I have a low mileage 401 nailhead that I have been saving for the next project and I ran across a 50 sedan delivery that would make a sweet company car for hauling our insulation and stuff to swap meets. Does anyone have any info on this swap? Like is there a problem with pan clearance, will the steering column have to be relocated, is there room without recessing the firewall? I know that the ribs on the firewall will have to go first just looking to learn from someone elses experience before jumping in.
Heres some pictures of one that was done locally in the Inland Empire. A very neat installation. Hope this helps.
I just got off the phone with my friend Ron who built a bunch of these around 1960. He said it was real easy back then as J.C. Whitney had motor mounts and he ordered the bellhousing from the local speed shop. He said to use the 53 54 trans as the earlier ones did not have the roller bearing cluster and would not hold up at all. You have to alter [beat in] the firewall. The biggest problem was clearing the steering, he made a header for that side as he said he could never find a stock manifold that would work.
The one in the pics appears to have altered firewall, inner fenders and a later model column (possible Chevy van) (and guessing here but due to joint and rod angle, r&p) possible late model front clip? Been a while since I've looked at one, is that upper A-arm stock?
...I could be wrong, but wasn't that car featured in R&C awhile back?...maybe it was another car that color,...I'll take a look for that article....
The nailhead is such a great looking engine. Next to a Cobraized 289 it's my favorite engine for appearence.
I jumped in with both feet today. First thing I did was to take a sawsall to the emergency brake bracket and ****** xmember and removed the e-brake handle and rod. Set the nailhead in as far as it would go to survey the situation then pulled it back out and got out the torch. Man I wish I had a plasma cutter. I'll have to clean up the nasty cutting later. Cut off some of the ribs on the firewall, some of the body mount bracing, took the shifter mechanism off of the column, and removed the brake cylinder and pedal ***embly. I wanted to use the original brake pedal but it interferes with the cylinder head. Guess I'll have to put in a hanging pedal. Steering box clearance if ideal with the stock left side exhaust manifold. Right side is a problem. I need a different manifold that dumps farther forward, or tucks in like the driver side does. Anyone have any ideas on this? Pan clearance is adequate, about 1/2" between the tie rods and the pan. There is some interference between the drag link and starter. Likes about 1/2" reaching full lock when turning left. Probably just live with that. I'll weld some plates on to the remaining stubs where I cut out the ****** x-member, install another x-member farther back and connect the two via the plates to retain the strength the stock x-member gave to the braces that ran forward attaching to the frame. Overall I'm very please with how its coming together with the exception of loosing the stock brake pedal.
I stuffed a 322 into a 47 Chev back in 61 and wish I had taken some notes. It was tight, but there wasn't anything so complex that it stopped a determined 18 year old from doing it in the back yard. ( with some help from my bosses at the welding supply store ) You have already encountered some of the things I remember being a problem, but I do remember that I was able to use both stock exhaust manifolds with no problem. Maybe the older manifold is tighter. Another possibility, is that you have the engine sitting a little lower than I had mine. I used the stock Buick mounts welded into the Chevy frame. I used a Buick 3 spd and also replaced the Chevy rearend with the Buick. I was able to keep the stock brake and clutch pedal, but I remember that there was a problem that required that I change the angle of the pedal. I also remember that because of the change in the angle of the clutch pedal, that I needed a really strong left leg. Installing the battery was another problem. I solved this by changing to a narrow 12 volt battery that the battery shop located for me. I cut a notch in right inner fender as close to the firewall as possible to hold the battery. Sorry, I don't remember more, but that was a lot of years ago. I drove that car ( hard ) for many years. Bob
Bob, the 322's are a narrower engine so there probably was more room for the manifolds. From searching I found that the 364 right side manifold is supposed to dump farther forward but I cant find a picture of one by searching....yet. I went out for a few more hours this evening and drilled some holes in the spring pad on the 78 camaro rear end that I'm going to use and got it bolted in. Its a roller again. Next step will be building motor mounts. If worse somes to worse I will cut off the part of the front body mount that extends inside the frame rail so the manifold will clear, then do some bracing on the body in that area to add some strength to it.
that funky steering is the pits. you have to steer those cars lock to lock and see where the steering will interfere with just about any manifold. if they dump out the back the brake pedal would hit. got any manifolds for those motors that dump out the front? my buddy just did a 350 in a 51 and thought he was ready for exhaust. if he put any pipe on the car with the manifolds he installed he would have only been able to make left turns. for your brake pedal.. what if you moved it over?
I ran across an article the other day where a guy used LT-1 manifolds off of a caprice and didnt have any clearance problems. If I can find it again I'll post a link here. I have considered moving the brake pedal and may go that route.
One of those just might work. That ebay seller must be nuts though. $199 buy it now and $99 shipping! I think I'll shop around a while.
He is nuts, we sold a whole damn '58 364 for $200 a while back. That orange '50 was in R&C, it was a centerfold spread car in fact, last year sometime if I remember right. edit: Oh yeah, it's 2009, so maybe it was in a 2007 issue. I really should organize my back issues so I can just go to the stack and find the one I want.
If you want the exhaust to dump out the front. Why dont you swap the manifolds left to right? Or just use a left manifold on the right? OldWolf
Here's an update on this project. I got a left hand manifold from a 364 in a '62 Lesabre, installed it on the right side of the 401 and solved the clearance problem in that area. Also I have installed stainless brake and fuel lines, installed '54 front brakes, installed dual master cylinder under the floor,installed a stock auto shifter from a '54 Belaire and hooked it up to the SP400, and hooked up the accelerator linkage using a pedal ***embly from a 64 chevy sedan. Spent several days s****ing cleaning and painting and heres what it looks like now. Engine should be back in for good this time.
It's looking good. That ought to make a freeway burner out of the old delivery. Good choice on the brew too, some of these guys can't handle real beer.
Ive made some real progress on the last couple of months. Installed a new master cylinder. ran all new stainless brake lines, upgraded to 54 brakes, built new trans cooler lines, got it all rewired, installed a new aluminum radiator and built a shroud, built a elect wiper motor from a jeep cherokee rear hatch wiper, and put some cheesy noodle on a poodle tail lights on it till I can find a pair of originals. It has graduated from roller to driver. Next stop, muffler shop. It could use some paint or at least some primer but I think I'll drive it in its current patina'd state for a while. After all, driving em is the fun part.
I LOVE IT!!! I am about to start on my 1951 sedan delivery... I was searching around here for inspiration, and found it... Hey... I'm in Keller, youre not that far away from me! Allen
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