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Need education on c-notching a frame...1954 Ford

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by desertdroog, Sep 16, 2003.

  1. desertdroog
    Joined: Nov 16, 2001
    Posts: 1,022

    desertdroog
    Member

    So, I am faced with not being able to drop the rear of my 54 Ford too far, lest I ride around bottomed out on the frame. So, my question is... how do I c-notch it?

    Is there a specific gauge of pipe I need to use? Is there a point of no return when I start cutting into the frame?(Can I go to far, like if the frame is 4 inches tall do I only go 2 inches into it or can I go more?)

    I have a Ford 8 inch that I am using and I have relocated the spring perches off my old 54 Rear onto this new 8 inch.

    Please help me from staying in a nosebleed stance.

     
  2. CharlieLed
    Joined: Feb 21, 2003
    Posts: 2,464

    CharlieLed
    Member

    There are some Tex Smith books that show how to "C" and "Z" frames. If you are asking about pipe gauge then you should pick up one of the books and read it. Nothing that I have seen done or read about uses pipe, all frame sections are fabricated using sheetmetal. The thing that is going to be your biggest problem is not the frame, it's all the other stuff that the third member can come in contact with after you allow it's travel to go up higher; floor pan and driveshaft tunnel are the two biggies....
     
  3. =mike=
    Joined: Mar 5, 2001
    Posts: 820

    =mike=
    Member

    we used a 5 inch drainpipe , and I dont know the thickness of it or any of the details but I think he got it from home depot [​IMG] just make sure you wled everything back up real solid and boxed up & stuff . the floor ( trunk under seat area , etc ) will all have to be tunneled to clear the driveshaft & rearend . it isnt TOO hard just make the welds solid & deep & stuff and you will be riding around like a caddilac in no time . . .
     
  4. desertdroog
    Joined: Nov 16, 2001
    Posts: 1,022

    desertdroog
    Member

    Thanks for the feedback guys!

    Where can I get these Tex Smith books?

     
  5. metalshapes
    Joined: Nov 18, 2002
    Posts: 11,130

    metalshapes
    Member

    Make sure you box the frame on the inside before you cut the lower part for the C notch, If you dont you turn your frame into a piece of angle iron in that spot ( no strength ) untill you weld it. About 2' total on each rail.
    If your frame is 4" tall, I would not cut more than about half of that, and 2" might not be enough improvement. In that case I would build a step in the frame ( just like the one you have seen in my Truck ).
    I use 1/8" plate and tubing with 1/8" wall thickness for most of my chassis work.
     
  6. CharlieLed
    Joined: Feb 21, 2003
    Posts: 2,464

    CharlieLed
    Member

    [ QUOTE ]
    Thanks for the feedback guys!

    Where can I get these Tex Smith books?



    [/ QUOTE ]

    Send me your email address and I'll send you a .pdf of the frame section in my book... CharlieLed@cox.net
     
  7. =mike=
    Joined: Mar 5, 2001
    Posts: 820

    =mike=
    Member

    [ QUOTE ]
    Thanks for the feedback guys!

    Where can I get these Tex Smith books?



    [/ QUOTE ]


    amazon.com


    for $13
     
  8. james
    Joined: May 18, 2001
    Posts: 1,064

    james
    Member

    this is the easy way-- look at these and just cut some out of flat stock. Weld on the side plates, then cut the old frame inside the notch, the box it all in. Always box the sides before you cut or the whole back will sag.
     

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