Yes amazing stuff when applied correctly, I don't want to get into the usual argument about its use but I worked at the race shop that prepared the GT40's that won the LeMan 24hr in 66 and the Gulf Mirages later and all the engines there were painted inside with Glyptal.
Starting to think someone upstairs don't like me !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Got crank back and fitted bearings, open up gasket set and found no rear main seals FFS !!!!
Got some brilliant news this morning my heads are done and gonna be shipped tomorrow, fingers crossed all will go smoothly. In the meantime the rear main oil seals arrived from Shaun (thanks mate) so ***embly was on this weekends agenda, I thought I would get the crank, pistons & rods in the block and degree the cam in but it was 130 degrees inside so rolled it outside, even outside the spanners were getting so hot you couldn't hold them !!! First job was to gap all the rings which didn't take much time at all, then onto fitting the piston pins in the rods, The rods were setup for pressed pin or full floating, mine are full floating and a little tight so I popped to the machine shop and honed them out slightly to give .0008" clearance, the pins are located by 2 spirolocks either side, they are pesky little things to get in and even worse to get back out again !!! Next job was to get the roller cam in and timing gears fitted so I could get the cam dialed in with a degree wheel, I'm using a hydraulic roller cam so had to make a cam ****on to keep the cam in the same place in the block, I gave it .060" clearance For those that don't know a normal flat tappet cam is ground with a slight angle on the lobes which keeps the cam in the block and stops it walking forward, a roller cam is ground flat so needs a can ****on to keep it in place. I'm using a Comp Cams Magnum true roller timing set, nicely made set. I had already machined double keyways into the crank so all that was needed was to mod the oil slinger to slide over both of the keyways. Virtually complete except for the heads which hopefully will get here sometime next week. .
more automotive art from my favorite builder across the pond...or however they say that lol great work Steve
I had someone ask on another forum what degreeing a cam in was, thought I would post my reply here too, might help somebody Degreeing means you are making sure the camshaft's position in the motor matches that of the crank, then their rotation is synchronized. This is the only way you will know if the rise and fall of the pistons properly matches the opening and closing of the valves, so the engine will run correctly. A few degrees of misalignment will really make a huge difference. If we lived in a perfect world you would just need to line up the dots on the timing sprockets and the cam would be degreed. Unfortunately we are dealing with 4 different parts all which have their own manufactoring tolerances namely the crank, the cam, the chain & the gears so it can throw off alignment. Unless you degree the cam you will never really know if they are where they should be. Its a fairly easy job to do but will take time to do correctly, You will need a piston stop, a dial indicator, a pointer (usually a bit of welding rod, a degree wheel, a pencil & paper for your readings, your cam card that came with your cam, and some sort of a stand for the dial indicator. One thing to remember when dialing in a cam is if you make a mistake and rotate the motor past the point to take a reading,don't turn back the rotation. If you was to any slack in the chain or slack in the gears will cause an error. If you p*** the the point, just carry on turning the motor in the normal direction until you come back to the original point. There is a couple of ways of advancing or retarding your cam, Performance timing chain sets have the lower crank sprocket machined with three or more keyways, this allows you to advance or retard the cam. Another 2 popular methods are by using offset keys and also eccentric bushings or vernier timing wheels. I was gonna do a small video but there is an excellent video here on youtube that will talk you through it, this guy talks plain and you should be able to follow it easily http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-VwsbEg7Z4I Heres a few pics of when I did mine, you should get the general idea, I made an adjustable long lifter for mine from a piece of old steering shaft but some people use an old lifter with a bit of round bar welded to it, does the same job :clapping:
While awaiting the arrival of my heads I amused myself making a Pro light, I didn't really want one but after this engne costing what it has I think a warning device was a good idea. I'm amazed by the prices of these things $50 up to hundreds !!! Made mine from s**** stainless from my s**** bin, add an old bulb holder and I got a Pro light for free !!! Its certainly bright !!! Gonna do the same with the adjustable shift light next.
Been amusing myself sorting all those pesky little jobs while I await my heads, one job thats been bugging me is the edge of the doors where the windows are, been looking for a rubber trim for ages, found a few close ones but no cigar until I saw one in the Baines Rubber catalogue, sent for 4 metres and it fits absolutely spot on !!! Even fits nice around the tight corners, I stuck it place here and there with some contact adhesive.
Heres a pic of the section, Part number Baines rubber IRS 1120EP <script type="text/html" id="overlay_tmpl"> </script>
Changed my prop loop, I had a flat bar type that was like a big oval but it looked a bit ****py, So made a bolt in jobbie, It looks heavy but its not as a lot of it is 3/32 plate.
Nice job Langly, don't go too long before a fresh oil filter, all that "moly lube" can "stuff up" the oil filter pretty quickly. Also might want to wipe the excess moly off the cyl. walls, while your turning the short block over. Grease in that area can lead to detonation pretty easly, that and the burn from the grease can kill the ring tension very quickly. Also something I didn't know until we started producing alloy rods here at Carrillo, moly lube can attack aluminum in an acidic type of way, it would take a bit of time, but is not something you want on aluminum as it turns out. I know in the old days guys would put "white grease" on every thing.., really bad if let sitting for a long time as the grease goes a bit plastic eventually and can lead to stuck rings, as well a contribute to the affore mentioned problems from moly lube in this area. The compression ring doesn't exactly "seat in" by rubbing up and down on the cyl. wall, it actually needs to "bed/lap" into the ring groove roof and floor. The seal against the cyl. wall is a "hydraulic seal" greated by the ring face, and the oil held on the cyl. wall by the cross hatch. The moly lube will also prolong the time it takes to "bed the rings in", not help,(another reason many don't like breaking ring in on synthetic oils). Its best to just use a good non synthetic oil with a good "friction package/ZDDP when running in the engine. DEFINETLY NOT "busting your balls" mate, I just wanted to let you in on a few things I've learned from being in the piston biz for sometime now. *****en build, and very impressed/proud your going with early Cad power. I'll be watching.
Thanks dude, its always good to hear the latest methods out there, I don't have to worry about breaking in the cam as its a roller, The moly is Isky rev lube but same sort of thing i believe, its only really there at the moment to keep everything greased as heads still not arrived yet, I will wipe it and oil before the heads go on. As soon as it has run for a few minutes I will of course drop the oil & filter and change for new. Personally I prefer to run new motors on Valvoline or similair, I'm not a fan of fully synthetic in a new motor. Glad you enjoyed the build so far, <script type="text/html" id="overlay_tmpl"> </script>
I found this and have been using it as well as Delo 400. We have a good old school family owned (Eds Auto Parts) near my house and he keeps the Kendal with zinc for all our old flat tappet engines.
Well very little to do now, just scratching around looking for stuff really, Got an email on monday saying my heads have finally been shipped, with a bit of luck i will have them saturday morning. Was hoping to make the Hotrod drags with a bit of luck. Treated myself to a couple of Stewart Warner mechanical gauges, Fuel pressure on the left & Boost gauge on the right. 44 Had to fit a fuel gauge isolater as fuel not allowed inside car in drag rules, the isolator can't be fitted on the firewall as that not allowed either, Mounted it to the firewall tube, plumbed them in with stainless hoses.
The Jalopy Journal
