Just got the '40 chevy p/u moving under its own power again after quite awhile. Everything in the brake system is brand new with the exception of some hard lines we bent the first go round (new steel lines, not old '40 lines) we are getting some pretty major drips (now that I think about it I think they are both at the Speedway residual pressure valves we put in) and I'm ready to pull my hair out... Any tips or tricks to seal these up? I don't remember for certain but the leaks may be on ends that I flaired, not factory ones. Any ideas, this thing is SO close after a long time and I'm really getting anxious...thanks-
I hate to tell you this, but you are gonna have to take those fittings apart and inspect your flares. I bet you will find some imperfections on the mating surfaces. You may need to re-flare the lines, worst case you will have to replace the entire line. Take your time with the flaring tool and dont rush it. I know you are anxious to get motorvating, but if you lose your brakes... Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Hopefully you did a "double back" flare, whatever the hell you call it, by using a flaring tool with an insert to first force the end of the tubing inward, then when you flare it, it is folded in on itself. If you didn't do that, then your fittings may not be compressing your single flare. Just sayin....
Yep they are double flared, I tried not to crank down too tight with the flaring tool but I will pull them apart and check the flares...
Hey Dan, I hope this isn't your problem but I was finshing a brake system replacement recently and to ensure everything was right, bought new copper finished steel line from the local parts store, bent, cut and double flared to fit and had leaks. Upon close inspection I discovered my "premium" chinese tubing was splitting out the seam in shoulder of the flair. I built these pieces two more times with new tubing and finally gave up and cleaned up some old stuff I had in my parts pile to finally get the leaks to quit. Good luck!
Toss the ****py aluminum rpv's and buy good BR*** ECI ones. Also, anti seize on the threads makes them tighten better w/o blowing out the aluminum threads.
A lesson I learned the hard way is to put a drop of oil on the insert before forcing the second flare. It makes it a lot easier and the handle on the cheap tool doesn't bend.
I heard to use brake fluid as you don't won't Petro products near the brake system? I was curious about the speedboat valves but I'll check my flares first.
The more inverted flares I do, the more I like ISO bubbles. The female side has a cone, and that can get messed up too. Most of the time the cone is br***, a br*** insert inside the wheel cylinder and master. Check the rpv cones
Just got done chasing leaks too. One flare was cracked and as for the other leaks, I do not know what the deal was, the flares looked great. Very frustrating. I feel your pain!
I had problems with flares and fittings sealing on a build, and some were factory flares, some mine. I found in most cases I could break the fittings loose and re-tighten them and stopped the drips. I had some issues with my braided steel flex lines at the front wheels where they connected to the hard lines, and would give an occasional single drop of fluid on my front leaf spring. I had to tighten that line several times to finally get the occasional drip stopped.
best brake line I have bought at http://www.fedhillusa.com/ bens and flares real easy. Bought the fancy flare tool from Eastwood.
Had hell with mine until I bought a snap-on flare set used a little penetrating oil on the end before I flared it, and made sure they were perfect each time. The ****ty ebay tool I used the first go round just couldnt seal them up no matter what...
Dan doing your own double flares is tough without realy quality flaring tools. When I do my own flares I always use flare washers to insure against leaks. They are just a thin copper washer in the shape of the flare and come in all sizes. They install between the tube flare and the filling and act as sealing gasket. They should be available at any place that deals in hydraulic hoses and hard lines. Hope this helps.
If you are using new coated stuff that tube is really hard and will sometimes split. I like to run a countersink inside the tube to debur it this also helps to make it roll over.
That Cunifer tubing is interesting...apparently it isn't prone to cracking like plain old copper tubing? I think I should maybe upgrade my tools as well, so far people have mentioned Snap-On and Eastwood, any other ideas??
Sounds stupid, but you are mating 45* to 45* and not doing a 37*. Make sure your tool is for the correct degree.
Use it just one time and you'll be hooked ! It's like crack for a guy who does more than 1 line every 3 years. Don't know about Eastwood but most of there stuff is repackaged any way. Snapon is really good stuff almost always,
After doing a search it appears that Napa may carry the Cunifer tubing, anyone know if this is true??
Around here they all have coils in stock or in a couple hours. I'm certain napa carries it. And just recently have started seeing it hanging on the pre made rack it 10" - 72"lengths with SAE and metric fittings.
Once you get really pissed and you can swing it, you'll get one of these.....and be glad you did! They are so damn nice to use. They make it too easy. https://www.google.com/search?q=mas...parkplugs.com%2FAutomotive_Tools.html;281;300
Actually never heard that before Square and burr free is what I've heard for 40 years and been written since the first flare.
I have had problems with the flare splitting while forming them. What I found was my tubing cutter was work hardening the tube. I ended up cutting the tube with a power hacksaw, cleaning up with a small file, a drop of oil and then the cheap double flailing tool worked fine.
I'll double that, have use the cheap flaring tools for years, finally threw them away and bought this one. Works great every time, little pricy but well worth it.
I'm still using the flaring tool my dad handed down to me back in the 80's. Not sure how old it is before that, or what brand it is, but it works well. I've always found I got better flares with a clean cut, and dressed end. But I also use a drop of oil on the flaring tool so it doesn't have to work so hard to flare the tube. Makes almost every flare perfect, whereas without oil it occasionally does split or mess the flare up.
<center> Directly from the Fedhill website. Here's the link:http://www.fedhillusa.com/?page=tool directions1#tool directons1 007 Brake Line Flaring Tool Directions </center> <table align="right" border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" width="200"> <tbody><tr><td colspan="50%" align="center"> Prepared Tube End </td></tr></tbody></table> Step 1 Before cutting the tube make sure that it is perfectly straight where you are going to cut it. Cut the tube with a tubing cutter or fine tooth hacksaw. Prepare the end of the tube with a fine tooth flat file. First, file the end of the tube flat and square. Then deburr the inside of the tubing. Finally, file the outside corner of the tube at a 45 degree angle. Do not file to a sharp edge at the ID. If needed flatten the end again with the file.
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