Try a Hollander namual... that may tell you if they will fit. You shouldn't have any problem narrowing your existing a-arms as long as you keep the length ratio the same. Measure the center to center (ball joint to cross shaft/lower a-arm bushings). Calculate the ratio... the upper will be about 60% the length of the lower. As long as you keep that ratio when you shorten the arms you'll be OK. But you'll likely have to trim the spring pockets to get clearance for the spindles. Or bite the bullet and buy Fatman narrowed arms. This deal is one of the reasons I don't favor using a front clip from another car... you almost always clearance problems. Stock clips DO give you PS and a nice ride but there is always a trade-off.
ICE, they are bolt on...because they are EXACTLY the same.. I guess I did not make myself clearly understood in my last post. The s10 is narrower because the FRAME is narrower NOT the bolt on parts. You will not gain anything by bolting on the s10 stuff. Your choices come down to .... 1. narrow control arms. 2. different offset wheels. 3. cut and narrow your front clip. 4. change your front clip. good luck Dave
Probably not. If the arm fits but is narrower, it is not the same and therefore would not be an interchange. PLEASE DO NOT do this. This will cause problems trying to attain correct camber alignment. If you narrow the arms, take an equal amount of material from both upper and lower. I agree with the sentiments of the sub-frame. Never been a fan as it seems to have some major drawbacks and correct track width is just one of them. If you do decide to use the Fatman arms, please install them without the springs first and clearance the crossmember spring pocket so the upper ball joint does not get caught. I have seen first hand three different cars that went into full suspension rebound and the upper joint pocket "hung" under the spring pocket and would not return to ride height. Dis***embly was required to get the suspension back to normal and the outer edge of the spring pocket was trimmed to prevent it from happening again.
ECI sells sorter hubs that will narrow your hub to hub length by approx 2" They sell for 64-72 A body but not sure of your interchange. You can also look into adjustable upper arms that are sold by SPC? or SC&C that will ***ist in setting up without tons of shims. You can drop that stock frame quite low with no problems. Are you talking about now unable to get an alignment? I think you should explain what is going on a little better as 1.5" in suspension and maybe another 1.5 in spindle will drop that frame quite low and still get an alignment. That is 3" lower, how low did you go?? The question I have is if you had NO clearance issues before lowering how low did you go and where are the interference issues now? Not to get into the drop spindle debate but.... They are dirt cheap for your application and will lower without creating a need for control arm mods?
Will not fit, A body is completely different than G body. They may work fine for the uppers but still leaves the lowers to narrow. Because the fender covers the tire more, not a hard concept to understand. Dropped spindles do not narrow the track width. The tire interference is because the track is too wide to start with. So adding dropped spindles is moot to the situation.
Bumping for more ideas. Called Fatman ready to pull the trigger on narrowed control arms, then they tell me I have to buy their spindles and brakes to boot , that my original spindles and brakes won't work. SO...... looking for more ideas...
i have a 48 chevy that has a camaro /nova clip running stock 15x5 rims would like to bring the wheels in a little bit more do you have more info on this.alsowhat year make gm metric rotors will bolt up to my front end and bring my rims in ?
I dunno but if I was in the same situation and was happy with the set up and installation other than the width thing , with a body style like yours I would just widen the front fenders, would be a lot less work IMO than diggin into the front end seein how its already done. I doubt anyone would even notice the fenders being 1.5 inches wider. Just thought you would like to hear a different perspective on your problem, good luck which ever path you choose.
You could get the a-arms for now and see how things bolt up. If the stud tapers are the same as your spindles, you should be in. What ball joints do they take? Bob
Look to the roundy round industry. You can buy them cheap for a mid-sized GM with is what you cutl*** is.
Yes, lots of cl***es are using the metric ch***is. I've been out of the circle track scene for a while, but you should be able to Google up a source. Bob
1983 cutl*** is called metric or midsize metric ch***is for circle track guys. these ch***is are frequently used and have aftermarket tubular control arms available or narrowed stock control arms. I wouldnt suggest trying to make new, narrow and reinforce your old arms for width
Olds Toronado/Caddy Eldorado/Buick Rivera wheels might give you an offset that will clear without having to change anything.
YOW! That's true, but man, that is one "**** ugly" wheel, unless you can dream up a decent looking wheel disc / hubcap setup...................
you can get the arms your looking for from speedway,they offer them different sizes (circle track parts) the upper arms are 42.00 just need ball joints..lowers are i think 130 or so.. Mark..
The Jalopy Journal
