Technical Need advice of how to correct the door gap.

Fishyeye pics?









I’ll just assume that pic is half right
More wheeling in the area of the dip
Less wheeling in the places high
Wheel mostly long wise front to back with curved track marks

 

Wow! Thankfully the only things that are acutally on the panel are the down on the ends. I shrunk the short ends. I recall seeing Lazze use his deep shrinker to shape something similar. Gotta get me a deep shrinker.

31Vicky how is your shrinker working out for you? Kaka makes a 8" deep shrinker which looks exactly like the Baliegh MSS-16 for $469. Figure I can get two for the price of the Baliegh MSS-16F. Any benefit to the new oval quick release jaws ? Is it easy enough to swap jaws that one machine isn't inconvenient? Does it move more metal than the old type jaws? Plan on doing the roof filler next and I want to be prepared.

 

Root around on alibaba .com and you’ll see what’s up with those machines.
Lazzie Has a good tutorial on what to do to those jaws. In my build thread I went thru the machine and the mechanism. I like the machine and does a great job. It does move a lot of metal and you can overpower the stand. The dies are not difficult to change but so far only once or twice Have i wished for another unit so I didn’t have to change them.
In a stretch mode it Will literally tear things apart on edge if you choose to. In a shrink mode it’s compressing the metal, shrink enough and the metal thickness will increase beyond the capacity of the machine. At that point need to flap wheel the sickness growth off of the peace then shrink some more.

If you had it there,,, you can take your patch shrink around the perimeter deep and reach in and stretch it in the middle then wheel it smooth. Like lazzie says with hand gestures “we going to stretch it most here and then less and less and less and less “ as he moves towards the edge.

 

So I went after it again after work. Made some good progress after I had an epiphany based on what 31Vicky said about shaping/moving the metal. He showed me how to wheel the metal in an arc to induce a three dimensional movement. I couldn't visualize it in my mind. What can a New Yorker relate to regarding rolling/pushing/shaping a media then it hit me. Pizza dough! I've of course made a few and the theories are relatable. It was going good until, dun dun daahhh ! I went too far. The panel now has too much crown and too much side bow. I think I may put the flat wheel on the English wheel and lightly wheel the panel upside down to flatten it out some. I put the whooptydooswoon eyebrow on by tipping the panel in the bead roller. Used the wide ball then a 3/8" roller. It's near but still too far. Gonna roll it higher with the ball on a flat steel roller then raise it using a soft lower wheel. All in all I'm getting better and learning with every mistake but I'm growing impatient. Gotta get me a deep throat shrinker. I think if I had one it would allow me to shrink the sides and ends to gain a result much faster and possibly easier. I think tomorrow I'll finish the roof bracing while I think about how to improve my patch.

 

I'm impressed! Keep at it!

Chris

 

Looks really damn nice !!!
A shrinking disk makes easy work of slight over wheeled. Also it’s a really deep shrinker just not powerhouse.
Hopefully in that spot marked crown, there aren’t ant tracking marks in that area.
There’s two ways to look at that
First is that is your baseline spot and everything else needs to be stretched out juuuuust right under the wheel. (Lazzie says “ and less and less and less and less as he moves his hand closer to that area)
Second way is that area needs shrunk some so the other areas don’t need stretched under the wheel as much. Then The small corridor between, where shrinks stop and wheel stretch stops is your baseline.

Wonder how # 3 patch comes out

 

Not done abusing patch #2 yet

 

This is where I'm starting from today. I cut 2" off the back and now the fit looks good to my crossed eyes. Now I'm gonna sick the shrinking disc on the crown and see what damage I can do.

 

Here's where I'm finishing the day. Patch #3 is on deck. In my very unskilled opinion I really think I need a deep shrinker. I'm starting to understand how the metal moves but I don't see anyway to do this in my time frame without a deep shrinker. I'm off to KFC for a high quality nutritious meal for an exception value. Maybe I'll find the $1,100 I need for the shrinker on the ground.

 

Patch #3 : The Beginning
Starring
Sheat Metall
English Wheeler

Special Guest Star
Lacking Skilz

 

produced by: Lernon How
go man go, it is going to work.

 

Maybe you should tack the best failed panel on the car and work it from there. Probably a lot more stable to work on.

Sent from my SM-T350 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

I discovered a couple new ways to get more out of my shrinker. I was pushing the metal all the way in the jaws even though there were no marks at the edge. So I started shrinking in the middle of the jaws. It made a huge difference. Seems the metal wants to bend/shrink on the edge. I avoided the crown of patch #2 by marking off that area so I wouldn't over work it. In that area I only rolled front to back to gain create some dome. Last panel I over wheeled that area in all directions. Going in only one direction made all the difference. Decided to stop before disaster. Need to figure out how to tighten up these gaps.

 

Your doing good, you might post some of your pictures and questions on this thread. Some of these other guys might have missed your thread because of the title.
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/index.php?threads/294590/

Sent from my SM-G900V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

This one?

Wheel a little bit like this
Just go slow and check it often.


You could maybe put your rubber band back on any that will just roll it over a bit without adding any dome. Again go slow and check often. Perhaps your knee to pull it around a little bit.

 

Put the rubber on the wheel and did some gentle rolling. Result was very good. Thanks again 31Vicky. I thinking I'm there. Tomorrow I'll roll out the whoopdeedoo eyebrow. I feel the need to practice on few pieces before I risk the life of patch #3.

 

Cut some more of the existing roof out,
See how it blends in ,

On this pic it appears you need a bit more rise on the green which will lower the red .


I use a piece of oak door stop or a 4’ straight edge that’s soft and springy to lay flat on my curves. They should touch 100% on these cars just about anywhere you put them.

Considering the angle of the pic, the low spot may need to be lateral coming towards the door as well as up. How you track it will dictate how it moves.

When using the shrining disc the metal moves away from the side you’re working. It will lower high spots. (Read this twice because it’s confusing words) If you flip the patch over and run the disc on the bottom of the top side low spot it will raise it.

 

How’s it going?

 

I cut back some of the roof to check the fit. Gonna roll the whoopdiedoo for the eyebrow so the patch can sit where it needs to. Maybe I'll do that tonight. Haven't done much this week. I'm only 56 but my innerds are 70+. Pressure, prostate, sciatica and headaches encourage my inner master procrastinator. Doesn't take much nowadays as I find working when angry or discomfort increases my ability to make very bad decisions. I also have my first grandson at home. Only six weeks old and he's telling already me customs shouldn't have a California rake, that true customs are tail draggers. I hate it when kids are right .

 

For what it's worth....I'm very impressed with what you have accomplished to get to this point. Hat tip to you. A hat tip to 31Vicky also, for the great input.

 

Friday Night at the Movies . Oh how I long the good old days. So today's feature is trimming my lower edge and rolling the whoopfiedoo eyebrow on the ball with the soft lower wheel. Stay tuned to see what happens next on this action packed adventure.

 

Each step is a step closer to success ! Step one was use a welding rod to establish the curve I need then followed it up with a 3/16" rod that be the edge of the eyebrow.

 

Started laying out the roll for the whoopdiedoo . Using measurements from the other side as this side was all mangled. First set of rolls flattened out some of the curve and moved the metal to towards the eyebrow. Gonna trim it back a little and try again. Used the welding rod to guestimate the arc but it seems I need to go higher as this change causes in two dimensions.
I've got to remove some of the overhang. My goal is to weld the roof patch to the rod an the 2 o'clock position so I can utilize it's perfect rounded side. Gotta roll a bit on the lower back and maybe shring the edge a touch. I'll try wheeling first.

 

I tried and tried and tried and just couldn’t get it.
I made the whoopdioowatergo in another piece
I seamed it right here.


It’s not perfect metal finish and will need some mud, but only about about 1-1/2” wide . Now The turn on the eyebrow is perfect, the gap is perfect and the roof is near perfect. No mud on the edges. I plowed all of that hard shit to do into the crotch of the whoppdidoo
When I formed the eye brow I bent it on a brake, just a little over 90. I shrunk the bottom to follow the curve front to back( bottom view) Then stretched the profile curve to match the door (that side view curve.) Then beat the 90 over some more and had a really twisted mess. Next step was to then shrink everything I stretched to get the edge to turn back up to that crotch for the whoopdydo.

Soooo on the up side of the whoop you’re rolling , that metal needs to shrink. Then coming off the roof at 1/2 way thru the curve everything needs stretched. If you can get the shrinks just right and the stretches just right it will lay down on your door gap rod and have a nice compound curve in the roof.

 

Gonna try light wheeling with the rubber band in this pattern.

For the record the pics are fish eyed. Rubbing my hand over it feels pretty even and mostly smooth with only one bump and I'll deal with him later

 

Here's my uncle brother best friend Melvin. At 82 he's 26 years older than I and has had the same/only one hot rod turned home built custom for as long as I've been alive. Built in his back yard with his own two hands from the fabrication to the paint. I'm giving Melvin this shout because he's one of my greatest sources of inspiration. Some positive some negative. Lately he's been my greatest detractor. On this car he kept telling me to put some oak boards between body and frame then get a trowel and lay on a couple cans of Bondo on the roof. Man that twisted my sack something fierce but it also inspired me to push myself and try to do things better not faster. With each obstacle I overcame I sought his approval and still do. He's made me a better mechanic and person. He's my bestest and only bud. He's been to most shows from NYC to Florida and from the Atlantic to the Mississippi. Hoping to have my car ready so we can cruise to the Woodward Ave show next year.

Big thanks to 31Vicky and others who've helped. It's all deeply appreciated. Hope you guys will be there for me for my roof filler and tail panel fabrications.

 

Glad that you overcame this. Interesting project and your work looks great!

 

So I'm gonna call this a wrap. I'm gonna use the torch to heat the ends and push them into place. Of course if there is someone out there who would rent me their deep shrinker I could shrink both ends and all would fit nice . I think I might relief cut the roof at the rear to get the patch and roof flow together. The patch isn't perfectly smooth but good enough for me. I can feel some tracking marks but I'm afraid I'll change the shape and ruin it. The whoopdiedoo is as close I'm ever gonna get. Melvin told me I'd have to make the whoopdiedoo in a separate strip because I'd never be able to roll the edge. I think it came out close enough. I wanted it to come in behind the rod to utilize its smooth flowing shape. After its welded in I'll spread some lead along that area to smooth things out same as I'll do along the roof filler. Tomorrow I'll finish the roof bracing and weld everything below the roof while I have access. Then I'll cut the roof for the butt weld.

 

All the time. Glad you Don't follow my advice.

Sent from my SM-T350 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

All the time!
That patch is gonna fly !!



Other side left to go.

The yellow English wheel obviously works. But does a hell of a lot better with some bracing to stop the flex.