone asked if the cab was below the frame and no it is not. The cab is up about an inch above the bottom of frame rail. Someone said they drove stuff lower than this....Damn!!!!! And amen to not going to any more shops. I have two good things to take from this project. 1. My daughter was involved in a lot of the project since HS (she just graduated college, ya 5 year project) and I now know EVERY inch of this vehicle. So if something goes wrong I should know where to look first ha ha! I will post some more pics in a few minutes.

 

Here are some more pics. This should give you a better idea of what went on during the initial build. I talked to the Psoie rep today and believe it or not, they were able to research the springs the original shop ordered me and the front is 2" too long! This explains why the shackles sit straight up and not at an inward 40-45 degrees. Right there tells me I need to replace the front spring. He also told me if I go with a REGULAR EYE spring I would gain 2" immediately. I will likely end up replacing the spring to correct this error. I may take the advice given by a few here and finish it all the way, drive it and then decide if it needs a new spring etc...? It's just disappointing to get this far and STILL have to deal with a clearance issue. Oh well....that's what makes it fun right?

 

Fellow HAMB'er Volvobrynk suggested I "post my nearest city, so a HAMBer can swing by and give you some hands on advice." I live in Denton Maryland on the eastern shore so if you live near me and want to drop by, please let me know. Thanks!

 

Good luck. I know the worry about driving a car that's too low. I bought a 49 Ford with MMII front end, actually a complete T-Bird clip. The car looked kool with long cruiser skirts and side pipes. My toe would barely go under the door and side pipe. I couldn't pull in anyplace with a dip, speed bump, or small alligator sleeping. It wasn't really fun to drive. I'm with you, get it raised up so you can drive it and enjoy the truck.

 

goin' up is way easier than goin' down,
back to regular programming..

you gotta lot of work / worries to go.

 

Dude, I'd love to have that truck! That being said, I'm always tearing mine down and fixing/changing things the more that I drive it.

 

Hard to tell from the pic's, but can you put like 1" spacers on top of the leaf springs? Also as stated above, taller tires.

 

Hey Verde742, I hope I am misunderstanding you but I can assure you I am not looking for attention! I'm looking for suggestions and help. After digesting everything suggested and explained, I am going to have to replace the spring with one that is the proper length where the shackles sit correctly. That will provide the needed height. Maybe I. Issued your humor?

 

OK I will delete it, Just seems so basic that altering the springs, is such a simple fix..

I don't recall ever someone wanting knowledge of HOW TO RAISE UP A HOT ROD.. gasser? maybe , Hot Rod, seem pretty Ez..

 

Can you show us the picture you started with, from 5 years ago?
You wouldn't even need to replace your spring, if you re-arched it and the second leave, and maybe even the third But when your springs are re-arched, as I described, and eliminate the reversed spring eye. You will accomplish two items, 1. You will shorten the spring, which will allow your shackles to hang at the correct angle.
and 2. You will raise your vehicle at least couple inches.


You can't run me off, I am an interested old man. I be watching..!!!

 

Draw it up Verde

2" too long eye to eye that means the arch needs to go how far?

 

WELL, First off, I like to do everything the hard way. Front spring? So I would take the spring apart Draw a chalk line on flat concrete, above and below, and around reversed spring eye.
@ 2 inches shorter, that is one inch on each side, I would prefer to use two railroad rails but two hard wood 4x4's have worked about 5-7 inches apart. nail them to a pc.of plywood to keep them separated for the entire procedure: starting at one end, and use a damn heavy hammer with a short handle, you can mark 5 inch increments, start beating the arc out of it, and reversing the arc, after you have done it for awhile, you can make other hits in between increments to create nice arc. Hold it down to the diagram on the concrete and follow the pattern until it is totally reversed, with the mail leaf on the pattern I would measure from the center hole and keep pounding till it had more of an arch, reversing the leaf side to side to keep the arc uniform. Then I would install the main leaf and look at shackles. If they were straight or 85-90 degrees to the floor. I would look at second leaf, or replace with different one and re-arc it. place it on top of first leaf, adjust accordingly, and look at third, or maybe this will be the fourth,,maybe re-arc it a bit. Each leaf will be shorter than the one below it.
Its not rocket science, BTW, usually with a reversed spring eye, the second leaf is either shortened on each end or eliminated, now would be a good time to replace that leaf.
With the stock type leaf and a different second leaf, you will raise your ride. The long leafs are for ride, the short stacked on top determine how high the car will ride. you will want all the leafs within the cross-member, stack them till they are flush with bottom of cross-member replace u-bolts and plate with 5 holes in it. don't forget the little U-bolts that hold it together on each end. Hope this helps: repeat on back if it has similar spring.

 

It's not a big deal, plenty of ways to bring it up a little, you'll get plenty of ideas here. I've got just a little over 4" of clearance on my avatar, good for me in Minnesota.

 

Raising is easy, spring change front and rear. Bigger issue is you are just running parallel radius rods in the rear with no torque tube or additional bars for torque. Those radius rods aren't designed or capable of locating the rear end alone. You need additional link bars on the rear.