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Technical Need Advice on Mopar Flathead 6 New Setup

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by DOCWHIT, May 26, 2017.

  1. plym_46
    Joined: Sep 8, 2005
    Posts: 4,018

    plym_46
    Member
    from central NY

    Are those going to be you show or go air cleaners?? If those are the standard 4 inch paper elements, they will contribute to an over rich mixture. From experience, my engine went from 17 mpg with Carbone's up plugs to 19 / 20 mpg with nice gray brown plugs after ditching the small ones to a home made one covering both carbs with 6x10 x1 1/2 oval element. I have about 40k miles on a 12 year old rebuild of a 56 230. .030 overbore, stock camshaft, head milled .050, 2x Carter B1B on a Fenton intake. Running single exhaust stock 3 speed with 4.11 rear, 225 75 15 rear tires. I will be installing an r 10 overdrive in the spring. This will lower my cruising rpm from 3300 to about 2200 at 63-65 mph. My only problem with the Carters has been hot weather percolation and hot start issues related thereto. This was addressed by rerouting fuel lines, and lowering the floats 1/16ths from factory specs. The telltale for too high float is raw gas on the carb base at the throttle butterfly shaft. You will also want to assure you have a heat shield between the front header and fuel pump. Also important to synch the carbs to get throttles opening same time and same distance. When you get it up and running, do a vacuum gauge check of intake vacuum. Depending on your can you should 17 to 19 inches steady vacuum at 500 rpm. With my increased compression, I did my timing with the vacuum gauge and it sits at 5° BTDC at idle. Also I running AC 46 non resister plugs with stock 6v points ignition.
     
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  2. DOCWHIT
    Joined: May 25, 2017
    Posts: 160

    DOCWHIT
    Member

    Haven't got to run it yet. I'm installing fuel lines tomorrow. Still have a ways to go, but I will keep everyone posted. Once this is completed it will be a one of a kind... I've done some crazy things to her, so praying all the hard work & $$$ pay off!!!
     
  3. DOCWHIT
    Joined: May 25, 2017
    Posts: 160

    DOCWHIT
    Member

    I was hoping the air cleaners are go & show. Had them made by grace & Co. But I can't find a filters for them.
    Please explain or take a photo of this part I've list here. I'm sorta confused.
    ** From experience, my engine went from 17 mpg with Carbone's up plugs to 19 / 20 mpg with nice gray brown plugs after ditching the small ones**
    I'm keeping all this advice. I'm hoping not too many kinks to work out. George Asche Jr built the dual intake & carbs. Everything else new or rebuilt!
    "The raw gas at carb base" is a huge problem with my other 48' & 41' Plymouth's. Can you dumb it down a little for me on how to fix it? Thanks! Mike... When I'm more rested I'll be bugging you for more advice.
     
  4. rusty rocket
    Joined: Oct 30, 2011
    Posts: 5,226

    rusty rocket
    Member

    The motor sure looks good!
     
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  5. Latigo
    Joined: Mar 24, 2014
    Posts: 748

    Latigo
    Member

    Great discussion and a beautiful engine. I'm running a single Daytona carb. Works well but really don't have too many miles on it. Fooled around rebuilding Ball &Ball carbs and finally just bought the Daytona. Running a single carb and adding Langdon headers and distributor.
     
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  6. plym_46
    Joined: Sep 8, 2005
    Posts: 4,018

    plym_46
    Member
    from central NY

    [​IMG]
    With this style filter, had plugs running black and hard starting. I used the metal parts tops and bases, used some sheet metal and an element that covered both carbs and cobbled up a very inelegant piece. But with out other changes plugs cleaned up to proper running condition, and fuel usage went from 17 mpg to 19 (20+ on highway) . Yours at second look might flow fine with their larger element surface. Run it like you have it for 500 miles and read your plugs.

    As far as your other wet carb issues, lowering the floats creates more room for expansion in the float bowls. When the gas sits in a hot engine bay it expands, floods over, and might do it for several cycles if there is residual pressure inthe line between pump and carbs, then you are dealing with a raw fuel flooded manifold. If lowering the float doesn't address it you might have faulty or fouled needle and seats. If your carbs are just freshly rebuilt the float adjustment should take care of it.
     
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