I'm redoing the interior in my Roadster, and I need to glue some of the pieces in. It's not a steel car, and I need to glue the trim to the back of the body, where the tack strip would go on an original car. Also I will be gluing the side panels to the wood supports I put into the body. The panels are made out of Masonite. I'm thinking silicone adhesive. The first interior was held in with double sided tape, but those panels where made from door panel cardboard. That interior lasted 15 years. Any ideas on what else I could use? Here's a blurry picture of the piece I need to glue down. That's the old interior. Thanks, Dean
Landau (sp?) top glue. Spray/brush both sides, wait for it to be tacky, but not dry, then ***emble. Word of warning, make damn sure it is lined up where you want it.
I'm looking for the same adhesive advise, I have some interior panels in my '57 F100 that are sagging. I'm hoping there are adhesives available, I really don't want to make any extra holes from screws if I don't have to. Thanks, -DON-
what about polyurethane glue, gorilla glue water proof and sticks most things together messy to work with and expands the negatives. just a thought.
I've used the 3M line of spray glues. They are available at Home Depot in the paint department. About $20 per can. It goes pretty far per can. You can also use contact cement but it may bleed thru in some applications. Upholstery supply shops have adhesive in gallon cans that is designed to be applied thru a cheap spray gun. This is the stuff most trim shops use.
I'm using the 3M high strength glue from Lowe's for everything else. I want something stronger to hold the panels down. The Landau (sp?) top glue is something I hadn't thought of. I asked about silicone adhesive because that's what was used in the 36 3 window Street rodder did last year, or was it the year before, for the road tour car. The upholsterer used it to hold the wood into it that the interior was fastened to. Dean
Miami Corporation formerly Miami Rubber makes a type of clear contact cement that I swear by in most cases. Its nonstaining and offers a higher strength bond than any other product I've tried in the last fifteen years. It has a long set up time that allows the material to be adjusted several times if need be depending on the temperature, humidity, and thickness it is sprayed at to allow covering of complicated parts. On thin or light materials the trick is to "cob web" the glue lightly so it doesn't soak through. Its part number MC-5. PPG"s DX 330, or better yet RM's 900 will take off overspray on delicate parts, enamel reducer will work on anything else. If you are trying to upholster any type of part in one piece, design or bow headliner you may want to consider it. Its just like what the Big 3 used on the ***embly line. 3M Super 77 and other foam type adhesives work good for bonding simple single shot jobs but depending on experience can be used for almost anything. However the right contact cement can make a novice look like a pro since you have more than one shot at laying it out. The panels themselves I'd consider the Gorilla glue that was suggested, urethane or even Liquid Nails for the Masonite. Scuffing it down and using something from Duramix or LORD Fusor would keep it there forever. The silicone adhesive is a good idea if you think you may need to remove them.
This is what I ended up using. Loc***e Power Grab Instant Grab Exterior Heavy Duty Construction Adhesive. It's in a tube that fits the caulking gun. I had it on hand, and thought what the heck, I'll see if this works, and it did. It ****ed the Masonite down over the curves and it stayed there. I'll see what it's like tomorrow, but I think it will be fine. It should hold the side panels to the contour of the body too. They have "L" brackets to screw them to the floor also. I'll keep you posted. Thanks, Dean
I switch btween 3M high strenght 90 spray(very good for high heat applications(in sun)) and 3M 5200 fast cure marine adhesive(use this if u don't want it to ever come off w/out destroying it). goto 3M's site,5200 and the like doesn't stick well to some plastics,but when it does.... great-i see now that u found something,well,these might help others.let us know how it comes out.
Thanks, I use the 3M high strength 90 spray(very good for high heat applications(in sun) for all the foam and vinyl. Dean
You can even use weldwood contact cement found at most Sears type stores, OSH hardware etc. It brushes on and the piece can be removed later without harm.
3M is good ****..so far Ive had good things to say about it, If it is proplely applied and the right product for the right job.
Check out West System Products. They make a collidal sillica that you mix in with resin and it makes the best adhesive ever. You can bond wood to fibergl***, steel, almost anything, and its waterproof. Available at most boating stores. Jon
Seems like any 3M contact cement should work. I've used it on closed cell foam to masonite and then the vinyl to the foam. Be generous (especially at corners), let it tack up and press together.
Try 'mule hide' water based adhesive. It's made for roofing projects (rubber). I have some on my hands right now! It goes on white and when it's tacked just right, it goes clear. Not sure what all it works on (I'll eventually find out!), but it stuck the rubber to bricks and mortar and it's not letting go.
if you can find a 3M dealer, they have .035-050 thick 9690 adhesive on a roll. It will hold stronger than anything you've ever tried, but get it right the first time. Cause there aint a second time. I used to have access to it when I worked for an industrial screen printer.
The Loc***e Power Grab Instant Grab Exterior Heavy Duty Construction Adhesive seems to have done the job. Here's some pictures of the piece I glued down, along with the side panels. They will be getting a contrasting color insert between the trim. Thanks, Dean
3M 5200 sealer/adhesive . Comes in a tube like caulking ,sold st Home Depot or marine supply stores . Strongest adheive in the solar system and it remains flexible . Used to use it all the time in the boat yard for repairs and bedding blocks for through hull fittings . Just pray you never have to take whatever it is apart again
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