Okay, basically I made no progress, but removed one nut. It took me 2 hours to get the one nut off and try to cut out the other. The damn bolt just wont come out...does anyone have any suggestions? I have tried a sledge, torching the nut out (by the way the nut is too long into the bone to dig out) I cut off the tops of one side and still nothing. Its is glued together...I feel like Im digging a hole to china...Im not getting anywhere but irritated. Now thats off my chest. I have noted the end of the bone where the original spring was. Do I hack it off even to match the under part of the bone? Thanks...(I ran out of oxygen (torches) too, what a pisser)
looks like you got the nut off??? back in mn i used to have to sacrifice the axle or the bone but ca rust cant be that bad... now that the nuts off you have to heat the perch boss red hot on both sides of the axle and punch the perch out with a air hammer
no..... but it only has a couple of thou. clearance and 60 years of rust when i put them back together i use a little anti sieze.....dont hammmer on the perch with a reg hammer if you mushroom the tip or bend it you wont get it out ....
i just took mine apart a couple of weeks ago, i could either use a press and no heat, or have plenty of heat where i did not have acess to a press! so i went with plan "c" and slapped it in the mill and drilled out the perch bolts, leaving a flat at the bottom to press on, you could do it by hand, and it probably would still be easier than trying to beat them out! if you "hollow out" the bolt, it will relieve some of the pressure on the sides from the rust. good luck is all i can say at this point!
Since not using the end of the bone for the stock spring, can I cut that off to make the bones w/ a "C" shape on the end. The springs are going to be mated w/ the bones for suicide front end.??
Dude, if thats all there is to your worst nightmare, consder yourself lucky! I woke up freaked out cause I had this one where these three orcabetties were...eeeeh... *shudder*
[ QUOTE ] Since not using the end of the bone for the stock spring, can I cut that off to make the bones w/ a "C" shape on the end. The springs are going to be mated w/ the bones for suicide front end.?? [/ QUOTE ]do it all the time i like the later wishbones cause they are stronger than the As and way cheaper than 32-34s
It took alot of heat,and alot of pressure to remove my perch bolts. Next time I'll drill them out as big as possible,then get the BIG hammer. You can cut and grind the spring perch end off so it looks like the earlier 'bones.
Here is an update on one bolt removed. Damn, it took a total of 7 hours, drilled it out all the way through, broke 2 punches, and 1 chisel flatten (damn harbor freight tools) and tons, and I mean tons of heat. In fact, I ran out of oxygen so I had to pick up another bottle today. This M.F. was a pain in the****s!!!! I crushed my had 4 times ....Man this had better be worth it...(heh, i know it will ) Here is a pict of the bolt from hell, I think the devil himself*****ped out this one....Im just glad I got it out....now its time for the other one.....
A process that this old timer gave me has worked every time for me. 1st, soak the pear bolt in penetrating oil like you have done. Next, heat the axle up around the perch. You need to get it pretty hot. This causes the axle to slightly expand around the perch and break the rust seal. Next soak the axle again with penetrating oil. Heat it one more time and you should be able to pop the perch out with a 5lb hammer pretty easily. Let me know if it works.
Heat the bolt (slowly and from both ends) to red hot. Get off of it for awhile, so the heat can travel a bit to the center, then heat it again... Try not to get the rest too hot. It will get hot, but not red. Now, quench the bolt. A trickle of water, as much on the bolt as you can (both ends)... Keep the water on it, until it's cold (enough to put your tongue on). Douche it with penatrating oil... Now, thread the nut back on, about 3/4 of the way (backwards if it's a castle nut) and whap that*****er. The idea is to expand the bolt (when it's red) and it will push out against the walls of the axle and clevis holes. When you cool it, it shrinks quickly to smaller than it's original size. NEVER try to drive anything out when it's hot. That's the biggest mistake people make. When it's hot, it's not only expanded and MUCH tighter, but when you hit it, you mushroom it, on the end that you hit, and then it ain't NEVER goin' through that hole... Even striking one while it's cold can expand the visible part. The key, is understanding that metal shrinks, smaller than it was before you get it red, after it cools. The quicker you cool it, the quicker/further it shrinks. Never heat the nut, always the bolt... remember that, too. JOE
There is a bit of rust in there so it will take some time. Ill try the heating of the straight axle...That is what I was doing, but not quenching it w/ oil. Ill try it tomarrow night... Maybe my swolen hand will be down by then... Damn Im an idiot
Ahh, it takes me back, I'm glad we werent the only ones that faced a mamoth effort to remove one friggin bolt! I have the same combo on my rod. I cut of the front spring hanger and eventually turned them into top shock mounts...I'll try and dig up a photo for you! Adam F AKA PaintNoPrep.
ha ha... hot rod hazing via rusty old***** i believe you be an official member now...seriously if you got a compressor the air hammer works******in, saves on hands too
Ill remember that, I pounded my hand w/ a 2lb. sledge last night about 4 times. The damn chisle kept moving on me. Just from that experience, makes me REALLY want a press for the garage
yah i just use a cheep-o airhammer (i think it was like 20 bux) and the punch end after i heat the axle good and hot i lean on the air hammer with most my weight and bam, its out. its almost like you have to show it whos boss and scare it
two things: 1. about cutting the spring perch off of the end of the 'bones check out this thread: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB1&Number=145568&Forum=All_Forums&Words="I%20cleaned%20up%20the%20casting%20flash"&Match=Entire%20Phrase&Searchpage=0&Limit=25&Old=allposts&Main=145568&Search=true#Post145568 2. never hold a punch or chisel with your hand. that's what they make vise grips for.
I did a set of 40s last week, first one came out with gentle pound with a drift and a 10 lb sledge for about 15 minutes, the second one took a week soaking in PB blaster, then 15 minues with the drift/10 llb sledge. No heat. Now my 46 was a different story, I tried drilling then heating. Finally had to drill through the entire bolt and chisel out the pieces that were left in the axle, it was ugly. I'd go with the PB Blaster and time.
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