Had a couple of hours spare this afternoon so decided to make a progressive linkage, Some of the bits that came with the carbs was Lokar but I was missing the main link rod between the 2 carbs, A quick search around the net gave me a picture so I found some round aluminium bar so drilled and tapped it to make it adjustable lengthwise, a small rose joint on the end and it all looked fine, the other end I machined up a bit of stainless to make a slotted end to make it progressive, my new milling machine has come on handy once again, how did I ever get by before I had it A quick polish and thats another pesky job ticked off .
very nice! Are you going to use the chokes on the carbs? if not I would remove the choke plates and all the linkage to clean things up a bit, maybe ditch the Edelbrock and Made In USA stickers, then they look like they belong.
Steve, looking great as usual, love the attention to details! I may never get past the bodywork stage on mine.... lol
The eddys are made in the U.S. according to the website: "Every Edelbrock carburetor is manufactured by Magneti Marelli Powertrain USA Inc. and has been specifically designed and tuned by Edelbrock engineers to provide the widest overall torque range." Weber is a division of Magnetti Marrelli, Weber bought the AFB design from carter and changed it a bit, then licensed Edelbrock to sell them. Just personal taste, but the Edelbrock and Made in USA stickers take away from the mechanical simplicity look of the AFB.
Langy fantastic work as usual. I have a question on your linkage. Are you using the rear carb as the primary carb and the front as secondary or am I not seeing it right? Usually it's just the opposite.
Well whilst waiting for my heads to arrive I decided to make front & rear anti roll bars for the car, they are made from Chromemoly tube, 1" at the front & 3/4" at the rear, I'm using some Energy Suspension ch***is mounts and an adjustable link each end comprising of 3/8" rose joints and some turned down stainless hexagon bar. The dual blades each end get boxed off to stop any twisting.
Everything about this car is so stunningly nice... I give up... am selling my junk and buying a Toyota. You have talent and it shows.
Beautiful... just fantastic looking car. I think you actually picked the right color going with old race car grey.
So did you have a way of determining shaft size and arm length? or are you just taking a wag at it and rebuild latter if neccisary? I have thought about doing the same on one of my cars and just wonder if i could save some time with some calculations or just go for it and and redo if needed.
Calculated it mate, there is a chart on the Hotchkis site somewere, I reckon a 1" OD will do for me just about right.
Its only fabrication Eric, anybody can do it, you need to have a vivid imagination though Your build is looking great, must paint time soon ?
That sway bar is so cool! What is the Wall thickness? Or ID compared to OD? How thick and long is the bars/plate at the end? Could it be done with normal miled steel pipe, in a different size/wall thickness?
Its 1" OD Chromemoly tube, its either 0.83" or 0.95" I will have to check as can't remember, 36" long Blades are 5" centres and are 1/8" BMS although I may remake them as I now have some Chromemoly plate Normal steel tube is no good as it don't have any memory.
Okay Can you please send a link to that chart, so I can find out what size of pipe I need for my Volvo projekt. I cant find it, but I don't exately what I'm looking for, and it might be the wrong page I went too.
Here ya go, I would suggest starting with a 1" OD http://www.hotchkis.net/_uploaded_files/hollow_vs_solidinstructions162file.pdf
Well it appears the bad luck fairy has struck Got a message saying my heads were gonna be ready next week so got the machined block out of storage and thought I would put the short motor together , I had previously done all the machine work including hot tanking the block, crack testing, drilling out the oilways, drilling larger oil returns, over boring, doweling the main caps etc etc, basically a ****load of work It had been stored in my lockup in a sealed bag to keep it clean, Jason came round to help me get it on the engine stand, we rolled it over and Jason said "whats that line for ?" I looked and it wasn't a line but a hairline crack about 1" up from the pan rail, its so fine its extremely difficult to see but it makes the block s**** Had a cup of tea and decided to go get the spare block from the lockup and strip it out and take it to be hot tanked before starting the maching all over again. Jason kindly helped me strip it and get back into the car so I could take it in the morning. We checked for cracks and found nothing You ain't gonna believe this , Got to the engine shop and asked it to be hot tanked first, Peter the owner looks inside and says "this one is ok" About an hour later Peter rang me to say he had checked the progress of the block in the tank and now it looked like it also had a crack in the same place I drove back and sure enough it had a hairline crack ****** !!! Luckily my mate Shaun (rockit) has a spare 500 block and is gonna lend it to me and I can replace as soon as I locate a good one, I just need to get from Preston to Watford Its baffled me how these cracks could appear even after checking, 3 different people have looked at this block and nobody noticed it anybody got any ideas ??? .
I have ran in to the same issue. Nearly every 500 I have got out of an Eldorado has that pesky line. Our local Caddy collector won't sell a 500 if it was ever bolted up to a front wheel drive transmission. Something about the frame flex on the early torsion bar suspension. We all have our fingers crossed that you find a good one.
The Jalopy Journal
