1952-59 Ford Navy fords build thread

hey everyone. This will be my thread to post my 54 customline progress. Car starts, runs and drives but the brakes are no good. So that’s where I start. I pulled the front hub and drums from the front. The hard lines are toast from rust and the PO twisting lines. Good thing is new flex lines, wheel cylinders, and master cylinder were included.I bought brake shoes but looks like the shoes are the same size, so I may return and look somewhere else although it does look like it would work. I bought a 25’ 3/16” poly armor hardline and awaiting on 3/8” fittings. I’ll double flare it myself. I just need to get brake hardware to finish it. Any suggestions would be great. Looking at the pictures you can see the p***enger side front was left with no material and scored the drum pretty bad. Anyone have suggestions in Southern California to turn the drum with the hub attached? I’d rather not take a swedge cutter to the drums.

 

Also, looks like the junction block was from a 55-57 thunderbird. The fitting from the block to the p***enger front is completely seized so I’m contemplating replacing it instead of messing with the fitting any longer, but NPD wants $60 https://www.npdlink.com/product/junction-block-brake-line-on-frame-distributes-fluid/167467

I will have to replace the tee in the rear I’m pretty positive as well. The bolt to the rear axle just spins so I will have to retap it when I drill it out. I guess that’s what happens When shortcuts are taken. I have found lots of jerry rigging which I will have to undo and make right. And PLENTY of patch work. Thank the lord for EMS as I think they cover all of my areas.

BUT one project at a time.

 

You might like to read this before you dig too deep into your '54 https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/self-adjusting-brakes-for-a-54.899224/ Sorry the pictures are no longer there due to a previous member's hissy fit. I think you might like this price better: https://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_mercury_late/rear-brake-line-fitting-ford-only.html When I did my dual master conversion I was able to find all the br*** fittings and adapters at Ace Hardware. Since we have no clue what city you are in it's hard to recommend a place to turn your drums. A lot of places will not turn them because of regulations regarding thickness and cars that old are not listed, I was able to get mine done at a Hispanic owned shop that has been around for years you might look for the same type of shops in your area.

 

The link for the self adjusting brakes did not work.

I WAS looking at doing a power and disc brake conversion from the likes of Wilwood but I figured it would be easier since I had most of the parts to just replace the stock set up and I wasn’t too keen on spending $1500 just yet as the patch work is pressing as I have found plenty of rot. Currently in Fontana but I’m willing to travel in Southern California. Thank you for the suggestions and I will look more into it and keep posted.

 

I just clicked on the link in your reply and it comes up, anyway to convert to self adjusting is easy you just need the hardware and self adjuster kits from a 1967-68 Mustang which uses the same brake shoes as the 1952-54 Ford cars. These are the Autozone part numbers: self adjuster kits front #2514 X 2,self adjuster kits rear #2515 X 2 the all in One Kits are Part # H7045 you need two of those total cost just under $30 the dual master cylinder is part # M1485. Here is a video showing the self adjusters. Your Front shoes are # 151's rear are #154's. https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=4&v=JBa2GS3MPHs

 

Dual master conversion

 

From the archives a little added discussion. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/tonight-i-am-not-happy.1103171/#post-12515347

 

You should be able to get the drums cut with the hubs on. Look for the oldest real parts house in the area. Self-adjusters for any 11" Ford. You can get a whole kit with them in it. Look for something like a '64 Galaxie set of adjusters since you are keeping the drums. You may have to knock out a plug towards the rear of the backing plates or drill a couple of holes and file the rest (or have a buddy in a machine shop..). The star wheel goes towards the rear, not the front like the OG manual adjusters.

 

you should be able to remove the line fitting from the block.if you have block off of car if you have a vice put the block in vise only tighten enough to hold then use a 6 point socket on fitting if rounded then use a good pair of vise grips.I have lost count of the ones I have done this way.the block is br*** the fitting steel so not like steel on steel simple trick is to try to tighten then loosen it will surprise you how it works I am attaching a picture of a 54 notice the little spring on the right if you still have 54 brake shoes and the eccentric nut and bolt on right that spring is part of the proper 54 set up.a shoe will sometimes come without the hole for spring simply measure and drill a hole for spring.they changed this in 55 I believe thank goodness to adjust brakes is a royal pain but work very good.excuse the mess I had a leaky cylinder

 

Minor Correction: The 1952-54 Ford cars have 10" drums so refer to the parts numbers I posted above. Also flare nut wrenches are your friend when working with brake lines http://www.searshometownstores.com/...0mzilbeNBPqS_DHXLQ5mJA2BNd45hccBoCJKkQAvD_BwE

 

Thank you everyone for the suggestions, I will look into all of it. I have line nut wrenches and some were incredibly difficult to take off even with them. The tee in the rear has the same issue but the bolt to the axel free spins so I can drill it out and be able to get to the fittings with the line wrench then.

 

Letting the fittings sit overnight with a good spray of PB Blaster can make things easier too.

 

Just a quick clarification that #154 are for the rear. I put them in online and it shows as front brakes?

 

My shoes came from Autozone 154 front,151' on the rear some Fords did have 11" rear brakes usually Ranch wagons but a few showed up on cars. https://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-traction-control/brake-shoes-rear In 1955 Ford went 11" brakes on cars. Over the years us Old Farts came to find out that old Henry Ford being frugal liked to use up old parts first.

 

What is a swedge cutter? The hub is nothing different then the hub built into a rotor. Anyone should be able to turn it with the hub on the drum. That being said, put it open side down on some concrete, put a 2x4 on top of the hub face and wack it with a sledge hammer a couple times. It will pop off the drum.

 

Yea that’s weird because putting in the part numbers for 151 and 154 shows both as front brakes, I’ll look to make sure everything is 10”

 

That is a swedge cutter. Unless I’m mistaken the studs are swedged or pressed in. BUT if I can shop around to gave them turned with the hub in place then that will make things easier for me. Thank you for the input. This forum has been lots of help for me as these fords are new to me.

 

what is that drum off does not look like off 52-54 with that key way.an older shop should be able to turn without removing hub I think.

 

You cut that drum with that hole saw and you will be throwing that drum in the garbage. The studs are pressed into the hub but not the drum. It is just rusted all together. Once apart and all cleaned up the drum and hub just slide together. No pressing involved.

 

A little update as I’ve been really busy with work and packing for a move, I’m finally getting these brakes done. With all the drums removed and watching the video in the link I was a little confused about the self adjusters. On the p***enger side the adjusting screws face the rear but drivers side face the front. So when installing the self adjusters I keep this configuration and mirror the video? Or are all the adjusters facing the rear of the vehicle? It sounds dumb, but I don’t want to make the mistake.

 

This is what I found. Looks like the p***enger side. I would ***ume the driver side is reversed. But if that’s the case than PO had it backwards. Can anyone shed light?

 

Btw not going to look the same because this is off a thunderbird, but the concept is the same

 

Got the brakes working but I need to replace the emergency brake cable. Took some time to give any update as I was in the middle of a move, preparing for our baby boy, and then this pandemic happened to give me some wrench time.

starting to undo a lot of work the PO has done. Looks like the PO disconnected the heater core and rerouted the hoses. The radiator had a crack in the tank and the hoses looked rotted. Pulled the radiator and inside the tank is rusted and water pump and water neck are rusted inside. Drained the fluids. And well...pictures attached.

new radiator is ordered and I’m looking at the water pump and water neck to replace with new hoses. I will definitely be flushing the system to see if any other **** has gotten in. Looks as though it just sat in water with minimal coolant. This is frustrating!

Has anyone used thermocure? And does it work? And is this something I’m going to have to tear down the engine? It hasn’t been driven but definitely started up and haven’t noticed any smoking or anything. Is it even worth it?

 

Are there any water pumps and thermostat housings that are interchangeable?

 

The 1954 is a stand alone year for both on p***enger cars the 239 that was in 1954-55 trucks won't interchange in a lot of cases guys order a water pump and they end up with the truck unit that won't fit. Best bet is to give this place a call http://arthurgouldrebuilders.com/ You can add that to the list as to why guys will replace the 239 with a later 272-292 because of parts availability.

 

Jeff is right off the top of my head the 54 is 4" whereas the 272 (55up) is 5"

 

I sent a question to Y-block Guru asking if a switch to a later timing cover and pump would be a better solution.

 

I’m picking up the new radiator on Monday, so I pulled the core support to prep tomorrow and paint. I pulled the water pump/fan/pulley and will clean that up. The impeller moves and doesn’t stick but man is it rusty. I stripped the pulley of its paint and cleaned it up and polished it. It’s no professional job but it beats all the crud that was on it. I also pulled the thermostat housing cleaned it up and painted it with High temp silver paint and clear coat.

the whole engine needs to be degreased bad.

There is all kinds of stuff built up on it. I’m sure this thing was sitting in a field for a while wasting away, so I’m doing what I can without tearing down the motor and building it back up. Here’s some pictures. I’ll get some more in the morning.

 

Rad support painted

 

Fan and water pump pulley cleaned up