Technical Need advice of how to correct the door gap.

Practice some more.
Are you using a foot pedal? I don’t use mine on sheet metal
If you’re practicing on the bench and the bench is acting as a backup heatsink then weld the patch with a back up heat sink. If you’re welding without a heatsink then practicing without a heat sink is what you want as well.

Just to get used to things while practicing ,,,
Turn the machine down so far that it’s just barely able to melt a puddle, so it Takes a few seconds too many to get a tack going without a heat sink. Take enough time to get a decent tack now that you can see .

Welding that heavy rod to the light gauge metal is going to be more involved. You’ll need a disproportionate amount of heat into the rod without melting the edge of the Sheetmetal away.

 

Getting better. The .040 electrode seems to be doing it for me. I made a heat sink to help fill the holes.

 

I am encouraged by your efforts. It is helping me overcome tigphobia. Now I last a bit longer before throwing in the towel. As far as using mig wire, I found on Trev's Blog that if you chuck the end of the mig wire onto a drill with the other end clamped to the vise and spin it a bit, it will straighten the curve out of the wire.

 

Yup, Trev's techniques works well. I bought some .035 wire off Amazon. Didnt cost much and is ready to go. I like Trev. He offers good and useful info.

 

I tried my new WP9 flex torch today. There's an amazing improvement in comfort this control. It almost like holding a pen. Next to buy is a 25' superflex hose. I managed to fill most gaps, cleco holes and burn thoughts. I find after 15 minutes of welding I start seeing spots. Maybe it's from LASIK I had done years back or maybe it's the solar flare up I get when I dip the electrode and pull it up.

 

You might want to up the shade or wear some UV rated sunglasses

 

I'm running at shade 10 and can barely see the puddle and I use a bright LED light to help me see. I am getting better though

 

IMO the smaller WP9 flex torch makes a big difference in how I can control and direct the puddle. I watched the Fabrication Series on YouTube where the guy said it was better to learn on the WP17 torch. I think he's wrong. Gonna fill in a few more holes and weld on the eyebrow. With the WP9 flex I can really get comfortable with a good view of the puddle.

 

Started welding and what do ya know ? I'm outta freakin gas. SOAB ! That 80ft tank ain't worth a darn. Gonna search Facebook and Craig's Lift for a bigger bottle.

 

you are probably going to have to rent the bigger tank.

 

Around here, bottles work pretty favorable if I’ve got a “141” bottle then I can trade it for a 141 of any gas I want. I can take back an empty argon and get C02, 80/20, 100 argon or oxygen or tri-mix just pay for the gas.

 

Pretty sure I can do that too as long as the valve is the same. What I dont like is paying $350 deposit for a bottle. I'll hunt for one locally. Hopefully I can find a bottle with argon in it. Really dont want to drive 100 miles for one.

 

Bent some fuel and trans lines. Couldn't finish because I ran out of line. Started making the shifter cable brackets then ran out of back. I'll get back on it tomorrow. Sucks to be too broke to buy gas but on the positive side I'm learning to work with what I've got and make all I can. God has blessed me.

 

Looks like good progress!

On the 'seeing spots' issue I wonder how much of that might be attributable to the use of the Pyrex lens? I've only ever used the typical ceramic cups with which you can only see as much tungsten is sticking out - does full sight of the bright glowing yellow / white tungsten through the Pyrex make things worse? I'd expect it could. Just a thought.

Chris

 

I've used the ceramic cups with the same result. Pretty sure it's an eye issue.

 

Found a couple empty helium bottles a couple miles from me for $90 each. Think I'll try to deal for two or three so I can have full bottles like bbq propane. Made my shift cable brackets. Because my shifter sits so far forward I can't use a shifter rod. I'm to pick up a bench seat this weekend once I get it in place I'll make a final decision on there the shifter will go. I dont want it close to the seat. Want room to sling my big foot to the side for stretching my long legs. I cut a door to access the master cylinder. Going to make a lip around the hole from the bottom so the door can sit on top secured my machine screws and rivnuts.

 

Holes can be filled... NICE work be proud of yourself for doing it.. And NOT be like them wannabe rodders and shopping the work out some where else with there deep pockets..

 

I like the flex head also but try not to bend that flex head
any more than needed for the job your doing. It's not hard to develope
cracks on the inner liner, and you wonder why your welds are starting to look
like crap. It won't take high amperage well either. Great for what your doing.
Rich

 

How did this finish up?

 

Well, I haven't TIG welding it all in as I went on to other tasks while I hunted a larger tank. Ironically after I welded the floors in the body moved/shifted and now the doors rub on both sides so now I'll have to start over. On a positive note the door gaps are tighter . I'll post pics after church. It's coming along nicely .

 

I have missed your post for a while, but I see that you are getting it done. I use copper for a heat sink and usually use a #6 cup. I have found that a pulse control works well but takes getting use too, but still like a foot pedal. Be sure to set the max. amps on the machine so you won't go past the amps on the foot control.
You have come a long way saving that car. Always admire someone who not afraid to take on a project like this. Just look how you have increased your skill level. And when your finished it you can say I built it my self. Frank

 

I did my fist chop with a stick welder .roof aint blown off yet ! when your poor you just gota find a way .that's hot rodding .when your up against a wall ,walk away a solution will come when your rested .anything can be done now if I could figure out how to get someone to clean up after me ! cars looking awesome by the way !!!

 

Doors rubbing ,,,,
Have you ever done much interior carpentry of hanging doors? In order for them to work correctly the hinge side is Square and the other edge is beveled with the leading edge being short. There’s a picture of the interior door and These cars are the same way.

So if you were to change an interior door around and hinge it the opposite way it will never work. The hinges on the bevel will pull the door into the jamb and the square edge will not clear in the swing.


On your doors,,, if you’re having a rubbing issue because of the hinge reversal just A little slice down the inside edge of the door and close up that kerf may be all you need. You’ll be putting that bevel onto the square edge.

 

My suggestion is change your mindset to "I'm going for a perfect fit", then even if it's not quite perfect, the results will be worth a bit more labor/time (if you try to fix more basic mistakes now).


I'd try to put some clear thoughts on finding out that it might save lots of time and frustration if you have to back up and do more cut/weld corrections now, instead of fighting harder in long run to come out with "just good enough".[/QUOTE]
what he said I always try for perfect . never happened yet ,but I always wonder how bad it would be if I hadn't tried

 

it looks like your work is great .sucks to try and fix someone elses shit . yeah . ?but very nice if you can pull it of .! and ratrods are so instyle so its all kool

 

I'm not worried by the dragging doors. My plan is to lower the front of the drivers door a touch via the hinges as it's a bit high there at the body line. If that isn't enough I'll cut a gap on the door and weld it to pull it closed. On the passengers door the rubbing is minimal but the door edge needs to be cut down as it wont close.

 

The floors are fully welded in. Next time I'll all grind off the galvanized as it sucks to weld on. Lots of ventilation was employed. Also made my seat pedestal. Melvin insisted I bend two pieces of 1/8" plate to make mounting plates like a park bench but I wanted something with a radius I could carpet for a finished look. I used 1" square thin wall tube I had left over from the 1969 442 resurrection. I dont have a square tube mandrel for my tubing bender so I made relief cuts on the inside to create a radius I liked. I think it worked well. There's no slider to adjust the seat. I used some drilled square tubing from HD and bolts for adjustment. I'm 6'4" so I have it set back where I like it. If I ever sell it the new owner simply u-bolts the top rack , move it forward and bolt it back down.
The seat is the 3rd row from a Suburban. Fits perfectly to me. It's got nicer cushion than the minivan seats. It fold flat and pivots forward/up for access under the seat. If the pedestal were hight it would stand straight up but now the seat touches the tunnel.

 

Started installing the Ron Francis harness kit. My first time installing a complete new harness. Not too bad. For me it's the routing that requires the most effort. The runs are nice and long with is good but it was unpleasant to route, realize a mistake, remove, repeat, realize again, repeat again. Put the fuse box behind the glove box with will have a fold down back panel for access when needed. I'm trying to keep things simple are reliable so I'm running a GM ignition module after a Ford factory electronic distributor. Finally got the engine running and am please to find it is just as promised. No noises or smoking. I replaced all the gaskets and installed a new oil pump. Mounted the battery in the trunk. Once I get the dash wired and am sure all is well I'll wrap the harness. Melvin gave me a cool heater to install. He has the same one I his car except its chrome. Gotta get a new heater core as it leaks. Using stock 1948 Mercury gauges except for the AMPS which will get its movement changed out for a volt movement. I plan on converting the clock to a tach the same way. Hoping I can find an early 50's vertical radio to fit the middle of the dash then build a fascia to encompass it in with the speedo/clock.
Continuing on my theme of mixing old and new for a/c I'm not using a normal belt driven compressor but an electric unit off a Prius or Leaf. I'll mount it in the trunk as far back as possible and upgrade to 3G alternator and second Optima battery. There will be a full partition a few inches behind the seat completely isolating the trunk area. Yeah, I know, big plans. Melvin says I dont need either heat or a/c since I won't drive it in the cold and don't harldy drive any of my antique fleet in the summer. Gonna do it anyway.

 

With heat and AC maybe you will drive it more! At least you will be able to drive it in comfort if you choose to drive it.

 

You might take a look at 1940's Plymouth radios, they have a vertical configuration, and that might be shared with all the Chrysler Corp cars of the time.