Technical Need advice about calipers that don't release well, please

Very helpful. I'm looking at an image of a rebuild kit for my master cylinder and I do see the hexagon-shaped metal part you mentioned, so it does have a residual valve set up. To be certain, are you suggesting removing only the rubber flap, or the entire metal hexagonal piece with the rubber flap? I'd like as much info going in as possible because the MC was a real chore to install and I'm hoping not to do it too many times.

 

I forgot to mention, it looks to me like the orientation of those calipers would make it impossible to bleed all the air out; the bleeders are not drawing from the uppermost part of the cylinder. I'm guessing you had them unbolted and vertical when bleeding? I'm not suggesting this has anything to do with the dragging problem.

Chris

 

Cool, was thinking it was done longer ago.

 

I bought a power MC and the rod didn't go all the way back. Had to put a 1/8" spacer between the MC and booster.

 

You would remove the entire piece and put it all back together. And then you could add a in line 10PSI residual valve for the rear brakes if you need them. I personally did this on my 64 El Camino After I added disc brakes. The calipers would hang up.So I removed the residual valve and everything was great. I later converted to a dual chamber and power brakes.

 

I'd do the dual chamber now & be done with it .

 

Agreed, originality has gone out the window with the Calipers anyways, so why not go the whole way to a 'modern' braking system.